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Stikie situatoin..

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 3, 2005 8:27 PM
If you use a toothpick or any other small, pointy object to apply the glue, you should be able to apply a small amount of glue right where you want it![;)]
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Posted by jacon12 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 9:25 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Jarrell,

is that the Testors Liquid cement you are using? That's the best stuff for gluing styrene to styrene because it actually "melts" the outer layer of the plastic and "melds" the two pieces together. It's also thin enough to use (sparingly) on the backside of parts that are to be glued but are just fitted together - e.g. the tabs that hold the braking system pieces in place on Accurail box cars. Otherwise, it gets too messy and/or cumbersome to glue the part THEN try and fit it in the small hole before the cement dries.

Tom

Yes Tom, that's the stuff. Kinda like thick water and its doing fine holding styrene to styrene.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, June 2, 2005 4:55 PM
Jarrell,

Is that the Testors Liquid cement you are using? That's the best stuff for gluing styrene to styrene because it actually "melts" the outer layer of the plastic and "melds" the two pieces together. It's also thin enough to use (sparingly) on the backside of parts that are to be glued but are just fitted together - e.g. the tabs that hold the braking system pieces in place on Accurail box cars. Otherwise, it gets too messy and/or cumbersome to glue the part THEN try and fit it in the small hole before the cement dries.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by jacon12 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 4:37 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Airport?
Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell


Bob, it's a plastic Walthers' kit. The Testors `seems` to be doing ok~
Jarrell

Jarrell,
You really didn't mention what you are glueing, or getting glued to. Is it styrene, metal to plastic, etc.? ACC joints on plastic to plastic are brittle, if moved or flexed it will fail. What glue and method would depend on the application as well as what material being bonded.
Bob K.
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, June 2, 2005 8:43 AM
The best dispenser for CA I have ever found is a big syringe thing with a screw plunger, allowing one to dispense very tiny amounts, and no air gets into the syringe portion so it does't really dry out inside like other large CA glue bottles I have purchased. The nozzle still gets clogged sometimes, but a little poking with an .020" brass rod opens things up nicely.
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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, June 2, 2005 8:30 AM
Cap it tightly. Sharply bang the bottle on the table to knock any loose glue out of the nozzle area into the bottom, and don't buy big bottles of CA. Make sure the cap is on tight! I'm working with a bottle now that has been open for nearly a month. I'll probably STILL not use it all before it finally sets up in the bottle, but it was only one of the small bottles anyway. Paying big $$ for those large size bottles is a sure invitation to wasting over 3/4 of it, unless you have a LOT to glue. Like using it to build a full-size house.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by soumodeler on Thursday, June 2, 2005 7:47 AM
I use Ambroid's ProWeld for gluing plastic and love it. The bottle has an applicator bru***hat I use for rough joining but for details and tight spots, I bought a "Touch-N-Flow" from Creations Unlimited Hobby Products ($6.25). All it is is a glass tube with a very small metal tube on the end. You dip the glass end into the bottle and hold it there and the glue will go up the tube. You turn it over and it starts to run down the tube. When it gets to the bottom, very small beads come out right where you want them.

When I use Testors, I put it on with a toothpick.

And all my super glue has dried up in the bottles. How do you keep it from doing that?

soumodeler
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soumodeler --------------- The Southern Serves the South!
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Posted by bogp40 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 7:03 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Airport?
Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell



Jarrell,
You really didn't mention what you are glueing, or getting glued to. Is it styrene, metal to plastic, etc.? ACC joints on plastic to plastic are brittle, if moved or flexed it will fail. What glue and method would depend on the application as well as what material being bonded.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by jacon12 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 6:12 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

Check Wal-mart, K-mart, etc. for a new product -- Loctite Super Glue in a spillproof bottle with a brush in the cap. They call it the Easy Brush. Great way to apply it -- no more dribbling it on and having it run everywhere that you don't want it.


Cacole, hopefully I'm going by Walmart today. I'll try to remember to check it out.
Thanks for the tip.
Jarrell
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Posted by jacon12 on Thursday, June 2, 2005 6:10 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Trainnut1250

Jarrell,

Pour a small amount of the glue in a pool in a jar lid or other container. Dip a piece of piano wire in the pool. You will have a small amount of CA on the end which can be applied to the joint or parts in question. I use this for plastic glue as well and use a wire to apply it or simply dip small parts in the glue and then apply. As the glue dries out, make another pool nearby. I have built tons of models using this technique with very few glue related accidents or marring of surfaces....

All the built in applicators I have tried get clogged with glue and offer the possibility of delivering more glue than you want to the model (did I tell you about the time I glued the boxcar to my arm???)

