Connecting Track on Modulars

[Anonymous]

My layout I am currently building is made up of several different modulars. I would like to know which way is the best way to connect track.
1.) Have the track go to the edge of the modular, and then connect the modulars directly at the edge using track joiners.
2.) Have a bit of an overlap on one side of each modular, so that the track joint is on solid ground on the adjacent modular.
3.) Have the tracks on the modulars end before the edge, and when connecting modulars, put a space peice inbetween.

If anyone needs more info, pictures, or descriptions, feel free to ask. Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous]

Saturn,

If this is going to be a permanent installation (i.e. it is modular only for moving once every several years) then I would say go with #1, but only actually cut the track when you need to remove the layotu.

If this is a truly modular layout that is to be assembled/disassembled/moved periodically (like for monthly meets), then go with #3. If you end your track with a short (~3") section of snap track set 3" back from the edge, then you can use a 6" section of snap track as your joiner. This is what we currently do at www.hotrak.ca

Hope that helps.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

#3 is what was recommended to me, but I just wanted to put it past you guys here. I guess it will be #3, because I attend periodicaly trains shows, and it will have to be moved up and out of its layout space. Thank you for the tips.

[cacole]

The NMRA standard for portable modular layouts calls for the track to end 4.5 inches from the edge so a 9" piece of snap track or rerailer can be used to bridge the gap as the modules are assembled.

But for one that you alone will ever use, it doesn't have to be this way -- whatever you find the easiest.

[Anonymous]

You raise a good point Cacole. I think I might a get 1 or 2 friends involved, so I'm probably going to need that 9" peice of snaptrack. Thanks.

[joeh19012]

I am in the process of building a sectional layout, so I appreciate all the advice here. Anyone want to chime in on the wisdom of placing either curved track or turnouts at the seams of a sectional layout? Note that this layout will be constructed of portable pieces that can fit through doorways when necessary, but is really meant as a "permanent" layout.

Thanks.

[dehusman]

On a modular layout the track connections is whatever the standards are for the modular system you are using. Typically on an HO system they use 9" sectional track sections and N scale uses a 5" section so the rail ends have to be perpendicular to the module end, properly spaced and end about 4.5" from the end in HO and 2.5" in N.

On a sectional layout I have seen good results using a 1-2" gap in the rails (you decide on the standard and make all joints the same) and using a 1-2" long piece of rail held in by rail joiners. I have also seen the filler pieces secured by putting a brass flat head screw under the end of the permanent rail so the permanent rail covers half the top of the screw, then the filler piece sits on the other half and both are soldered to the screw head. Very secure and electrically solid.

Dave H.

[nsfantodd]

I agree with everyone so far. If it is going to be a modular layout where it is not neccesarily connected in the same order or even withe the same modules then I would end the track at least 3" from the end.
However if your modules or sections will only connect with more of your layout sections, you might want to consider laying the track to the edge.
This looks better in my opinion.
This is a picture of my small layout. I laid my tracks to the edge and the joint is hardly visible. I was concerned, but so far it has worked well.
Any Time I move the sections, I screw a piece of 1"x4" across the end of the sections to protect the track ends.

Todd Templeton

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by joeh19012

I am in the process of building a sectional layout, so I appreciate all the advice here. Anyone want to chime in on the wisdom of placing either curved track or turnouts at the seams of a sectional layout?

I've done a layout that had a curve track section jump between the modules. It actually worked better than the straight . We could pin the back hinge (that hold the modules together) and fold the layout together with both ends of the curve having a better angle to the fixed track on either module.

One of the kids in our youth layout did a turnout jumper track. It worked ok, it was actually harder to get the splilt side of the turnout onto its tracks than it was to get the modules together. As one pulls the turnout off it spreads the fixed diverging tracks. We finally made short rail joiners for the diverging track that could be totally retracted.

Note both these applications were on modular layouts that are constantly being taken apart and put back together.

QUOTE:
Note that this layout will be constructed of portable pieces that can fit through doorways when necessary, but is really meant as a "permanent" layout.

Should be much less of a problem then.

[Anonymous]

You could look at the NTRAK website and see their preferred method, being a Unitrack user I use the 'expander' track with very good results.
Bill

[Anonymous]

You could look at the NTRAK website and see their preferred method, being a Unitrack user I use the 'expander' track with very good results.
Bill

[Anonymous]

My layout is more sectional than modular, as in it will be a layout designed more for moving to trainshows than interchanging with different modules everytime. However, the big question is, which one works more reliably - #1 or #3 ? And of course, thanks for the advice so far.

