Proto 2000 S1

[rrinker]

Well, looks like you already got it all sorted out.

If I get another one, i wouldn;t use the DH163L0 again. I just had one handy. I would go with the golden white LEDs and use a smaller decoder, like a TCS M1. Dollars to donuts I'd hardwire it in, too - completely removing the existing socket and board would allow even more room for the decoder to fit inside.
Do NOT skip the step of adding the new orange wire, regardless of which decoder you end up using. Without it, one derailment and poof, there goes the decoder.

--Randy

[tstage]

gabbyjj,

First of all - GOOD choice in switchers! [^][tup][tup][tup][^] The P2K S1 is a real beaut and I have been very pleased with mine. Nice detailng and runs very smoothly at low speeds. I hope you didn't fork out too much for her.

Here's Randy's link that Chip was referring to:

http://community.webshots.com/album/163958178NgaXTy

Randy put together a very handy visual "How to" for both isolating the motor on the P2K S1, as well as installing the decoder.

Unlike the others, I went with a smaller Lenz Z-scale decoder that was recommended by Bruce Petrarca at Litchfield Station. It's a bit more expenisve than the others mentioned by Sam and Chip. (I had just purchased a Bachmann EZ Command system and mainly went with the smaller Lenz decoder because I was testing out an hypothesis.) Either the Digitrax DH163LO or the TCS T1 decoder should work well for you.

gabbyjj, if you are going to the trouble of isolating the motor and installing a decoder in your S1, I would also encourage you to replace the headlight with a 3mm LED. What a difference! Here's a couple of sample pics to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about: (Sorry they aren't better ones. [:(])


Proto 2000 S1 with new LED


Head on shot of 2-8-2 Mikado with replaced LED



The LED will put out a much stronger, more prototypical light than the incondescent one that comes in the switcher. I used a "golden-white" LED in mine. No comparison!!!

gabbyjj, do keep in mind that if you do decide to switch to an LED, you'll also need to solder in an in-line 750 ohm resistor so that the LED doesn't go "poof". Be sure to also place some black heat-shrink around the base of the LED so that the light is concentrated out through the lense of the headlight.

Keep us posted on your progress...

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

I have a Digitrax as well. I called Tony's Trains and he fixed me up with the one for an N scale unit. Fit right in.

In addition to the motor post, you have to do something with the light. You either need to put in a 240 ohm resistor or switch it to 12 V.

For dealing with the post rrinker has a photo essay on his site. I don't have the URL book marked at work, but I'm sure Randy will see this and post it soon.

[samgolden]

I have used the Digitrax DH163LO. Before you install the decoder, one of the motor leads/connections is grounded to the frame and the corresponding wire on the plug is hooked to the frame also. These two connections MUST be unhooked from the frame.
It is the Orange wire from the plug and it is fastened to a screw, under the front headlight . Had a hard time getting the screw out. This wire (and motor) must be insulated from the frame, no matter what decoder you use.

Sam

[Anonymous]

What is the best decoder to use in the P2K S-1's, would like to use a one piece plug in if possible. thanks for any input