Crossing Signals

[BRVRR]

dadret,
I went through the whole process with crossing signals myself. The signals were not such a problem, but the control circuits were difficult (for me) to build, expensive, or difficult to install. After checking out the market I settled on Berkshire Junction's Deluxe Cross buck Control System. For about $50.00 you get the control and detection circuits, detectors and a set of nice brass flashing cross bucks. This is a link to their website:
[url="http://berkshirejunction.com"]
I have a brief 'photo essay' of my installation on my website. Link is in my signature. Pu***he "How'd You Do That" button and scroll down to the thumbnail of the RR Crossing. Click on the thumbnail to get to the essay.
Good luck!

[Anonymous]

dadret,

The Model Power XG's "flash" just like you state - you manually move the switch back and forth. I imagine that gets old..

For the price, though, they're not bad - the only real flaw being the yellow color of the sign (instead of white) and the fact that they're black, rather than silver. By discarding the switch, they can be wired to just about any commercial system.

NJ International makes some nice, but pricey signals, too.

The task of automating crossing guards involves 3 interacting processes - the signals themselves, detection, and flashing.

Signals can have either 12V bulbs or LEDs and you need to be sure you account for that.

The most common type of detection are IR, photocell, and block detection. Each has it's strengths and weaknesses. None are "perfect" and some folks prefer one, some another.

Photocell detection works well in some rooms, not so well in others. If the light level is subject to change, you find yourself fiddling with them.

Block detection requires careful thought (and usually some compromise) on the length of the block, the use of detecable wheel sets on longer trains, and a voltage drop from adjacent blocks.

IR units can be difficult to mount and align and are a single point detector. You need two for a crossing and that drives the price up.

The "flasher" may be separate or integrated with the detection. Some folks like to buy one board that does it all, others like the versatility of having each as separate components.

I used to carry both a photocell system and a block detection system. I dropped the photocell one (which I made myself) because I just couldn't guarantee a customer it would work on their layout with their lighting without endless fiddling. I've looked at a couple of IR units, but haven't setteld on one to carry.

The best methodology of selecting, as always, is to look at different systems and ask questions of the owners.

Mike Tennent

[DavidBriel]

Iron Penguin Electronics (a model railroad company in Georgia) makes electronics for model railroaders. They make a crossing flasher that operates the Model Power crossing signals realistically.

[prfedd]

Have you thought of scratchbuilding them. I built some about 12 years ago, using a detection circuit by Eric Braucher, drive circuit by Peter Thorne, Solid state parts and LED's from Radio Shack. The signals have operated flawlessly .

[dadret]

The Busch model 5934 is an American version of their crossing signals. I'm looking for a modern flashing light version, not wig-wag (yet)/

I bought a Model Power signal with a pre-wired switch but I don't like how it operates. It has a two way switch and in one position it lights one bulb and the other in the opposite position - they don't appear to flash (Or at least I haven't figured out how to do it - maybe someone knows how).

[railroadyoshi]

nvm, the busch ones r american

they look good to me
i doubt you will find these in a hobby shop, you will probably have to order them

the model pwer 1681 looks a bit weird, oversize
though its a good price

if you r looking for modern, check out the NJ International ones
good luck

[railroadyoshi]

what type, modern, wig-wag?
wouldnt the busch ones be european?
are you modeling eurpe or the US?

[dadret]

I'm looking for some operating but fairly inexpensive crossing signals that don't have extensive wiring involved. Any suggestions? The Busch 5934 looks like it might be what I want but I can't tell a lot from the Walthers catalog and none of the local shops have any. Also the Model Power 1681 looks like a possibility.
I could use some advice from some of you guys with more experience than me. THanks.