Help Laying Track

[Bre2tSco2t]

My friends and I are building our second / ultimate layout. We have changed nearly all aspects of building this new layout since our first some 10 years ago. Open grid framework with Foam board, sculptamold, WS roadbed applied with adhesive caulk. This has been much improved, faster, and more enjoyable compared to version 1, until we started laying track.

Atlas HO code 83 NS 3 foot flex track. Presoldering two sections together for curve installation, with two sets of feeders, one per 3 foot section. Laying it with the adhesive calk and pins to hold the curves until dry. From our research this was the way to go. After trying it I am not so sure.

We are considering on the next sections leaving off the feeders until last. The trouble we are having is with the ties around the feeders and removing so many of them for the track to flex in the curve. Trying to add the next sections to some already laid and set in the adhesive caulk. It just doesn’t seem to be going well.

In what order do you lay your track, attach feeders, etc? What tips can you share to make this an easier task? Thank you in advance,[8D]

[Blind Bruce]

I too, am interested in what the "pros" have to say. I personally have just begun to lay the cork roadbed. Your point about soldering feeders last (but before ballast) is well taken. I didn't think of that. Lets see what others have to say.
BB

[Anonymous]

If you are complaining about the large gaps when connecting flex track, there is a remedy for this. Take the ties that you have removed, and sand the nail spike details off. Once they are smooth enough to slip under the rails, apply a dab of glue(if needed) and they'll fit snug under the rail, and hardly noticable. Hope this helps.

[Texas Zepher]

Try again - the form ate my last attempt.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bre2tSco2t
Atlas HO code 83 NS 3 foot flex track. Presoldering two sections together for curve installation, with two sets of feeders, one per 3 foot section. Laying it with the adhesive calk and pins to hold the curves until dry.

In what order do you lay your track, attach feeders, etc? What tips can you share to make this an easier task?

I have never in 35 years in any scale attached feeders before laying the track. Nor do I pre-solder two sections before laying the curve.

1. I usually start a curve and get it anchored on a straight section.
2. Once the straight section is dried and stiff I then bend the curve letting the sliddy rail extend beyond its ties. I always put the sliddy rail on the inside of the curve.
3. When the curve section is pinned into place I trim the "spikes" off and some of the tie itself under the stiff rail to make room for a rail joiner.
4. I join the stiff rail of the next section (who's ties have already been prepared in the same way). The sliddy rail of the new section is pulled out of the way and the rail of the original section is pushed into the molded spikes of the new section.
5. I lift the track slightly and put the adhesive under and then pin it down hard. (or if your quick and don't mind getting a bit of adhesive all over everything you could do this before you pin).
6. I pin the outside of the rail at the joint and bend the first part of the new piece into place.
7. As soon as all ties under the sliddy rail joint are where they are going to be, I pin that part down and let the rest of the section just go straight.
8. Check the radius.
9. Go back and solder the fixed rail joint.
10. Cut the "spikes" and top part of the ties off under where the rail joiner will be. (note here the joiner doesn't have to be as big as they are manufactured. I often cut them down to 3/4 size.) Slide the new joiner onto the original rail and then slide the rail from the new piece back down into it.
11. Pin the outside of the joint (which is the inside of the track).
12. finish laying most of the curve (leave the end for working with the next section).
13. Solder the joiner on the sliddy rail, and unpin.
Repeat for each section. With each section the slidy rail will be further displaced.

If done right there is no gap in the ties, and no need for fake thin ones, the joiners in the curve are never straight across from one another, and depending on the radius after the first joint there is enough separation in the breaks in the two rails that no place has both rails separated from its original ties. With code 100 track, people often can't even tell there is a joint, with the 83 it is more noticable.

This actually works better with sharper radius because the two joints move apart quicker. Because of that, for larger radius sometimes I'll start with uneven rails.

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bre2tSco2t

My friends and I are building our second / ultimate layout. We have changed nearly all aspects of building this new layout since our first some 10 years ago. Open grid framework with Foam board, sculptamold, WS roadbed applied with adhesive caulk. This has been much improved, faster, and more enjoyable compared to version 1, until we started laying track.

