Track holes

[Jetrock]

Airbrushing your track (wiping it off the rail tops, of course) will help disguise track nails, as well as reducing the visual effect of shiny-bright Code 100 rail (or Code 83 rail, etcetera) more than any other method. You can also remove the nails after airbrushing and ballasting and use the caulk method described above--then use a bit of the same-color paint to hide the caulk.

[2021]

Hey guys, thanks for all the comments. I did not take offense to gttr's comment and as a matter of fact found it quite humorous. I am not a new modeler and just happened to pay attention to those holes as I was finalizing my ballast and rail painting. P. Carrell was correct in assuming I'm just starting a 20'x15' layout and like the reliability (if not necessarily the size) of Code 100. I have several collector locos that do not run reliably on code 83 so I made this decision. Besides 90% of those viewing my layout will not be modelers so to them everything looks good.
Thanks again for the input.
Ron K.

[davekelly]

I think what gtrr was trying to say is that with trains running on the tracks, structures nearby etc, no one is going to notice the holes in the track.

[pcarrell]

gtirr,

Thats not a very nice way to build someone up.

Maybe he just hasn't progressed beyond this point yet and he just wants to get it right. Maybe thats why there isn't a lot of other things to look at on his layout yet. Maybe there's lots of things to look at on his layout, but this one thing is just bugging him.

As far as the code 100 goes, it can be made to look pretty good with some paint and and ballast. The biggest advantage, besides being available virtually anywhere, is that the stuff is bulletproof. To some people that is what is most important. There is alot to be said for absolutely trouble free operation.

The beauty of this hobby is its diversity.

I can appreciate someones compultion to strive for absolute fidelity in their modeling. I can also appreciate someones need for reliability in operations.

I would like to suggest that we encourage one another to strive for excellence in whatever angle we persue this hobby from. That will build the hobby as a whole, not splinter it from within.

I'm hoping that you didn't mean to come off in a bad light and that your wording could have been better to convey what you really meant to say.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that we all must concider the effects of the words we use, especially in a place like this forum where about all we have is words.

[IRONROOSTER]

I find the black track nails with thin head are not very noticable in the black ties.

Or maybe with my older eyesight I just can't see well enough to notice them [:D].

Enjoy
Paul

[cacole]

Get a black permanent marker like those used to write on a CD or DVD disk, and touch it to the head of every nail to darken it, and they will become nearly invisible.

Another option is to remove all of the nails after the caulk has set, rub a small amount of caulk into the holes to fill them in, then use the marker to darken the caulk after it has dried, but before you ballast.

Or you can use dark colored caulk. Home Depot has caulk in many different colors.

[Anonymous]

As bad as the code 100 track looks, I don't see where the tiny holes are going to make that much difference!!!!
Besides, if that's all there is to stare at on a model RR, it must be pretty bad!

[bn7026]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 2021

I don't like to leave those nails in the Atlas Code 100 ties after the ballasting is done. However, if you remove them you have those unsightly holes in the ties. What is the best way to address this problem - leave in the nails and ignore them, or remove them and do what?
Ron K.

One solution is to not put the nails in the middle but where the real railroads put their spikes - on the rail itself. With a little care they can be almost invisible especially if placed on the side of the rail you don't normally see.

Another is one some guys around here use - water based contact cement. Test fit the track for location, pull it up, apply contact adhasive to the roadbed, press the track down to get glue on it, lift it up for a few minutes then place down and it's glued. You do need to have confidence in your track location with this method as you can't move it a lot when it's down, but if you really don't like it grab a paint scaper and pul it up and have another go.....

Tim

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

I saw a novel idea the other day on a website. The fellow raided his pantry for cans of food which he placed on the rails while they dried. He laid them down on their side and put them end to end on the rails to keep them in place. When, if I ever, get to that point I think I'll try it.
Jarrell

Neat, If you use beer cabs you can have a party to celbrate the track laying. ON 2nd thought the track will not be to straight after the 2nd 6 pack anyway, use food cans or water bottels.
Cheers![:D]

[jacon12]

I saw a novel idea the other day on a website. The fellow raided his pantry for cans of food which he placed on the rails while they dried. He laid them down on their side and put them end to end on the rails to keep them in place. When, if I ever, get to that point I think I'll try it.
Jarrell

[ukguy]

If you are going to paint/weather the ties anyway why not fill them before laying the track, with either caulk or spackling.

I presume you are tacking the track down to hold it in place while the caulk dries which is fixing it to the road bed. If you fill the holes use pushpins between the ties to hold the track in place.

If this is not an option fill the holes after the track pins are removed before painting, if you are not painting use a black marker to colour whatever filler material you use.

Have fun & be safe
Karl.

[2021]

I don't like to leave those nails in the Atlas Code 100 ties after the ballasting is done. However, if you remove them you have those unsightly holes in the ties. What is the best way to address this problem - leave in the nails and ignore them, or remove them and do what?
Ron K.