Paint... is cheaper just as good?

[Anonymous]

The little square testors are not all gloss.

They will be labeled gloss or flat, and the only difference between the enamel and acrylic is the thinner.

I use these for 25mm metal figures, and I paint them unprimed with plain old regular testors brushes and details with a sewing pin. Here's one of my 25mm figures, to show you results with testors square bottles:



So if a 2.5cm tall figure with three coats of wal-mart spray gloss on top (the figures are used for gaming) can turn out this nice, you will have zero problems with the testors cheap bottles.

Another brand I'm fond of is Tamiya, especially the flat earthtones as a base.

You'll find that the testors flat black is quite flat, and the only testors to watch for are the flat whites and yellows - these have a tendency to "mottle" with additional coats.

So just read the label for gloss or flat. Also, the enamel square bottle metals can be extraordinarily good (especially silver chrome) for shiny details. They can even be buffed using soft tissue and can be very nice.

It's not the paint, it's how ya use it! [8D]

[Anonymous]

I've thinned craft paints with windshield washer,its part water,alcohol and detergent,probally about 60/40 , paint/washer,you'll have to adjust to what will work.Also strain mix thru screen(pantyhose works great),it keeps thicker pigment out of mix.And make sure to wash all plastics with dishsoap and let dry thoroughly,use latex gloves to handle,that should help with beading problem.

[oleirish]

Jarrell:
how is the work going on the train??have't seen any up dates for a while??You know PICTURES and the like?I'll bet you did'nt think there was so much to a lay out when you first started did ya!I can see the future[:O][:)]If you are new ask Jarrell[;)]
JIM

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ironpenguin

The instructions for the Bar Mills line of laser cut structures recommends using Wal-Mart auto primer gray for the primer on their kits. If it works for them...

I use a variety of paints, though rarely Testor's anymore. The Ceramcoat line of water soluble paints are my most common brand to use.

Mike Tennent

how do you thin the creamcoat for airbrush use? i have tried it a couple times, but it comes out like crap. the mix beads on structures. water, alcohol, thinner??? since it's a water based paint, i always used water, but, i dunno, maybe using too much???[?]

[roadrat]

The only paint I would look out for is the new stuff that is made for plastic, The pigment particles are huge and tend to coat over even large details.


bill

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

I was looking at Walmart's Testors the other day and some of the bottles are labeled enamel which I know would be a very high gloss. Others were simply labeled acrylic but it didn't say whether they were flat or satin or what. Anyone here know?
Jarrell

If you're talking about the little rectangular bottles, they're all high gloss. I'd stay away from them though; they're thick, hard to work with, and not worth messing with. Stick with craft paints for non-rolling stock needs, and one of the good name-brand hobby paints for rolling stock and engines (Polly Scale, Floquil, Modelflex, etc)

[rrinker]

Looking for some flat black to paint car weights? Walmart has a no-name brand of spray that comes in a flat black BIG can for 94 cents! Sure beats about $3 for a LITTLE can of Testor's. I actually used the Walmart stuff ont he entire underframe of the MDC caboose I built - it's a solid pieceof metal with 3 plastic brake parts, 2 plastic brake wheels, and metal railings. It didn't hurt that kind of plastic, and the spray itself was VERY fine.
Test first on regular styrene. They do have other colors, but not a lot of good 'railroady' ones.

--Randy

[jacon12]

I was looking at Walmart's Testors the other day and some of the bottles are labeled enamel which I know would be a very high gloss. Others were simply labeled acrylic but it didn't say whether they were flat or satin or what. Anyone here know?
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

cheap paints work great for structures,details,weathering,but only with brushes, I haven't found the right mix to work thru airbrush. When you can get three bottles for a buck,it beats $4 a bottle hobby paint, I just thin to what keeps it flowing,but not too loose.Places like A.C.Moore have sales all the time on the stuff, they usually have a good price on better brushes,get many sizes,you'll use them all

[Anonymous]

The instructions for the Bar Mills line of laser cut structures recommends using Wal-Mart auto primer gray for the primer on their kits. If it works for them...

