Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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QUOTE: Originally posted by Kutter Hello everyone, I'm new to this whole form thing so stick with me here. I have decided to rebuild my train layout after going to a railroad show and realizing that I was not very happy with what I have done and the operation of my layout. So my question is...What sort of lumber should I be using for my bench work? Should I use 1x2 or 1x4? Is this strong enough??? I've used 2x4 in the past and found them too big. Could someone help me out here please??? Thanks the new guy!!!
QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts Big boy, why not "L" girder? I am going to start on my benchwork after 3 years of planing and thought of using "L" girder. I would like to know your thoughts, I am 245#. To old to climb but will be leaning a lot.
Terry
QUOTE: Originally posted by TBat55 I use 1x3 and 1x4. When formed into an L-shaped corner like for a leg, both sides are almost the same width. Make sure you put leveling feet under each leg. Cheap leveler: T-nut plus a 2" PVC endcap with bolt (no wrench required). Better: furniture type nylon leveling feet.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005 QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts Big boy, why not "L" girder? I am going to start on my benchwork after 3 years of planing and thought of using "L" girder. I would like to know your thoughts, I am 245#. To old to climb but will be leaning a lot. Never liked L girder, always felt it was too light weight. Another hangup was it used a lot of fasteners to create the L, as well as lesser dimensional lumber, including 1x2's and 2x2's. Tried it in an HO club many years ago. One more problem with L girder, it doesn't travel well. I was able to salvage all of my lumber in each of my 3 moves. Some of it is 30 years old. L girder you use a chainsaw. Keep in mind I do 3 rail O, and some of the newer engines can weigh 10 or more pounds. I also use 3/4" ply with supports every 24" or less. This may be overkill for HO, but there is one advantage to the thicker plywood, and that is smoother vertical transitions. You can't bend it as sharply as thinner material. Of course if you are careful, you can make smooth transitions with 1/2" too. There is a section of my layout where I am using a center support system that is a little like L girder. The peninsula is 8' wide. The legs are set in 6" on both ends, but 7' is too wide for the 1x4. I installed a beam-like support made of 2x4's, for the 1x4's to rest on, then toe screwed them to it. The upper deck is supported in an interesting and unusual cantilever arrangement. You can see all of this pretty well in this photo. If you really want heavy benchwork, try 1x6's. I was in a 2 rail O club, and they did a similar style to what I'm doing, only with 1x6. We always joked about the "dancing elephants"[:0][swg].
QUOTE: Originally posted by JCasey Hi Kutter, [#welcome] While L girder is certainly an awesome technique for certain types of layouts, you never really said what type of layout you had in mind. I have offered up this cantilever benchwork idea before and it never seemed to be well received, but I still feel that it is a good benchwork technique for an "around the walls" type layout, and I figured it would give you another option to consider. It is simple, light weight, and super strong. I could walk on top of mine with no problem. Another advantage is that it gives you a lot of under bench storage shelf space. It uses 1 X 3 vertical and horizontals with 1 X 2 diagonal braces, and 1/2 " plywood on top. I got this concept from an article published by Lyle Strang on the MR web site. Have fun, I hope this helps. John
Joe from the Philly 'burbs Disclaimer: Any mention of any type of commercial or retail enterprise is presented for informational purposes only, and does not represent an endorsement. I have no significant financial interest in any of the named companies.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
QUOTE: Originally posted by dgwinup Big Boy, I love your post! 3 rail O scale, huge layout, walk-on capabilities, probably earthquake-proof, too! From an N scalers point of view, you've engineered a layout comparable to Cheyenne Mountain! I love it! I get a mental image of a big guy with John Henry-type arms, swinging huge hammers and driving 10" spikes with a single blow! And N scale-me, delicately placing a microscopic spike with a pair of tweezers and a magnifying glass! LOL (Big Boy, I hope you have a sense of humor!)[:D] N scale is so small and light, you could probably build a layout on laminated CARDBOARD! The differences between N scale and O scale are phenominal. What works for N scale would almost NEVER work for O scale. So back to Kutter's question. Use what makes sense to you and what you are comfortable with. If your layout is going to be moved, the suggestion from TBat55 about leveling legs is very good. On the other hand, if the layout won't be moved, I think Big Boy is right - build it level and be done with it. What you ultimately use will be dictated by the scale you model in and your skill level in your prefered construction methods. Over-engineering your layout base will not detract from your layout. Just like a house, your foundation is important to the longevity of your layout. Keep us all posted on your progress. Your biggest problem in model railroading (and this forum) is sorting through all the excellent advise you will receive. Have fun! Darrell, diminutively quiet...for now
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/