[Anonymous]

Duct Tape.[:)]

[Anonymous]

If the modules are going to be only attached to your module, and the same one each time, the job can be accomplished by running the track right to the end of the module. Do this such that when the mudules are connected there is less than 1/16" between the ends of the rails. The idea is to not join the rails at all. The power is carried in wires under the table, not thruogh the rails between modules. One thing this method requires is that the modules be algined by pins or some other permanent method. Does this work? The club I was in had a four section modular layout that we configured in that manner. It is very hard to convey this method with words only. The best part is it works like a charm. We moved this layout many times without having any problems. If anyone is really interested, please contact me directly. I will be happy to work with you to help you understand how it is done. It's not very complicated, just hard to explain without pictures. Ted Fuchs [e-mail]

[WM-skipper]

QUOTE: Originally posted by nsfantodd

I agree with everyone so far. If it is going to be a modular layout where it is not neccesarily connected in the same order or even withe the same modules then I would end the track at least 3" from the end.
However if your modules or sections will only connect with more of your layout sections, you might want to consider laying the track to the edge.
This looks better in my opinion.
This is a picture of my small layout. I laid my tracks to the edge and the joint is hardly visible. I was concerned, but so far it has worked well.
Any Time I move the sections, I screw a piece of 1"x4" across the end of the sections to protect the track ends.

I have seen several approaches to modular design, and here in north-central North Carolina (Raleigh-Durham area), there are at 3 different approaches at different clubs.

However, by far the best one I have seen is the local "Sipping and Switching Club of N.C." (http://www.mindspring.com/~gugliotta/) Their approach is to bring the rails exactly up to edge with extremely tight clearances for the rail position, height and so on, they don't even use joiners between modules!. They use a wooden peg system to join modules together, after being certified and tested against "standard" modules, an electrical connector on each side to provide the electrical connections (they use a standard 4-pin highway trailer connector), and DCC control of switches and so on. They even have steel-stamped templates for construction of module sides, and a drawing: http://www.mindspring.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://home.mindspring.com/~gugliotta/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/modtemp2.0.gif&target=tlx_new

If it were me, I would use 7-pin trailer connectors in order to provide not just rail power (original 4 pins: ground, main-A power, main-B power, branch-line power), but lighting power for combined nighttime operation among modules (2 pins: dimmed circuit for street and building lights, hot circuit for permanently powered items), and computer command addressing (1 pin: serial data from a computer, and an 8-sw DIP-switch for setting module address). The computer commands could be directed to a local module that runs block signalling indicators, pedestrian and vehicle traffic lighting (like cycling stoplights that change per time of day or day of week), operation of local or non-DCC track switches, sound effects and so on. A standard would have to be setup as to the maximum current draw each module can consume, and the maximum number of modules powered per zone, in order to calculate the proper guage of the module wiring. Say 9 or 12 volts DC at 250mA per module, 20 modules for 18-ga wire (=5 amps).

If you set an exact rail height above the joining pegs between modules, you can accomodate different rail heights (such as HO code 100 vs code 83) on different modules.

[Anonymous]

I am currently building a sectional layout and I belong to a group that has a sectional layout that is moved around and a regular bases. Both layouts have the track running right up to the edge of the section. The sections are connected to gether electrically under the sections with plugs. This method allows for the ballasting to be in place at all time and when setting up it isn't necessary to install any extra track between the sections. Most modular or sectional layouts that I see do not bother to ballast the inserted track sections and they are very noticable. This detracks from the look of what might be a very well done diorama. When moving the sections, a flat piece of plywood is fastened to the ends to protect the track ends. It is rare that we have tracks being torn up during any moves.

[exPalaceDog]

QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar
If this is a truly modular layout that is to be assembled/disassembled/moved periodically (like for monthly meets), then go with #3. If you end your track with a short (~3") section of snap track set 3" back from the edge, then you can use a 6" section of snap track as your joiner. This is what we currently do at www.hotrak.ca

That may offer an additional advantage, the 3" section can be used for a 2 1/2 bumper if the track does NOT continue on to the next modular.

Have fun

[der5997]

On my N Scale layout I have two "modules" and a fiddle yard where track has to be joined with removal in mind. for the fiddle yard i chose to use track joiners since I can slide them easily in that application. For the door nd window modules I rely on the carpentry to align the track, and don't use joiners.
Here's how a HO club layout in Nova Scotia handles the problem. Note the angled rail ends at the join.
www.railimages.com/albums/johnwood/adh.jpg I tried posting thepicture directly, but it insisted on being a thumbnaul despite my giving the correct code![banghead]

[joeh19012]

[^] Thanks for all the comments about "no joiners" and bringing the track up to the very edge of each section. This sounds like it will work well for me. None of my sections is standard in terms of size (or shape in some cases). I will also rely on the electrical connection between sections instead of the joiners.

Additionally, I decided to use carriage bolts to hold the sections together. The bolts accompli***he same things as the alignment pins or dowels, and hold the sections tightly together.

I am going to mount terminal strips (barrier terminal blocks) in each section, and the wires will run through holes bored through the sides of adjoining sections. The only trick is during construction, when everything has to be clamped in place and held together while the holes are drilled--but that's only once.

I'll find some sort of connectors somewhere--like Digikey. The trailer connector and other auto connectors mentioned sound like good ideas.

Thanks again, and as usual, further comment is always welcome. [8D]