Big Trouble on Tater Mountain

[jacon12]

Chip, if that doesn't work I'd be tempted to model a road construction crew there, ditch.. flagmen and all. Good luck with it.
Jarrell

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12

How long is the crack? Is hiding it with 'scenery'... like rocks, grass etc. , out of the question?
Jarrell

It is where the road meets level and it is right in front. I'm sure it will be worked out. I just got some construction cauking gun foam adhesive and if that don't hold it.............................................................I'll send it to Life Like for repair.

[jacon12]

How long is the crack? Is hiding it with 'scenery'... like rocks, grass etc. , out of the question?
Jarrell

[selector]

Okay, Chip, then your only practical recourse is to invert the mountain in some form of cradle (bunched towels and blankets), and then go to town on the bottom using a wire brush. You will be amazed at how effective a technique that is. It will go fairly quickly. Just go in different directions and use loooong, light strokes. Check the bottom frequently for flatness with a piece 2X4, a long evel, whatever. When you get it close, you can always do some sanding with a sanding block. Then, invert the mountain and test it for fit. If it will help, you could paint the layout with some latex paint where it will sit, and just place it where you want it, with the right orientation. Lift and inspect the bottom, and see where the paint is...and isn't. The high spots will be painted. Invert mountain and refine the base. That should be it!

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by selector

Would it be possible to shave the underside of the whole mountain to get it to sit closer to the base? May sound stupid, but that is what comes to mind based on your image; hard to tell otherwise. Or, could you possibly slit (yes, again) along the inside kerb of the road, where it meets the mountain slope? Start it about 10-12" up the road from the lifted bottom, slit it on the road's inside edge, right through to the mountain base to free it completely, and then just glue and weight it to the base as we have suggested.

My first impulse was to cut away the bottom, but I don't like it for a couple reasons. If I cut it away I'm not sure I get it flat. Also the texture is pretty fragile.

The picture you see is older. The mountain is already textured and painted. On weekend Photo fun, you might be able to see why I don't like the option of splitting the mountain by the road. There is a rock face on the vertical and a water runoff gully along the road.

[grandeman]

I've had good results on foam with Ailene's Tacky Glue. There's several types, get the stuff in the purple bottle at Wally World. It's designed for high tack (it's thick) when wet. Pin it in place for a couple of days to let it dry completely. Works well for laying flex track too.

[bogp40]

spacemouse,
Sounds like a job for the"super glue", No not CA, But ceramic tile cement. I haven't found any other adhesive that can hold like it. Shove some under the problem areas w/ a shingle tip and weight it overnight with some faily heavy objects. Filling or patching may only be a temperary fix, later after completed scenery the weak spot can continue to move.
Tile cement troweled on foam (w/ notched trowel) gives a good initial tack and the air trapped in the layers gives a suction and allows for drying. Look how long wall tiles will stay put- up to 30+ years. I use it to fasten all sorts of plaster castings, rubble, etc. Works like poor man's goo.
Bob K.

[selector]

Would it be possible to shave the underside of the whole mountain to get it to sit closer to the base? May sound stupid, but that is what comes to mind based on your image; hard to tell otherwise. Or, could you possibly slit (yes, again) along the inside kerb of the road, where it meets the mountain slope? Start it about 10-12" up the road from the lifted bottom, slit it on the road's inside edge, right through to the mountain base to free it completely, and then just glue and weight it to the base as we have suggested.

[West Coast S]

I think Durams Water Putty, the dry mix you add water to is the greatest invention since the electric light bulb. [:D] Sure beats the ole "Homosote Soup" method.

[SpaceMouse]

FYI: You'll notice two roads. One on the left and the other coming down off the hill in the center. Those are the parts that are high on the layout.

[rrinker]

Well, he DID say that's why he named it Tater Mountain...

[selector]

Good one, Randy. [(-D]

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Well, since you've gotten plenty of serious responses already...


You could take it to the Nth degree and just whip up some mashed taters and fill in the crack!

Just promise you'll call if UFOs start landing. [:D]

--Randy

There have been sightings. I'll try to get a picture.[:D]

[rrinker]

Well, since you've gotten plenty of serious responses already...


You could take it to the Nth degree and just whip up some mashed taters and fill in the crack!

Just promise you'll call if UFOs start landing. [:D]

--Randy

[dehusman]

Gorilla glue, any of the tube adhesives made for plastic foam (Liquid nails for foam). Squirt the glue under it and clamp it down with weights or a couple drywall screws.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

How about wood door shims?

[SpaceMouse]

I'll check out the contact cement. I can always fill it in later if I have to.

The problem with filling it below the foam is that it is a road that slopes to the plywood base. I would have to extend the road and it would look wierd. Cutting and bending it down will mess up the rock texture I've created with a dead zone...

I'll give the contact cement a try.

[orsonroy]

Why not just fill in the crack with Great Stuff? I use it to fill in all the gaps in my foam-based layout, and it works great. Once the foam in a can is dry, I just carve it to shape with a sharp knife and a sanding block (the palm rasps don't work).

[tstage]

Chip,

I like Crandell's idea of the plaster. If it's really a 3/8" thick gap, you could cut a thin piece of foam to wedge in the gap, then shape it to the rest of the mountain. Another idea. How 'bout contact cement? They make latex version that holds well.

Tom

[GMTRacing]

Chip,
it may be a silly question, but did the foam warp up or has something shifted and pushed it down ? I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive spray to fix my foam to wood and white glue for foam to foam and had good luck. Just let the spary adhesive tack up first per instructions. It can be weaseled into small cracks/gaps no problem. regards, J.R.

[selector]

Dehumidifier is in order if white glue is still wet days later. I used PL300 on my foam, with mountains of old Sky and Telescope mags to hold it all together and flat. I called it a good bond within the next 6 hours, generally. Of course, I have a dehumid.

If you want a quick fix, Chip, slice the ramp at some point near the flat land, or base, and fill in the resultant gap(s) with sculptamold or plaster, or use plaster cloth. It will be easier to get a bond if the foam will then lie flat on its own.

[MisterBeasley]

I've used Liquid Nails for Projects to hold 2-inch pink foam to everything. It seems to hold as long as I want it to, but it's nice enough to release if I attack it with a putty knife. When I put it down, I emptied an entire shelf of my wife's unused cookbooks and used them for weight. I've got to remember to keep that Soups and Stews book out - it looked pretty good, and some of those recipes might be fine after a hard day when I've been workin' on the railroad.

[SpaceMouse]

Well, Tater Mountain made a big set forward with the undercoat and texture, but a problem has developed. Where the road comes down and skirts the mountain, the foam has pulled up and is about 3/8 of an inch off the plywood base.

It will go back with pressure, but I'm wondering how to attach it. I don't think caulk would do it. Liquid Nails doesn't work with foam. I tried guing the mountain together with white glue and 3 days later it was still wet. .

Any suggestions?