QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage Jarrell, is that the Testors Liquid cement you are using? That's the best stuff for gluing styrene to styrene because it actually "melts" the outer layer of the plastic and "melds" the two pieces together. It's also thin enough to use (sparingly) on the backside of parts that are to be glued but are just fitted together - e.g. the tabs that hold the braking system pieces in place on Accurail box cars. Otherwise, it gets too messy and/or cumbersome to glue the part THEN try and fit it in the small hole before the cement dries. Tom
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Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12 Airport? Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth. Any suggestions and tips appreciated! Jarrell Bob, it's a plastic Walthers' kit. The Testors `seems` to be doing ok~ Jarrell Jarrell, You really didn't mention what you are glueing, or getting glued to. Is it styrene, metal to plastic, etc.? ACC joints on plastic to plastic are brittle, if moved or flexed it will fail. What glue and method would depend on the application as well as what material being bonded. Bob K.
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12 Airport? Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth. Any suggestions and tips appreciated! Jarrell
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole Check Wal-mart, K-mart, etc. for a new product -- Loctite Super Glue in a spillproof bottle with a brush in the cap. They call it the Easy Brush. Great way to apply it -- no more dribbling it on and having it run everywhere that you don't want it.
QUOTE: Originally posted by Trainnut1250 Jarrell, Pour a small amount of the glue in a pool in a jar lid or other container. Dip a piece of piano wire in the pool. You will have a small amount of CA on the end which can be applied to the joint or parts in question. I use this for plastic glue as well and use a wire to apply it or simply dip small parts in the glue and then apply. As the glue dries out, make another pool nearby. I have built tons of models using this technique with very few glue related accidents or marring of surfaces.... All the built in applicators I have tried get clogged with glue and offer the possibility of delivering more glue than you want to the model (did I tell you about the time I glued the boxcar to my arm???)
QUOTE: Originally posted by pcarrell I think the model car and airplane guys have had to deal with this sticky stuff. Go to the LHS and ask them. Oh, wait, where's the fun in that, no trial and error and so on...
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole You must be using super glue -- the only thing I have ever managed to stick with that stuff is my fingers. [:p]
QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12 Airport? Now that I've got my fingers unstuck maybe I can get this question out. Isn't there a better way to get the glue down in those tiny little places, and control the amount also? Maybe a hypodermic needle or something? I used a toothpick and it did ~ok~ I guess. But, I forgot and now the toothpick is stuck between my teeth. Any suggestions and tips appreciated! Jarrell Jarrell: try an old small paint brush if you have to trim some off it,and keep an old catfood can filled with actone to keep it clean[:P]