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Masonite backdrop - filling holes/seams/painting

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  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: Warren, MI
  • 89 posts
Masonite backdrop - filling holes/seams/painting
Posted by rfross on Sunday, July 17, 2005 9:25 AM
I accidentally posted this to another thread the other night rather than a standalone and I apologize to the originator of that thread.

I'm in the process of installing a 1/8" masonite backdrop. I countersunk the screws but in the process of drilling the countersunk holes it left a small ridge similiar to a volcano's crater. Does this sand down easily without destroying the smooth finish?

I'm using small #4 x 3/4" screws spaced approximately 8" apart to secure the masonite to the 1x2's in back so there won't be much to fill. And speaking of filling, what's the best choice for the screw holes and the seams between panels? Wood filler? Spackle? Something else?

When it comes to paint, does anyone have a recommendation for a primer or is a primer not necessary? I want to do it right and do it once and if it means priming that's no big deal because I'd rather get it done and out of the way instead of having to go back and fix it later.
Modeling the Ballard Terminal Railroad (a former Northern Pacific line) in Ballard, a district north of downtown Seattle in 1968, on a two-rail O-scale shelf switching layout. The Ballard Terminal didn't exist in 1968 but my version of the BTRR is using NP power. (My avatar photo was taken by Doc Wightman of Seattle)
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: North Bend Wa
  • 71 posts
Posted by Tim_Seawel on Sunday, July 17, 2005 10:16 PM
Yes the countersunk holes sand down very nicely with a 300/400 grit sand paper. I left about an 1/8 inch gap between panels and filled this and the screw holes with drywall mud from Homedepot. I then primed it with 2coats of a flat white interior wall latex paint and then painted a coat of sky blue with a little of the white mixed in near the bottom of the backdrop.

[:D] Tim
View my railroad
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Sunday, July 17, 2005 10:40 PM
He's right. You have to take your time about backdrops and get it right. Once you have invested the time, determination, and patience, you will be very pleased with the overall effect. If the colours aren't great, start over, but no colour will hide a marred or sloppily finished surface.

One thing I found is that real clouds are virtually never 'white'. One or two drops of yellow in a liter of white paint will make a difference.
  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: Warren, MI
  • 89 posts
Posted by rfross on Monday, July 18, 2005 6:48 PM
I appreciate the tips so far - especially adding a little yellow to the white. That is something that I never would have considered. As far as the drywall mud goes I sure hope that I can find it in one pint sizes because I only have 100 screw holes to fill and three pretty tight seams.
Modeling the Ballard Terminal Railroad (a former Northern Pacific line) in Ballard, a district north of downtown Seattle in 1968, on a two-rail O-scale shelf switching layout. The Ballard Terminal didn't exist in 1968 but my version of the BTRR is using NP power. (My avatar photo was taken by Doc Wightman of Seattle)
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Northern Michigan LP
  • 79 posts
Posted by dickiee on Monday, July 18, 2005 6:54 PM
I had great success filling gaps and holes in Masonite with the Woodland Scenics Foam Putty. It dries faster than drywall mud and I think possibly might be less likely to crack, altho that remains to be seen. Good luck with whatever you use.

As to primer, I just used 2 coats of cheap latex wall paint, and it covered without any problems.
Just love to watch the trains run.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • 5 posts
Posted by akimmons on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:31 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Tim_Seawel

Yes the countersunk holes sand down very nicely with a 300/400 grit sand paper. I left about an 1/8 inch gap between panels and filled this and the screw holes with drywall mud from Homedepot. I then primed it with 2coats of a flat white interior wall latex paint and then painted a coat of sky blue with a little of the white mixed in near the bottom of the backdrop.

[:D] Tim


I'm using 1/8" Masonite for coved corners, butting up against drywall. I had planned to tape the joint with wallboard tape. Do you think that's necessary? Or is it OK to just fill the gap with mud and smooth? How have your joints held up?

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