Thanks for the tips Guy.
No, tell me about the boxcar incident..[:D]
Jarrell
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 11:43 PM
You can also buy tips of various sizes that can be attached to your bottle of CA. A well stocked hobby shop should have them. It may be something they keep behind the counter.
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Posted by cacole on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 11:34 PM
Check Wal-mart, K-mart, etc. for a new product -- Loctite Super Glue in a spillproof bottle with a brush in the cap. They call it the Easy Brush. Great way to apply it -- no more dribbling it on and having it run everywhere that you don't want it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 10:49 PM
Jarrell,

Pour a small amount of the glue in a pool in a jar lid or other container. Dip a piece of piano wire in the pool. You will have a small amount of CA on the end which can be applied to the joint or parts in question. I use this for plastic glue as well and use a wire to apply it or simply dip small parts in the glue and then apply. As the glue dries out, make another pool nearby. I have built tons of models using this technique with very few glue related accidents or marring of surfaces....

All the built in applicators I have tried get clogged with glue and offer the possibility of delivering more glue than you want to the model (did I tell you about the time I glued the boxcar to my arm???)
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 9:23 PM
Ok, so I'm back to the hobby shop again tomorrow to look for the Right Stuff.... a medium CA maybe. I'll look for a fine, small paintbrush. I'll also cut the eye of a needle so it looks like a U and then I can apply just one drop of glue.
Thanks for the help!
Jarrell
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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 9:02 PM
For most kinds of plastic I use Tenax 7R when I need a fast joint, and Testor's liquid when I want a little more working time. There is a very nice applicator that Micro-Mark sells that I've been meaning to get, for now I use fine paintbrushes and I also have some small glue applicators that are like paintbrushes. Whatever plastic those are made out of isn't affected by the Tenax.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by bikerraypa on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 8:07 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by pcarrell

I think the model car and airplane guys have had to deal with this sticky stuff. Go to the LHS and ask them. Oh, wait, where's the fun in that, no trial and error and so on...

s'ok, the model airplane guy is already here [:D]

Anyway, the previous post is right. Don't putz around with the Testor's cement, it just isn't any good. Pick up some good modeling cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, such as the stuff Tower sells cheap:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT38&P=ML

You can apply it with the bottle, or with a small brush.

For using ONLY ONE DROP of glue at a time, which you need to do pretty frequently, try this. Take a relatively large sewing needle and nip the eye in half so it is shaped like a U. You can use that to "pick up" one drop of glue at a time, and place it accurately.

Here's my crude drawing and doggerel poem to match:


If you only use one type of CA, go with the medium. It's pretty much "all purpose," and it dries fast enough that kicker isn't really necessary.


Ray out.


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Posted by Jetrock on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 7:54 PM
Super Glue isn't really the thing for plastics. The Testors Model Cement is kid stuff--get the liquid cement and apply it with a cheap paintbrush (not one with plastic bristles or handle, or it'll melt!!) Super glue is better for gluing metal or little bits of wood.
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Posted by selector on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 7:42 PM
I thought for a second that maybe you'd also rubbed one of your eyes before typing that first post! [:O] [:D]

My LHS sold me that fancy CA for hobbies with the pry-back lid like a dunce cap, and the little plastic pipe or tube for fine application. He said it was great for binding the bents and stays for a trestle. BS! That exercise in frustration made me swear off the stuff for ever.
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 7:23 PM
I found the Testors Model Cement. It has a nice little long tapered snout -like thingy that puts the stuff in little cracks. Now if it'll just hold I'll be a happy happy boy.
If it doesn't I can always put Scotch tape on the outsides.
Jarrell
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Posted by pcarrell on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 7:14 PM
I think the model car and airplane guys have had to deal with this sticky stuff. Go to the LHS and ask them. Oh, wait, where's the fun in that, no trial and error and so on...
Philip
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 6:20 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

You must be using super glue -- the only thing I have ever managed to stick with that stuff is my fingers. [:p]


uh oh... it does say Super Glue for Hobbies so I thought it would work ok. I think I've got a bottle of Testors around here someplace.
Jarrell
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 6:19 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Airport?
Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell

Jarrell: try an old small paint brush if you have to trim some off it,and keep an old catfood can filled with actone to keep it clean[:P]

I have a dog, but maybe that will work.
Thanks oleirish!
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by cacole on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 6:12 PM
You must be using super glue -- the only thing I have ever managed to stick with that stuff is my fingers. [:p]
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Posted by davekelly on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 5:40 PM
I love this forum!!!!

Jarrell, although I can't recall the brand name, there are some super glues that have a very fine metal applicator that would allow a very small application of glue to what ever it is you are trying to glue together.
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
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Posted by oleirish on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 5:39 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

Airport?
Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell

Jarrell: try an old small paint brush if you have to trim some off it,and keep an old catfood can filled with actone to keep it clean[:P]
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Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 5:30 PM
I picked a bad day to stop drinking...


Roger, Roger.
Over, Oveur.

I AM serious. And DON'Y call me Shirley.



CLASSIC movie!


I solved the problem of sticking my fingers to the keyboard by moving my model building to other than my computer desk. Now I only get stuck to my modellign tools.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 5:19 PM
Airplane! Leslie Nielson in the cockpit of the plane. ;-) lol Love that movie!
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 5:17 PM
Airport?
Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth.
Any suggestions and tips appreciated!
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by davekelly on Wednesday, June 1, 2005 4:22 PM
There is a better way. And stop calling me Shirley. (quick what movie is that from?)
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.

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