new here... and need block control help

[Anonymous]

I'll look for the atlas book next time we are near a (good) train store. We understand the need to gap (we'll use the kato insulated connectors), but weren't clear about where we need/want to "block" or insulate things... like frog-to-frog connections, etc.

I also understand that power routing turnouts (the only choice in kato) complicates things.... so that's the sort of stuff we are looking for.

Regarding DCC, we will probably end up there "someday". If we wire with the common-rail (where we gap only one set of rails), will that work for DCC, or should we gap both sides for DCC?

Thanks to everyone, look forward to getting to know the site.

[tstage]

malexenko,

Welcome to the forum! [:)] Good to have you and your son aboard!

The Atlas book is a good one. It includes block wiring, switches, relays, reverse loops, and toggles, as well as an introduction to DCC (Atlas, of course). If you and your son ever think you may want to venture into DCC sometime down the line, I would encourage you to start wiring your layout with that thought in mind.

Again, malexenko, welcome to the forum!

Tom

[hubbabubba2]

Single-throw switches lets you toggle back and forth between the power packs, maybe god for the main line. Double-throw switches also lets you disconnect the track to park an engine or train, for example in a staging yard, while you keep on running two other trains.
Mattias

[Anonymous]

Dave,
Since I isolate everything I got something for free. Thanks for pointing it out as I truly never'd of seen it.
Mike

[dehusman]

I you consider only the main track switches, those on sidings or junctions, not industries, a quick rule of thumb is any track with a frog on each end needs insulating joints.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

Atlas has a great book on wiring layouts and of course promoting their line of switches. The essentials are one rail is common and can be continuous and only requires it to be wired at one spot. The other rail needs to be cut at both end of the block. The cut can create derailing problems if not filled with something. The gap can be filled with a piece of strip plastic glued in the gap and filed to shape or insulated track connectors. The insulated track connectors can cause a gap on the other side. I use two insulated joiners at the end of each block to eliminate the gaposess problems and wire both rails in each block. Electrical switches between the power source and the track determine which power source and which direction. There are single power packs with dual control but it's generally regarded as best practice to have two separate power sources.

[Anonymous]

My son and I are discovering this hobby together and have started out first n-scale layout.

We are working with Kato unitrack and have started with a 36"x80" hollow-core door for our base. We've gone down the path of "pink foam", Woodland Scenics risers and plaster cloth. So far, so good.

Where I'm scratching my head is how to wire the layout we've designed (we are doing block control, not DCC). We're looking for tips on how to wire for block control for two trains where we have alot of power routing switches.

I thought I could include a drawing of our layout in this posting, but didn't see an obvious way to do that.

Anyway, we've been lurkers for a while and decided to jump into the fray. Hopefully over time we can offer advice instead of just looking for it. BLOCKED SCRIPTinsertsmilie('[;)]')