3 tracklaying questions??

[dinwitty]

its easy enough to sight down the track for unevenness, but I am not worried about minor variations, but keeping the track level where you dont want cars to roll by themselves, sure.

simple pump spray bottle, try a garden shop.

half water/half glue and some dishwater soap, for fluiding saturation.

[skerber]

I found out by trial and error the mistake of not using enough dish soap to break the surface tension. My ballast clumped up and bubbled, never sitting exactly the way I wanted it. Later, upon moving across country, a good part of the glued ballast fell off.

I think on my new layout I am working on, I will use the 50/50 glue/water and a lot of alcohol mixure to make sure that this time I do it right! I want to make sure my ballast stays put for 20 years--unless I decide to change it.

For gluing down the track--if you haven't bought cork, or some kind of foam roadbed, I would recommend AMI Instant roadbed. I am using it on my new layout. It is an extreamly sticky rubber like adheasive that is easy to put down and lay track on. If you make a mistake, you can pull it up and relay it again. The track sticks very well and it holds it for a very long time (a hobby shop owner has a piece of track that is 7 years old and is still being held down by the AMI instant roadbed). If it is warm in your layout area, your hands may stick to the product when laying down. I did place nails in the little holes provided by Atlas just to make it extra solid. Supposedly ballast doesn't need as much glue since the Instant Roadbed will hold a lot of it by itself ( I will place the ballast down after I do the senery). I will still use the glue/water method just be extra sure the ballast stays put. One last thing, I was presently surprised by the sound deading qualities of the roadbed.

I hope this was helpful,
Steve

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bukwrm

I use 2 levels sitting at right angles when setting up a section of my layout. I use the 3 foot level as a straight edge to check for sags. But once I am satisfied the subroad bed is OK I just eyeball the cork and the track.

I use Elmers white glue to glue the cork and track and use sections of board and books the weight it down until dry.

Since I heard good arguments that the ballast should be put in after all the scenery I have not done that yet.

To continue from here, I was always told not to waste money on expensive cork track bed but to purchase a roll of cheap laminate floor underlay to use for sound proofing and bedding the track, it’s cheaper and more efficient than cork bed.

Paint it with a coat of brown and you’re off.

To attach the track to the wood I use Fleischmann screws as they are easier to attach and remove if necessary than nails.

[Benjamin Maggi]

I would recommend using Alcohol and not dish washing detergent in the "wet water" that you use to soak the ballast with prior to glue application. In my opinion it breaks down the surface tension better, doesn't leave bubbles, and is just as cheap or cheaper. Any rubbing alcohol will do. For N scale, where even a little disturbance will show, I spray everything with 50/50 water and alcohol and not just a few drops. It is cheap enough, and I would rather pay more now then in redoing stuff cause the glue never absorbed properly.

Just my 2 cents.
Ben

[Anonymous]

I use 2 levels sitting at right angles when setting up a section of my layout. I use the 3 foot level as a straight edge to check for sags. But once I am satisfied the subroad bed is OK I just eyeball the cork and the track.

I use Elmers white glue to glue the cork and track and use sections of board and books the weight it down until dry.

Since I heard good arguments that the ballast should be put in after all the scenery I have not done that yet.

[Adelie]

As for question 1, I do use a level to check that the rails or level, or at least not leaning any to the outside of a curve. I'm a believer in what others may consider excessive testing. I use a level to test the subroadbed before I put on the roadbed, test the roadbed before I put on the track, and then test the tack.

Even with all that, as soon as the level is put down, I run various combinations of cars at various speeds forwards and backwards (being pulled and pushed) to make sure everything is okay. I'm looking for any derailments, leaning and wobbling, and listening for anything that sounds wrong. The last thing I want to do is move along thinking a section is done and later have to go back to it.

I'm going to put down the ballast after the trackwork is done, so I can't help with question 2 or 3.

[selector]

Using a bullseye bubble level sounds like a good way to check track, but just watching your rolling stock being towed at medium-slow speed (10-20 mph in scale speed) should reveal any unwanted ripples and disparate track heights.

Glueing track is fairly straightforward: pour sand or other material, adjust shape with a fine brush (keep the stuff away from the rail sides where the flanges will run), and dribble the solution described above on what you have used. Make sure to wipe your track surface VERY CAREFULLY before any spilled glue solution dries there. Also, run a piece of rolling stock over that area to clear the flange paths. Drying time depends on ambient humidity. Expect a couple of days if your layout room, or part of the country where you live, is typically above 70% humidity.

[IRONROOSTER]

I put an eye down at the track and sight along it looking for kinks, high spots, etc. I suppose you could use a level, but the distance is so short across the tracks that I'm not sure it would be any better.

I don't glue my track I use black track nails. The heads are so thin that once in they blend with the tie.

There seem to be a lot of dfferent ways to lay track. Try out a few suggestions here and find one you like that works for you.

Enjoy
Paul

[stokesda]

To answer your second question... I'm in the process of doing this very thing on my first HO layout right now. I'm planning to glue cork roadbed to the plywood base with construction adhesive (Liquid Nails for Projects, PL-300, or similar). Once that's done and dried, then I'll glue the track to the cork roadbed. Once that's done and dried, I'll add the ballast last (i.e. not before or during tracklaying - after the track is already in place).

There's lots of stuff published on how to apply ballast, but basically, you do a little bit at a time. Sprinkle the dry ballast on, then move and shape it with a small paintbrush. When it's all set where you want it, give it a gentle misting of alcohol/water (or water with a drop of dish detergent, or whatever). Then use an eye dropper with 50/50 white glue & water and dribble the mixture onto the wet ballast.... Oh, by the way, make sure you keep ballast and glue and stuff away from your turnout points so they don't get fouled up.

Hope this helps. Cheers,

[Seamonster]

I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses to your questions because everyone has his/her own favourite way of laying track and ballasting. I'll offer mine to start.

1) I presume you mean to see if one rail is higher than the other. No, but it sounds like a good idea.

2) It's best to get the track properly in place before applying ballast. Some glue it, some pin it, some nail it. I used to use brass pins to hold the track in place, and once it was satisfactory, I'd apply the ballast then remove the pins. I model in N scale, and now I use HO scale track spikes instead of the pins and I leave them in place. They don't go through the cork and into the plywood like the pins did and their black colour disappears in the ballast.

3) You'll get a lot of different answers on this one. I use a 50/50 mixture of white glue (I buy it in big bottles at the hardware store) and water with a few drops of dish detergent added to break the surface tension. First I soak, and I mean soak, the ballast with water that has a few drops of detergent added, then soak it with the glue mixture. I use the same thing for securing scenery. There's lots of different formulations for this, and I'm sure you'll hear about them all.

[aartlib]

Do you use a level across the rails to true up any errors?
Do you,and, how do you wet your ballast before gluing down your track?
What formulation do you use to glue down the track?