Kadee manual uncoupling

[dzamzow]

Rix is the right manufacturer, but the u-shaped product is not the right answer. Try their N scale uncoupling tool. It has a small blade on the end that works perfectly in Kadees as well as other brands of HO couplers.

[Anonymous]

I like the KD uncoupling tool. It appears to be made out of the same engineering plastic used for loco handrails. It is really slippery when you spin it inside of the coupler knuckles. I tried the bamboo skewers with the graphited end. I found that the wood at the point has rough spots that catch on the coupler faces. It will work but it doesn't have the nice smooth feel of the KD device.

[chateauricher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by challenger3802
Thanks guys, I'll have to track down a skewer here in the UK and try the pencil trick on it. I had contemplated the Rix uncoupler, but with the tax and import costs it was not an option I could take.

Ian,

Look for bamboo skewers in either the grocery store's "ethnic" foods section, or in the kitchenwares department of any department store. A package of 20 or so shouldn't cost you more than a couple dollars (or about £1 ).

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gtirr

If you go up to the KD web site, KD has just announced (6mo. ago) a nice manual un-coupling tool AND a knuckle spring tool all-in-one for a real cheap price.
Your hobby shop should have them in stock by now.
gtr

Yep, just saw one two days ago at my LHS. I almost picked one up then but didn't because I have a spring tool and a Rix handheld. Next time I'll give one a try! Walthers has them in stock for a whole $1.95: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/380-241

[Anonymous]

If you go up to the KD web site, KD has just announced (6mo. ago) a nice manual un-coupling tool AND a knuckle spring tool all-in-one for a real cheap price.
Your hobby shop should have them in stock by now.
gtr

[BR60103]

I've worked a layout where we had dowels with wire stuck in the end and an angle bent on the end of the wire. The wire is used to pull the kadee uncoupling pin over.
When switching with a switchlist, I've sometimes used my pencil or pen on the trip pin.
I don't know if the Kadee magnets will affect the tension-lock couplings, although some of mine dangle low enough to strike the uncouplers.

[Anonymous]

Well I guess I got skewered for not knowing that little trick.

[selector]

Thanks for the question, and thanks for the skewer tip, fellas. I had not known this, and immediately got up from the computer to try it out (have bag of skewers for Aggro-trees). Darned if it didn't work like a ***!! Kewl.

[nfmisso]

You can make a copy of the Rix for a few cents. You need two NbFeB watch magnets and some material (plastic, metal, wood) for the U bracket.

[Anonymous]

Is the Rix unit the one with two magnets mounted in an inverted "U" shaped moulding? If so, you can get hold of them over here for about £5 - try "Totally Trains" in Ross on Wye (they advertise in Continental Modeller, Model Rail, and a few other magazines). I bought one from there a few months ago - it's useful for situations where my fixed magnets aren't in the right places. I've run stock with Briti***ension-lock couplings over these magnets with no problems at all - what couplings are you using?

[challenger3802]

Thanks guys, I'll have to track down a skewer here in the UK and try the pencil trick on it. I had contemplated the Rix uncoupler, but with the tax and import costs it was not an option I could take.

Ian

[rrinker]

Hopper cars too, with the weights in the slope sheets. I had the idea the other day that perhaps the Rix tool would work better if instead of those big magnets, it has just two small ones at the very tips - just to attract the air hoses. I don't see the upper part of those long magnets actually contributing much anyway. Another of those "roundtoit" projects...

--Randy

[dehusman]

I use skewers in the knuckles.

I have also used a small jeweler's screwdriver.

Some people use a skewer or bent brass rod to pull the air hoses apart (I have never been able to master that.)

Some also use the Rix magnetic uncoupler, but I don't like it particularly, especially if you use Athearn engines, the magnet "sticks' to the steel handrail stanchions on the ends.

Dave H.

[rrinker]

I second that, they work nicely! Good trick with the pencil, I need to do that with mine.

DEFINITELY have some slack. Real Kadee couplers simply will NOT uncouple if there is tension on the couplers. You can twist and twist that stick of wood all you want, and they won't come open unless there is some slack in the train.

--Randy

[cwaldman]

I use Shishkabob skewers ( at Lou Sassi's suggestion) found in the grocery store. Long wooden ones with a point. I run a pencil over the pointed edge for about an inch to give it a little slippery-ness. I hold it in the top of my ear when not using.

Stick into the attached couplers and twist. It will also help to have a bit of slack.

Works easily and perfect everytime. Plus they are cheap. around a buck for dozen. When you are done or one wears, cut, paint them and use them for telepohone poles with transformers glued on top.

Cletus

[challenger3802]

Hi all,

Can anyone point me in the direction of a manual uncoupling device for kadee couplers. My layout has both kadees and british outline metal couplings, so using the magnets is out of the question.

I've tried using my hand as an uncoupling device but in hard to reach places a tool would be much easier and a tad more realistic!

Thanks
Ian