Shaving On An Incline

[jacon12]

I made this little drawing to help you understand the area I'm having a problem with. Its not a big problem... yet.
What is the best way to ease the transition between the incline and the level? Shave a little off both of them at the same time?

I don't know how well the Woodland Scenics material take to shaving, it seems to be made of expanded styrofoam, not extruded.
Thanks for any help.
Jarrell

[pcarrell]

one word;

SANDPAPER

or if your in a hurry;

BELTSANDER!

[pcarrell]

[(-D]

[selector]

This might be the one time I tried a hot knife. I don't know how expanded foam behaves when being sanded...or belted...[:D]...but it would probably do well by the hot knife.

To answer your question, Jarrell, yes, you must ease into that leveling, and I'm pretty sure you sense that the easing will have to start early so as not to lift drivers into thin air. Mind you, your Dream Steam shouldn't have much of a problem in that regard. Dr. Overton's prescription is to: a. acquire said loco (yes, yes, I know it'll hurt, but it has to be done [:D]), and, b. use it to prove your transition.

[pcarrell]

Here, here...I'll second that motion!

[pcarrell]

Actually, you know what might work pretty well is an electric knife...like the ones you carve a turkey with. Just don't let the wife catch you. Better yet, go to the local Goodwill store. You could probably get one for a song there (provided you don't sound like me when you sing).

[jacon12]

Excellent advice all around! Goodwill huh... I know just the one. Crandell I wish I could go ahead and get that Shay but it's just not in the budget right now. Hey! Thats what I need to name this thing, The Bujet Railway Co. Ltd. It could run from Poormans Mountain down to the town of Fundserlow, right thru the little village of Ineeda across the Chargeton bridge. In Fundserlow the Goodwill could do so much business it has to get stuff by rail from other stores.
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

I use woodland inclines. I didn't modify in anyway. The
work great as is. They look fine as well. If it isn't broke
why fix it? Most observers couldn't spot a smoothed transition
from as is.

[selector]

Jarrell, did I not see that you found transition pieces in your grade kit? Did you use them all up at the low end, or what? Why can you not use some at the high end?

[pcarrell]

Jacon12...there's something not right about you! he, he, he...

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gobarker

I use woodland inclines. I didn't modify in anyway. The
work great as is. They look fine as well. If it isn't broke
why fix it? Most observers couldn't spot a smoothed transition
from as is.

Gobarker, are you using the 4% inclines?[:0]
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by selector

Jarrell, did I not see that you found transition pieces in your grade kit? Did you use them all up at the low end, or what? Why can you not use some at the high end?

Transition pieces? Crandell, you're pullin' my leg again! [}:)] I didn't see any.
Jarrell

[selector]

Sorry, I thought you and, was it Randy, were talking about some smaller pieces to use as transitions into and out of the grade. Who knows, I need more sleep!

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by selector

Sorry, I thought you and, was it Randy, were talking about some smaller pieces to use as transitions into and out of the grade. Who knows, I need more sleep!

Hmmm.. we might have been. It was probably using small pieces of cardstock or the like to ease the transition, which it does. The bottom transition isn't the one that 'looks' bad, it's the top one. I may have to do a little shaving there it ease it some.
Jarrell

[Anonymous]

For the initial transition from flat to incline I'd use a carpenter's shim. Their cut from cedar, and go from about 1/16" or less on one end to about 1/4" on the other end, and their about 12-14" long. They cost next to nothing and just the right width for HO track.

Mark in Utah

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mark_in_utah

For the initial transition from flat to incline I'd use a carpenter's shim. Their cut from cedar, and go from about 1/16" or less on one end to about 1/4" on the other end, and their about 12-14" long. They cost next to nothing and just the right width for HO track.

Mark in Utah

Thanks Mark for the idea. Now! How about that top transition?[:D]
Jarrell

[electrolove]

jacon12:

When I was young I was building and flying RC aeroplanes. I constructed a simple device (hot wire) that could cut my wings out of foam. I then glued balsa sheets on the foam to make them strong. Maybe you can use this method (without the balsa) to make a incline that is rounder at the top? All you need is 2 templates made of plywood on a plate and your foam in the middle, then you use the hot wire to follow your template. With a little practice you can make very nice inclines. But don't ask me how you make them curved at the same time [:D] Maybe someone here can tell? I'm not so good at explaining in English because I'm from Sweden, so take a look at this link:

http://www.geocities.com/roger_forgues/foam.html

[Anonymous]

Jarrell,
It's A train again. I just sent you an email about your other topic. For this topic, don't do none that mentioned above. Not just yet at lease. What you want to do is place all of the foam riser and inclines down where you want them. If you need to go higher, Just stack them up, but not too high and if you do stack. Make sure that the inclines are not close to the last incline. This will prevent your loco form going up that hill. And forget about it coming down. It would be too fast causing possible derailments. For shaving, do this. After you have them all glued down in place. Take some newspaper wads and place them around it to create mountain terrain. (Only if you choose to) Then get some Woodland Senic Plaster Cloth and palster cloth the foam. Let dry until it's hard as a rock. THEN AND ONLY THEN YOU GET YOU SAND PAPER AND SAND DOWN TO THE GRADE YOU WANT. The roadbed is the next thing to do when your completed with that. Once Again, DON'T use that AMI Road bed on this. You'll regret it to where you want to quit because it the foam dosen't comply with the train you have, you will have to remove it all. When palcing this foam down and after you glue it. It's wise to palce a track on it to make sure you train can go that route. Then follow up on the palster. That's how it done. Correctly.