Bridges and Trestles, how difficult?

[ukguy]

Thanks jarrell, I'm watchin, but I'm about 250 miles north of the coast in Jackson MS, just a beeze and some rain here I would guess, thankfully.

Fingers are crossed for the other folk though.

Karl.

[jacon12]

The August issue of MR has a neat bridge on page 54, just happened to be an article on Logging.
Jarrell

[jacon12]

Hmmmm.... Karl, you're on the Gulf coast? Dennis is coming, keep an eye on him.
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cablebridge

jacon12,

Those are some nice wood trestles. They are better than anything I have done to date. But, I have another quick and dirty trestle idea for you that I plan to incorporate on my own layout. Micro Engineering sells a 4 pack of (HO Scale) 50 ft plate girders; each about 6.875" long. Buy a 1x4 piece of wood and some of these girders. Rip the 1x4 to about 3/4 inch wide. Cut to length (an even increment of the 50 plate girders). Paint the ripped 1x4 dark grey to black. Attach the bottom flange cover plates to the girders. Paint the girders silver/aluminum color. Glue the girders to the side(s) of the ripped 1x4. Now buy one or more pieces of Bridge Flex Track also sold by Micro Engineering. Place the bridge flex track over your girders, and add the guardrails and refuges, etc. Place the trestle superstructure (everything you just built) on the layout. Build piers under the bridge using whatever sort of piers suit you, but remember one pier must rest at the end of each span. You may make timber pile bents or modern concrete piers or anything in-between. You can build a lot of steel trestle very quickly this way. If you use timber pile bents, or want the trestle to appear old, then weather the girders with a highly thinned mixture of Testors "Rust" color and washes of india ink. Micro Engineering also sells 4-packs of bridge bearings (they call them bridge shoes I think), which are what we refer to in the industry as High Profile Bearings. I add these to each end of the girder spans I build. I can not over emphasize the benefit of using Bridge Track on a bridge model of this sort. This is the thing you will see the most when you view the model.

Good Luck. - Ed

Thanks for the indepth answer Ed. What I've been thinking about, since this trestle is up on a logging line, is something like the railroad would put up as cheaply as they could. I've even seen two logs places across a span and rails run across them. I want something a little better than that but not by much!
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer

i knew that somewhere amongst all my model railroad links there was something about trestles . check out the 'photo album' link , the trestle is about 4 pages in . lots of other nice construction photos too

http://www.trainweb.org/silversanjuan/index.html

Thanks!
If anyone else would like to see it.
http://www.trainweb.org/silversanjuan/Page3/Page6.html
He makes it look easy!
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

jacon12,

Those are some nice wood trestles. They are better than anything I have done to date. But, I have another quick and dirty trestle idea for you that I plan to incorporate on my own layout. Micro Engineering sells a 4 pack of (HO Scale) 50 ft plate girders; each about 6.875" long. Buy a 1x4 piece of wood and some of these girders. Rip the 1x4 to about 3/4 inch wide. Cut to length (an even increment of the 50 plate girders). Paint the ripped 1x4 dark grey to black. Attach the bottom flange cover plates to the girders. Paint the girders silver/aluminum color. Glue the girders to the side(s) of the ripped 1x4. Now buy one or more pieces of Bridge Flex Track also sold by Micro Engineering. Place the bridge flex track over your girders, and add the guardrails and refuges, etc. Place the trestle superstructure (everything you just built) on the layout. Build piers under the bridge using whatever sort of piers suit you, but remember one pier must rest at the end of each span. You may make timber pile bents or modern concrete piers or anything in-between. You can build a lot of steel trestle very quickly this way. If you use timber pile bents, or want the trestle to appear old, then weather the girders with a highly thinned mixture of Testors "Rust" color and washes of india ink. Micro Engineering also sells 4-packs of bridge bearings (they call them bridge shoes I think), which are what we refer to in the industry as High Profile Bearings. I add these to each end of the girder spans I build. I can not over emphasize the benefit of using Bridge Track on a bridge model of this sort. This is the thing you will see the most when you view the model.

Good Luck. - Ed

[ereimer]

i knew that somewhere amongst all my model railroad links there was something about trestles . check out the 'photo album' link , the trestle is about 4 pages in . lots of other nice construction photos too

http://www.trainweb.org/silversanjuan/index.html

[ereimer]

karl , nice to hear from you , especially that you're getting the modelling bug again . best of luck to you . hopefully the 'hurricanes' will hit somewhere other than the layout

[selector]

Karl, the bows go to you, My Friend. I was supported, not thwarted. 'Nuff said? [bow]

[Medina1128]

Karl, If I mail you a 2x6, will you make me one?

[cheese3]

UKguy, nice job on the bridge...Glad to see you still come around for advice

Jacon12-can't wait to see your bridge

[ukguy]

Thanks Jarrell for giving me 3 yrs experience credit, and the compliment. However, my interest in MR was perked in Oct'2004 (umm thats last year not 2-3 yrs ago)[;)] when I joined this forum. For 3 months from Nov'04 to Feb'05 I experimented with techniques, had a vague plan in my head and built the PineRidge layout, or at least started to.

