Cork on foam

[jacon12]

Ray, I'll give the utility blade a go on the ditches. I should like doing them since, for once in the hobby, I don't have to be so danged precise.
Andrew, thanks for your help. :)
Jarrell

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar

Ray - I wonder what I am doing wrong. Never had much luck getting paint to stick to silicon... I'll have to check what I used... Thanks for the tip...

Andrew

I think the real trick to painting silicone is my scenery methods: I'm none too skimpy on paint, flocking and glue!

[Anonymous]

Ray - I wonder what I am doing wrong. Never had much luck getting paint to stick to silicon... I'll have to check what I used... Thanks for the tip...

Andrew

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12
Then I'll practice ditch diggin' on each side of the roadbed. Anyone have a good way to dig them in the foam?

I've had good luck using a long blade utility knife with a SHARP blade. Just hold your hand at an angle and drag the blade alongside the track. Once the first cut's done, it's pretty easy to cut the far bank at a variety of angles, to conform with the surrounding terrain. Since foam is partially self-healing, the overlapping or wandering cut lines won't be noticeable once you scenic.

Some people form wire to shape and use a hot wire cutter, but I've found this method to be too slow and too precise for my purposes (railroad diagrams show the grade profile as an exact engineering project. Reality is a BIT different!)

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar

One advantage of latex over silicon is that latex is paintable. Handy if you are less than perfect with your application/clean-up. Like me... [;)]

Andrew

So's silicone if you're using latex paints. I spray painted, ballasted, brush-painted, and sceniced right over silicone caulk on my old layout without any problems (I was also using the silicone caulk as a gap-filler in the areas I was laying track, since I had it out)

[jacon12]

Much obliged for the advice. While trying to figure out the rest of my trackplan I'm going to practice 'gluing' cork to foam and track to cork. Then I'll practice ditch diggin' on each side of the roadbed. Anyone have a good way to dig them in the foam? Sereated kitchen knife maybe? Then I'll paint it and put down the ballast. THAT I know how to do. It would be a good time to try my hand at making rocks from molds and color them.
I may learn something yet.
Thanks
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

One advantage of latex over silicon is that latex is paintable. Handy if you are less than perfect with your application/clean-up. Like me... [;)]

Andrew

[orsonroy]

I've tried just about everything (wood glue, white glue, spray adhesive, contact cement, Liquid Nails, silicone caulk, latex caulk...) and I actually prefer SILICONE caulk for gluing down roadbed (but latex for gluing down the track). Silicone caulk grabs very well, and adds a sound-deadening layer between the track and layout base.

Latex caulk would be my second choice.

[rrinker]

Yup, plain old cheap latex caulk. Heck even if i used wood instead of foam for the base I'd use the caulk, having built plenty of layouts inthe past nailing the roadbed to the base, and nailing the track on top, I am a complete convert. NOTHIGN beats caulk, it's super easy and super fast. Draw out the entire roadbed path and you can fill that entire tabletop with roadbed in a single evening.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Paintable latex caulking of any sort (not just DAP) is suitable.

Andrew

[jacon12]

I think the best way to glue cork roadbed to a plywood base would be simple Dap caulking, but I'm not sure.
What would be the best way to secure cork roadbed to extruded foam, since you have to use something that is foam friendly? Maybe White Lightning for projects and foam?
Jarrell