I use a variety of paints, though rarely Testor's anymore. The Ceramcoat line of water soluble paints are my most common brand to use.

Mike Tennent

[RMax1]

I have had some weird experiences with paints. I bought a bunch of Athearn F bodies off of ebay for $1 a piece. Went into the garage and started to paint all kinds of things. One of them ended up Italian gloss red. Hmm that's different??? So I took it into the house and took a black marks a lot to the roof. Hmmmm ok?? What would happen if I shot it with dullcoat and weathered it??? Viola instant MKT F unit!!!! I use a lot of different combinations on structures . Paints and coloring mixed with India inks, marking pins and washes. I use Floquil for many things but will not hesitate to be creative. I have a new airbrush so I will be a little more cautious but a light dusting with a spray can will happen from time to time.

RMax1

[oleirish]

I don't know how many testors paints I've tossed because they dry up so fast.I use water based paints now and love them,easy to mix and match,clean up is a snap.I use MODEL MASTER water base.good slection of colors.I will not buy a cheap paint brush,I have a large selection of diffrent sizes of artest brushes.I don't think any thing will tick me off faster than hair comming of In my paint job .Cheap paint ok but good brushes a must!!!!![:D]I use latrex house paint for the train board or any foam on my lay out.
JIM

[2c]

[orsonroy]

Craft paints work great for just about everything except painting engines and rolling stock. I use them to paint almost all my structures, detail parts, some scenery and to weather equipment. Only one caveat: make sure the piece is primed first, as the craft paint really doesn't like to be applied evenly to a raw surface. I generally use plain old Krylon gray primer for everything.

I'll occasionally use Polly Scale for structures, especially reddish brick. The paint is a dream to brush paint (I also use it to airbrush, but it can be twitchy in that application), and you can more easily add subtle shading with one application that with craft paints. It is a lot more expensive to use in quantity though.

[Anonymous]

Jarell,

Buy the good stuff and forget about the cost. Hobby paints are a good deal and they last forever. One of the issues with paint is hiding ability and pigment particle size. Hobby paints use finely ground pigments and for the most part cover well. I run out of certain colors that I use a lot, but most bottles will probably dry out before they are used up. If you are painting large areas maybe it makes sense to shop around, but for most stuff, I don't see the point in spending the extra time.

My two cents,

[selector]

The experienced modelers will tell you to paint while the parts are still on the sprue, or at least before they are assembled. Less chance of swiping a white brush against a red door.

I have found those small plastic, pop-up lid bottles of acrylics available at Walmart to be quite useful. I diilute them VERY slightly, but if you are careful and patient, you can use them full strength...sparingly.

[cheese3]

Works fine for me. It is best to paint it while it is still on the plastic rods that hold the pieces together in the box I cannot think of what they are called, but yes before assembly

[randyaj]

I use a wide variety of paint, depending on the use. Of course if you are painting a locomotive or car, or a pickup you want a high quality paint. On model buildings I have used several different kinds of paint, I have found the oxide red primer found in hardware stores works well for structures, the primer gray does a good job of simulating concrete color. What ever you use make sure it is flat or satin, nothing makes a structure more toy-like than a nice glossy shinning finish. On wood structures I use a water based paint by Testors, its so great and brush cleanup is easy! Well enough rambling hope that answers your question
Randy Johnson

[leighant]

I am fairly satisfied with the bottle paints for brushing on plastic structures-- if you have the eye to mix the color you want and if you don't glop it on too thick. The aerosol sprays are okay if you can avoid getting too thick, and if they are color you can use. I believe I used the "cheap" paints for these models:

Old Bachmann "Sears Catalog House" plastic kit, but bashed from 2-story to 1-story.


Scratchbuilt model of my mother-in-law's house in Hutchinson, Kansas, but built mostly of styrene.


Both N scale, by the way.

[jacon12]

For painting structures made of plastic, such as the Walthers Lumber Co. etc. will the regular model paint found at places like Walmart do just fine? Do you paint structures like this before or after assembly?
Thanks,
Jarrell