Ashesive for bonding metal to plastic

[Anonymous]

I'm building a portable layout that breaks down into two pieces. I came up with the idea of adding guardrail to the inside of the track at the places where I have to cut the rails to get the layout apart. What can I use to glue the guardrails in place?

Thanks
Mike

[JCasey]

Hi Mike,
I scratch built a long bridge out of aluminum angle and glued plastic girders to it with Gorilla Glue. It holds great, but one caution is that it foams as it cures, so you don't want to use too much. If it oozes out past the edges of your work it is difficult to remove after it cures. Check it out , it might work for your application. Hope this helps.
John

[Anonymous]

How permanent do you want it? If you want it there forever, unless you break it apart, try JB Weld. It's sandable, paintable, dries quickly, and you don't have to worry about foaming. Only drawback like I said is that it's permanent.

[tstage]

Mike,

CA or cyanoacrylic adhesive - sometimes referred to as "Crazy glue". You can pick up a bottle of it down at your LHS (local hobby shop). It comes in various thicknesses. I use the medium so it doesn't run. Like the JB Weld, it wll be permanent when it cures.

Tom

[Anonymous]

I will add this about the JB Weld.....not arguing with the others' suggestions, as they are great, too. JB Weld does offer something the others do not. It is a two part epoxy. That means you mix the "steel" with the hardner. You can mix it so that it has some amount of flex, by using less hardner. Although it will still be permanent, it may tend to break or crack less over time. I've had great success with it in the past. The key is, you just have to know when NOT to use it.

[ARTHILL]

E6000 will work. It takes a whiie to cure but is not two part like epoxy. It is used by jewelry people which is where I found it. Its shelf life is less than a year so don't buy more than you need.