Best way to attach Unitrack to foam securely, but not Rock hard permanent

[Anonymous]

Follow up question. I believe my Unitrack is very secure to the Woodland scenic risers and pink foam base. In order to give the track some float and thinking ahead, should I try to pry it up and re lay it using one of the suggested methods, or am I opening a big can of worms for no real reason, since I had no derailment problems before. I just notice the alignment difference by running my finger over it, it's very slight, but it is there. I don't want to break something thats not broke, but I'm at a standstill so If It's best to uproot the track, now is the time. Hope this question makes sense. Dave

[Anonymous]

You might could cut it off the risers with a course wound guitar string.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately about 70 % of my Unitrack is already held down, but I will be using much less adhesive on the remainder and in the future. I know I could get it all up if I had to, but I'm sure I would loose the Woodland Scenic Risers. I have to fight the urge to pull it all up, just because I can. That would be one of those headbanging moments later, becasue it did run very well before I moved. I could run a 13 car train for 2 hours un attended, come back and it was still running. I did float ( not glue down ) all of the turnouts, so thats a good thing. Thanks again, Dave

[Anonymous]

Dave, As I replied to you on another forum I use Aileens tacky glue.
I have just stripped 4# modules of Unitrack with only a spatular, and rebuilt them in another configuration, and no damage to track or foam.
This is the beaty of Unitrack being able to reuse without damage
Bill

[rrinker]

Sounds like it was silicon caulk to me, not from it being clear, but from how hard it was to remove. The latex caulk I use dries clear, but comes out of the tube white. About the only thing that won't come up in a reusable form with latex caulk is my woodland scenics foam roadbed. But the track comes off the roadbed with no damage to the track - Unitrack with the plastic base should come off even easier, and be easier to clean up, a little rubbing should lift off any bits of caulk that are still stuck to the plastic.

--Randy

[leighant]

I don't know about Unitrack-- but for where I want to glue something down, but not forever--- gluing materials such as plastic and foam, plastic to plywood, etc. I used plain old white glue such as Elmers(r). It makes a strong bond on porous materials like wood, paper, etc. but on non-porpous like plastic to foam, it makes a bond that pops off easily, especially if only a little used.
I use it to secure plastic structures, etc. so that don't shake loose if I jar the train table, but I can reposition them if desired.

[orsonroy]

It sounds like you used silicone caulk, which REALLY holds stuff in place! I'd either go with latex, or use the silicone much more sparingly. Remember, you only need a THIN layer of any caulk to get it to work. We're talking two sheets of paper thin here...

And remember too, that while it's easIER to remove track with latex caulk, it's still going to be a bit of work to move ANY glued-down track. That's just the nature of the beast.

[Anonymous]

I've always read to use laytex caulk. Latex and Silicone are NOT the same.

[Medina1128]

My guess is that, because it was clear caulking, that you used the silicone caulking. And from the article that I've read the layer that you're supposed put down is really thin. I used pushpins to hold the track in place until the adhesive sets.

[selector]

In answer to your last question, a few dots would be much better, yes, but using pins is probably better. This might raise some eyebrows out there, but if track is pinned well, with a very few judiciously placed dabs of latex caulk, there is no real reason that it should move much, especially once it is ballasted and glued. For the pin heads, paint them ballast colour, or grey ,or rust, or black.

[Anonymous]

This is a follow up to my other question. I attached most of my Unitrack ( "N" ) to the Pink foam or Woodland Scenic Risers with Clear Caulking. I thought this would make it easy to remove if needed. Wrong, I have to slice through it with a Razor Knife and even then it's not easy. So should I use heat ? In the future should I use just maybe 3 dots of the stuff instead of a line of it ?

Thanks Again, Dave