In Feb'05 the first "hurricane" hit and levelled about 100trees. All I have actually done on the layout since the end of Feb'05 is replace the trees and added a few more. If you go to my website there is a "3 month progress" pic which shows the layout at that time, as you can see, little or no progress has been made since. Soooo..... as opposed to the 2-3 years you credit me with I have actually only been actively MRRing for 3 months.

All the pics I share now are from that 3 month period, it was 3 months of intense trial and ERROR and much fun, I know Crandell can appreciate the intensity side as we pretty much started the same time along parrallel lines(although he finished[bow][:D]

Since Feb I have experimented a very little with things, half built a few structures and made some spectacles for Chip, no scenery or other layout work has been done.

So, as you can see, I am a beginner just like you, I have 3 months practical experience under my modelling belt which is why I know that you can accomplish your goals.

The sandstone was a cheap 50c craft paint from wal-mart. I used 22" radius snap track for the outer curve so I knew the radius was 22", simple really[;)]

Have fun & be safe, dont be afraid to try anything, thats the only thing that can hold you back.

Karl.

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dwRavenstar

Jarrell,
Maybe this will help.
http://www.trainweb.org/tomfassett/models/trestle01/

Ravenstar, if a person can't build a jig with those instructions they just aren't trying..[:)]
I've bookmarked it and will read it over more thoroughly.
Thank you for the link.
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ukguy

Thanks Crandell, Jarrell, I appreciate it.

Truely Jarrell it really is that simple, and dont forget I was a beginner when I built that one, I was only 2 weeks into MRRing way back in late 2004 and this was my first item to build as I stated in my earlier post. If theres one thing this hobby has taught me(and trust me there are a lot more than one) it is to not be afraid to try something new or different, it truely cant go that wrong, and if it does you'll know what NOT to do next time, I think this should be true of life in general though

For the curved section of the trestle I drew an arc on my workbench to the same radii and then drew in 'spokes' to the centerpoint much like a bicycle wheel, the outer points are spaced 2.5" apart.


I then layed the trestle deck upside down following the arc and glued the legs to the deck aligned with the spokes so that I achieved the correct angle and spacing for each support. I hope that makes it clear.[%-)]

The first trestle took me about 35 hours to do as I was figuring out the processes and flying blind basically. I think maybe I'm going to build a new one tonight, (all this sitting around without modelling is making my fingers itch to do something creative, I cant stand it much longer.[:D] ) I'll let you know how long it takes if I get it done and show you some pics.

As for the rocks they are just WS moulds, only 3 different types I think. Turn the lights on and highlight the natual shadows with a black wash, splotch on some raw sienna in the recesses and non protruding areas, or just randomly, allow to dry. Cover entirely with a wash of raw sienna(I found that raw sienna over raw sienna produces a darker brown) allow to dry, this will give a nice very multitonal depth. Give the entire rockface a wash or several of sandstone, this blends it all togther and gives it a nice dry dusty look, IMO.

Have fun & be safe,
Karl.

Karl, if you've only been in this 2 or 3 years I'm the new Pope Whatshisname.. [;)] Seriously , you do beautiful work. Now, black washes and raw sienna I'm familiar with but not Sandstone. That must be a light tan. Also, how did you figure what the correct radius would be? I don't think I'll try that, its a little over my head right now.
Wow, what isn't!
Jarrell

[dwRavenstar]

Jarrell,
Maybe this will help.
http://www.trainweb.org/tomfassett/models/trestle01/

[ukguy]

Thanks Crandell, Jarrell, I appreciate it.

Truely Jarrell it really is that simple, and dont forget I was a beginner when I built that one, I was only 2 weeks into MRRing way back in late 2004 and this was my first item to build as I stated in my earlier post. If theres one thing this hobby has taught me(and trust me there are a lot more than one) it is to not be afraid to try something new or different, it truely cant go that wrong, and if it does you'll know what NOT to do next time, I think this should be true of life in general though

For the curved section of the trestle I drew an arc on my workbench to the same radii and then drew in 'spokes' to the centerpoint much like a bicycle wheel, the outer points are spaced 2.5" apart.


I then layed the trestle deck upside down following the arc and glued the legs to the deck aligned with the spokes so that I achieved the correct angle and spacing for each support. I hope that makes it clear.[%-)]

The first trestle took me about 35 hours to do as I was figuring out the processes and flying blind basically. I think maybe I'm going to build a new one tonight, (all this sitting around without modelling is making my fingers itch to do something creative, I cant stand it much longer.[:D] ) I'll let you know how long it takes if I get it done and show you some pics.

As for the rocks they are just WS moulds, only 3 different types I think. Turn the lights on and highlight the natual shadows with a black wash, splotch on some raw sienna in the recesses and non protruding areas, or just randomly, allow to dry. Cover entirely with a wash of raw sienna(I found that raw sienna over raw sienna produces a darker brown) allow to dry, this will give a nice very multitonal depth. Give the entire rockface a wash or several of sandstone, this blends it all togther and gives it a nice dry dusty look, IMO.

