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Thickness of benchwork plywood?

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Posted by orsonroy on Saturday, May 28, 2005 9:53 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by grayfox1119

I am using 3/4" plywood. I too have read comment after comment , and after having used plywood of every thickness for a variety of projects, and witness the warping and bending of thinner pywood, there was no doubt in my mind that I was going to use 3/4".
For small layouts, and widths of 24" or less, you can get away with thinner plywood, especially if you space supports beneith at sufficient intervals.

But considering the value of what is on top of those tables, doesn't it make sense to have the strongest surface that you can afford? I know for some of you folks, the cost of 3/4" plywood is too high at $25-$28 a sheet, but what do you pay for ONE engine?



This is sort of like telling someone to use 4x4s for legs. Why bother?

I don't build layouts out of 1/4" Lauan and 2" foam because I'm a cheapskate or poor. I build that way because it's fast, an efficient use of my money, and plenty strong for shelf layouts (and my three level is basically nothing but a gigantic shelf). I could have built with 3/4" or even 1/2" ply, but it would have been a waste of my money, considering the added strength of the extra-thickness plywood isn't important on a non-load bearing shelf layout.

But if it makes you feel more secure, go ahead and use 1/2" or thicker ply. But just think of the extra goodies you could have on TOP of your foam if you didn't blow that money on wood!

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by grayfox1119 on Saturday, May 28, 2005 7:07 PM
I am using 3/4" plywood. I too have read comment after comment , and after having used plywood of every thickness for a variety of projects, and witness the warping and bending of thinner pywood, there was no doubt in my mind that I was going to use 3/4".
For small layouts, and widths of 24" or less, you can get away with thinner plywood, especially if you space supports beneith at sufficient intervals.

But considering the value of what is on top of those tables, doesn't it make sense to have the strongest surface that you can afford? I know for some of you folks, the cost of 3/4" plywood is too high at $25-$28 a sheet, but what do you pay for ONE engine?
Dick If you do what you always did, you'll get what you always got!! Learn from the mistakes of others, trust me........you can't live long enough to make all the mistakes yourself, I tried !! Picture album at :http://www.railimages.com/gallery/dickjubinville Picture album at:http://community.webshots.com/user/dickj19 local weather www.weatherlink.com/user/grayfox1119
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, May 28, 2005 6:01 PM
I used 3/8" but you have to make sure and glue and fasten it really well.
Next layout will be 3/4"
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Posted by jacon12 on Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:22 AM
I used 1/2 inch and the entire cast of Riverdance could dance on it. Well, that may be a slight exageration.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by TBat55 on Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:01 AM
I use 1/2" plywood (almost standard for house roofs; scrap pieces are easy to get).

Tortoise switch machines say "one inch" for the wire going up through the roadbed to the turnout points. 1/2" ply + 1/2" Homasote + cork leaves maybe 1/16" of wire to trim off. Of course you can always buy and install longer, thicker wire.

Terry

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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Friday, May 27, 2005 10:51 PM
I use 3/8 with joists on 12" centers with no problem. After you fasten it to the benchwork you can test it for deflection, but I don't think you'll have any.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by orsonroy on Friday, May 27, 2005 10:28 PM
Most of my three level layout is 1/4" plywood and 2" foam. With a 2x2 box frame support on the lowest level, it's plenty strong enough for my 225 lb butt to walk around on!

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 27, 2005 10:28 PM
I should probably mention that around here it's really hard to find the standard 2" foam sheets that most people use. I'll only be using probably two or three 1/2" sheets (which is what's primarily available) glued down to each other and the plywood tops of the benchwork. DIdn't know if that would affect your answers or not.
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Posted by markpierce on Friday, May 27, 2005 9:08 PM
Never had a problem with half-inch plywood, but I don't live an area of hot humid weather.
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Posted by CP5415 on Friday, May 27, 2005 8:02 PM
I'm using 1/2 plywood without foam & it's pleany strong.
3/8 will be strong enough for what you are planning

Gordon

Brought to you by the letters C.P.R. as well as D&H!

 K1a - all the way

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 27, 2005 7:51 PM
I agree with cacole. To add strength, glue the plywood to the L-girders in addition to your nails or screws.
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Posted by cacole on Friday, May 27, 2005 7:31 PM
With two sheets of foam on top, you should be able to get away with 3/8" plywood, but without the foam you would definitely need at least 1/2" thickness.
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Thickness of benchwork plywood?
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 27, 2005 7:27 PM
I've heard to use anthing from 3/8's all the way up to 3/4 inch plywood... I'd love to be able to use 3/8" due to it's low cost, and since I'll be laying at least a couple sheets of foam on top, would that be strong enough to support the weight of the layout? L-girder construction, joists are approximately 12-16 inch spacing depending on where they are on the layout. I do hear that 1/2 inch or thicker would be ideal, but this is a large layout that will require at least 7-10 sheets of plywood, and I'm trying to keep costs down as much as possible.

Thoughts?

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