Masonite flexibility?

[selector]

Have a look at 'doorskin' if your hardware store carries it.

[ham99]

Baltic birch ply also comes in 1/8" and will bend very sharply. It is quality stuff, with no voids or fills. Runs about $14 for a 5'x5' sheet locally. Sands and finishes beautifully. There is an inferior substitute on the market -- poor grain and finishes rough. Check before buying.

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rtesta

FYI, while not cheap, note that there is such a thing as bendable ply wood. on the east coast, NY area, cost is about $50 for a 4'x8' sheet. its 3/8" thick and it does bend, almost as good as 1/8" masonite, and no, NO kerfing on the back side, this is finish quality stuff. you can get it in either bend long ways or short ways, normally you want the bend long ways, ie. 8 feet.

while not for backdrops its great for facias where you may want the wood/furniture look, and a 4x8 sheet could yield anywhere from 32 to 64 feet of facia at 12" to 6" wide strips respectively. its also stiffer than 1/8" or 1/4" masonite, glues better, screws better and will support fixtures mounted on or to the facia better.

i had some left over from a spiral stairwell i built and one more sheet will be all i need to do the 80 feet of facia i need.
bobt
its gonna look NICE!

This specialty ply is really great stuff. What I use is called "whacky wood", but there are various names from different suppiers. I use it for starting steps when building stairs w/ a turnout or volute. This 3/8" ply will make a 5" radius when forced and backed by corresponding curved frame. It is rather pricey and as mentioned would only be used if your facia was furniture quality.
If you are looking for the same affect, you can use quality 3/8" ply. With the facia strips cut cross grained (only get 48") the ply will bend to a min of a 20" radius w/o kerfing (will vary pending ply quality and facia height). This has been done sucessfully at my club by attaching the plywood to radian triangular brace supports. We glued and used two layers to line up w/ the staight 1x stock. This method created a solid contiuous frame for the end to 3 penninsulas. 1/4" masonite was used over this and run to conform to the landscape contours for scenery. We do tend to get carried away with some of our benchwork @ The South Shore Model Railway Club, but this layout is expected to last many years if not generations.
Bob K.

[rtesta]

FYI, while not cheap, note that there is such a thing as bendable ply wood. on the east coast, NY area, cost is about $50 for a 4'x8' sheet. its 3/8" thick and it does bend, almost as good as 1/8" masonite, and no, NO kerfing on the back side, this is finish quality stuff. you can get it in either bend long ways or short ways, normally you want the bend long ways, ie. 8 feet.

while not for backdrops its great for facias where you may want the wood/furniture look, and a 4x8 sheet could yield anywhere from 32 to 64 feet of facia at 12" to 6" wide strips respectively. its also stiffer than 1/8" or 1/4" masonite, glues better, screws better and will support fixtures mounted on or to the facia better.

i had some left over from a spiral stairwell i built and one more sheet will be all i need to do the 80 feet of facia i need.
bobt
its gonna look NICE!

[Anonymous]

for a multipurpose primer, I like Kilz. Get the acrylic version, not the oil-based, unless you LIKE the stink.

Kills does a good job of sealing things, and keeps stuff from bleeding through.

Rob

[rfross]

I'm in the process of installing my 1/8" masonite now. I did countersink the screws but the process of countersinking left a small ridge similiar to a volcano's crater. Does this sand down easily?

BTW I'm using small #4 x 3/4" screws spaced approximately 8" apart to secure the masonite to the 1x2's in back. Won't be much to fill. And speaking of filling, what's the best choice? Wood filler? Spackle? Something else?

As far as flexibility goes, the one corner that I've installed so far I forced into a curve of approximately 18" radius which is greater than I really wanted. I was hoping to get it down to about 12" but was worried that I'd snap the masonite. Even though it does eat up some horizontal real estate I'm extremely happy with the way it has turned out so far.

When it comes to paint, does anyone have a recommendation for a primer or is a primer not necessary? I want to do it right and do it once and if it means priming that's no big deal because I'd rather get it done and out of the way instead of having to go back and fix it later.

[2021]

An additional comment - If you want to cut the masonite top edge to allow for hills, rivers, roads, valleys, etc., do it after you have mounted the masonite. I keep mine about 2 inches higher than my foam which lets me put in hills or valleys and then cut with a saber saw (now called a jig saw) to form the final shape. File or sand the top edge smooth. Fill in screw holes and paint.
Ron K.

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Medina1128

I know some guys that have used formica for the front edge of the layout (fascia) and it's real flexible. Just clamp it into place and trace the terrain shape onto it, then cut it out with a jig saw.

Use of Formica for facia, should be contact cemented to a substrate and trimmed w/ a flu***rimming router bit. Formica is rather expensive for this purpose. I would suggest just painting the masonite, MDF, ply etc. Cutting laminate w/ a saw blade chips and leaves a real ragged/ dangerous edge. Have laminated counter tops for over 25 years, have received many nasty cuts from it.
Formica scraps, however, are handy for paint mixing palets, mixing epoxies/ resins- etc.
Other non RR related uses: Mixing Bondo (body work), For protecting wood or vinyl flooring while sliding heavy appliances into place.
Bob K.

[jkeaton]

1/8 inch Masonite is marvellously, almost excessively flexible.

I second the recommendation to countersink all the screws. I didn't do that at first, but have now gone back and countersunk all of them. It makes a huge difference to the finishing.

Jim

[ham99]

I use 1/8" tempered Masonite. Tempered is shiny on both sides. Untempered has a lighter back side with a basketweave pattern molded in. For the front fascia, I cut it slightly higher than the highest part of the scenery, put it in place and trace the outline of the scenery, then take it to the band saw and cut the profile. Then I spray the backside with enamel before installing it. Where the scenery is lower than the track, I mount a 3" strip [for N scale] of clear plexiglas to prevent derailments from going off the table.

[Medina1128]

I know some guys that have used formica for the front edge of the layout (fascia) and it's real flexible. Just clamp it into place and trace the terrain shape onto it, then cut it out with a jig saw.

[jacon12]

As you can see in the photo..

I used it also. I have the 1/4th inch and it worked fine. The one thing I would suggest is do take the time to counter sink ALL screws below level, assuming you'll use screws to attach it (and I would). Doing so will make your life Soooooo much easier when you starting filling over the screws with drywall mud or whatever you use. Also be sure to glue (I used Liquid Nails) the masonite at the 'seams', where two pieces join, and then screw it also. You'll have to be sure there is an upright 1x2 placed where that seam will be.
If you're using 1x2 uprights to hold the masonite, and they're NOT attached to the wall, use a piece of 1x2 to attach the two uprights (at the top) where the masonite goes around the curve. That will keep them from bowing under the pressure of the curve.
Jarrell

[claycts]

1/8" from Lowes $5.98 per sheet, slippery as heck to carry face to face. Use 1x2 for sleepers on the wall and use Finish Washers on the facia. I used Liquid nails to hold the 1x2 to cinder block and liquid nails and braids 3/8" to hold thr masonite to the wall sleepers. When I get to the facia I will screw where I want to ramove and glue where it will never come apart.
Hope this helps
George P.

[aweinstock]

Hi all,
I note that many of you use a vertical masonite panels along the edge of your layouts which you bend into curves. How do you manage the bending and which thicknesses of the material are best. Are any other types of bendable material better?
Thanks in advance for your help.
AW