Have fun & be safe,
Karl.

[selector]

JSoule, thanks, I have added to my favourites.

[pcarrell]

Hey Jarrell,

The Walthers kit has the parts in it to do a curved trestle, so you can copy them.

I've seen how handy you are (no, really) and I'm sure you can do it!



JSoule,

That link was great! Thanks

[jacon12]

Wow Karl, you make it look so simple! And I know its not..[*^_^*] Let me rephrase that.. not for a beginner like me. By the way, how did you make those beautiful rocks in that topmost photo in your signature? Those things are beautiful.
I appreciate everyones answers and if I decide to do one (I probably will) I think I'll go with a kit and try to copy it. Doing one on a curved track, which most of the incline is, has me concerned though.
John, thanks for the link. I need to learn how to make jigs.
Walthers plastic kit should do the trick.
Thanks!
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

Try the link below. I found their website to be very useful. You can purchase a kit or use the information to build your own from scratch. From the clinic information, I built my own jig and did my own, as I need only a couple of bents to cross a gulley. Good luck.

http://www.blackbearcc.com/HO_kits.htm

John
Austin, Texas

[selector]

You da Man, Karl. [:D]

[ukguy]

Jarrell,

here's how I did it, (probably the hard way)

1: Start off with a 2x6 (see I told you I did it the hard way)

2: Rip this down into thin strips.

3: Rip the strips into scale lumber

4: Cut into correctly sized pieces

5: Sand smooth the pieces (or to eliminate all the hard work of steps 1-5 buy scale lumber or balsa sheets[banghead] )

6: Make a jig to simplify and ensure the accuracy/consistancy of repetetive componants.

7: Assemble major componants.

8: Trial fit and add more major componants.

9: Add smaller parts such as cross bracing and other details.

10: Scenic the area accordingly.


Unfortunately I didnt research or read enough, or really look at any plans, just a few basic photos, therefor I ended up with a vastly unprototypical trestle, I however, am pleased with the result and think it turned out quite well as it was the first thing I ever built for the RR. Next time I will take more time over the research and try to elevate my results.

I hope this showed you how easy this kind of thing actually is, as I stated in step 5 all the real work I undertook was in creating the 'lumber' which could have easily been avoided, and certainly will be next time[:D], the remaining steps 6-10 were surprisingly simple.

Have fun & be safe,
Karl.

[ARTHILL]

I did a simple but large trestle kit. It was time consumming but easy and the result was good enough for me. I also did Faller's Bietschal bridge kit. I added two sets of Central Valley Girder and cut off the walkway. The end product was good. It was moderatly hard and took a couple of weeks, though I was laying track at the same time. Both kits add great look to the pike with little effort. I plan a long and very high curved wood trestle for later. That will be scratch built and probably take months.

I like bridges and I think you get more look per hour than anything else.
http://photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/


Have Fun

Art

[ukguy]

Jarrell

I dont think that it will be too dificult for you at all, time consuming maybe, I cannot see that it will be any more taxing than any other kit(even if you make the componants yourself).
Take your time, and as with any other aspect of MRR, read and research, look at as many photos as you can to familiarise yourself with styles, maybe aquire the publication "Railroad Bridges You Can Build" (or something like that) from Kalmbach and jump into it.
As with many complicated looking things in life, once you break them down into their smaller sections, ie, bents braces, supports, they really are not complicated but the finished item will be most impressive, other viewers will just see the highly complicated wooden structure before them, you however will know how simple it actually is once taken step by step, piece by piece, but lets keep that a secret.

I have faith in your ability to do this by your progress so far so just jump right in and try it, you will be pleased with the results I am sure.


Have fun & be safe.
Karl.

[pcarrell]

If you want higher detail, or just the satasfaction of building it yourself, there are lots of books on the topic. If you are a hands on guy like me, and I suspect you are, you could do what I did and buy the Walthers kit and some scale wood and use the kit as a pattern. It makes it pretty easy and any parts that you think might be beyond your abilities you can raid the kit for!

[wjstix]

If you use say Walthers plastic trestle kit, shouldn't be too difficult. Go for it !! Even if the first time isn't perfect, will make the next one that much easier.

[ndbprr]

Like every other aspect it depends on how much detail you want. Take the time to make yourself a jig to position everything and it should be fairly simple if time consuming (what isn't?). From your picture I would estimate that fill would be used for at least 1/3 to 1/2 of the distance or longer.

[jacon12]

Now that I've got track removed to fix a problem, I was thinking that I'd like to have a trestle on the incline that leads up to the logging area. As you see in the below photo..

I've used Woodland Scenic risers and inclines for this 4 percent grade and I wonder, since this is my first layout, how difficult is it for a beginner to install trestles.
Or should I avoid it?
Jarrell