Glueing tracks around curves

[jacon12]

This question sorta goes along with the Captains question on glueing track. I've not yet started to lay track myself, but I sure have been thinking on it hard, and I was wondering about flex track on curves ...
this stuff has a natural tendency to want to straighten right back out when you 'curve' it. So when laying flex track around curves do you have to use nails or weights to hold it to the roadbed until the "glue" (whatever type you're using) sets?
I'll remember to NOT glue down the switches!
Jarrell (Jacon)

[IRONROOSTER]

I use track nails to hold my track in place. I haven't glued anything in place and have had no problems. All my curves are minmum 36" radius, smaller may be a problem.
Enjoy
Paul

[RichS1]

When I lay track on a curve with flex track. I do not cut the ends square because one rail is longer than the other. I thread the longer rail through the ties and and soilder the joint.
This way the joints are stagared and it make a smoother curve. I too us nails on homasoate road-bed

[orsonroy]

I mark my centerline, precut and test fit the flextrack, remove the track, add the adhesive, lay the track, and hold it in place with pushpins (the colorful ones for bulletin boards) until the glue (well, caulk in my case) until it dries. Pushpins are cheap, work well, and have a handy handle.

[jacon12]

I appreciate the tips! I think I'm going to go with the glue method.
Thanks again..
Jacon

[scole100]

If you use Peco brand flex track, it will not try to straighten back out. It is designed to take the curve that you put into it and stay there. VERY nice stuff to use.

[challenger3802]

I found that it was easier to marry up the two bits of flex track, solder both rails in place, then shape around the bend. Pin down, glue in place then remove the pins once fully dry.

(In this way the tracks don't try and undo themselves from where you want them before gluing).

Ian

[simon1966]

I use Atlas flextrack.

I solder 2 3' sections together before I lay the track. (Remove 2 or 3 ties from the ends being joined.)

Make sure the flexible moving track is on the same side! I alway put it on the inside of the curve.

I use liquid nails on cork roadbed to glue the track. A thin bead down the middle, spread thin. I position the track and pin in place with push pins to hold the track while it sets. (A couple of hours)

This method has worked well for me.

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by scole100

If you use Peco brand flex track, it will not try to straighten back out. It is designed to take the curve that you put into it and stay there. VERY nice stuff to use.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by challenger3802

I found that it was easier to marry up the two bits of flex track, solder both rails in place, then shape around the bend. Pin down, glue in place then remove the pins once fully dry.

(In this way the tracks don't try and undo themselves from where you want them before gluing).

Ian

Hmmmm... Ian, I don't understand "marry up". I think it is you go ahead and solder two long sections together?
Jarrell

[jacon12]

QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

I use Atlas flextrack.

I solder 2 3' sections together before I lay the track. (Remove 2 or 3 ties from the ends being joined.)

Make sure the flexible moving track is on the same side! I alway put it on the inside of the curve.

I use liquid nails on cork roadbed to glue the track. A thin bead down the middle, spread thin. I position the track and pin in place with push pins to hold the track while it sets. (A couple of hours)

This method has worked well for me.

Thanks Simon for the info!
Jarrell