Atlas HO code 83 NS 3 foot flex track. Presoldering two sections together for curve installation, with two sets of feeders, one per 3 foot section. Laying it with the adhesive calk and pins to hold the curves until dry. From our research this was the way to go. After trying it I am not so sure.

We are considering on the next sections leaving off the feeders until last. The trouble we are having is with the ties around the feeders and removing so many of them for the track to flex in the curve. Trying to add the next sections to some already laid and set in the adhesive caulk. It just doesn’t seem to be going well.

In what order do you lay your track, attach feeders, etc? What tips can you share to make this an easier task? Thank you in advance,[8D]

You're doing it exactly the same way I am. But I am using a 30" minimum radius, so I don't seem to have to remove too many ties to get the joiners to fit when I curve the track. And for under the feeder replacement ties, I just take the ties I cut off and use a small round file to make a notch where the wire and solder go, they sort of them 'snap' in place under the track. The side NOT under a joiner needs a little filing too, with a flat file, after I nip the 'spike' detail off.
For attaching the next section to an already completed part, don't be afraid to lift up the already laid piece, and use a putty knife to put a fresh layer of caulk in place. Where it's a straight piece attaching to the already fasened track, I will drill holes for the feeder wiers, attach joiners to the end of the finished track, spread my caulk under the new area, and then slip in the nextpiece of track. That way it doesn't disturb what's already fastened down.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

1. Don't worry about missing ties, these can be replaced later. Start by turning over each piece of flex and cutting off a couple of ties from each end (save em' for later). This is easier to do on a flat workbench than on an already installed piece of track.

2. Lay out the curve on a board, put a piece of track on it and pu***he loose rail about 18" into the piece of flex track. Put the next piece on and pu***he loose rail of that piece through the ties until it meets the rail in the middle of the first section of track. You now have staggered joints. Bend the tracks to the proper radius. Adjust the rails again to be flush. mark and cut the ties under the moveable rail section. Cut the ties in half. only cut the side with the joiner off. leave the other side attached. apply rail joiners and solder the sections with the rails relatively straight. Use n scale joiners for code 83 (they fit and look better). Repeat process until curve is finished. For soldering tips see my post on page two of this thread:

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=2&TOPIC_ID=43789.

[randyaj]

I think that you are asking not about the joint itself but the feeder lines. I leave them off until the track is in place. If you solder them before it can have the tendecy to hinder the track from flexing in the point as easily and thus create a kink in the curve. Lay the track and then drill the holes in the right places and then apply the feeder lines.
Good luck
Randy Johnson

[dscott29]

I'm part of Bre2tSco2t's group. What about painting the track? Before installation or after? I've read tips about doing it either way. We had decided to wait until the track was down and the feeders were soldered on, but now we're re-thinking this. Any suggestions?

[rrinker]

I paint AFTER, simply because, any cutting and filign to size is going to knock the paint off, plus you do not want paint in any potential electrical contact areas. So you'd have to go back and touch up things anyway. With all track less than 2 feet from the edge of the benchwork, it's no big deal to run a brush along the web of the rail after it is in place.
I also found the step of wetting a rag with oil or WD40 and running it along the railhead prior to painting is unecessary. We are using Polly-S paints, and after it sets up for a few minutes, I just run a Bright Boy along the railheads and it scrapes right off.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I duse a similar method compared to Texas.

1. Lay the track ONE section at a time. Lay the first section with the slider on the inside of the curve. Trim the rails to length (even) and remove one or two ties.

2. Connect up the next track section after first removing one or two ties. Solder the joiners with the first section curved and the second section straight.

3. Curve the second section around the curve, trim to length, and repeat the process.

If you're installing a feeder on a track section, install it very close to the head end of the track, where you're soldering it to the first track section, that way there is minimal slippage at the feeder when the track is curved.

You should be able to install feeders without removing any ties, and install joiners without having to remove more than 2 ties on each end of each section of track.

Mark in Utah