Benchwork - Preference for Leg Construction

[Anonymous]

In one of the benchwork construction books, it said that a 2x2 could support 1000 pounds so a set of 4 legs should hold up most any railroad. You do need the braces in both directions to reduce the wobblies.

[jkeaton]

2x2s are plenty - we used those to build temporary staging for a play, and 10 years later the staging units (designed to be portable) were still in use! Bracing, however - whether 1x2 or plywood gussets - is critical. The plywood has the advantage in stiffness and stability - 1/4 inch is fine, but attach it in multiple places (so in case of movement, the screws/nails don't tear a hole).

Jim

[grayfox1119]

Just remember, the thinner the wood, the more susceptible it is to warping and checking. You have a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, as well as $$$ sitting on top of those legs........it always astounds me that people will pay hundreds of dollars for one loco, but can't spend a few bucks once during construction to use 2x3's for legs, or 2x4 for legs if you have your layout in a basement where it is prone to dampness or some water on the floor. Your house is only as strong as the foundation that it sits on.
Plan wisely....no suffering later.

[Anonymous]

As we all know, a 1 x 4 is really more like a 3/4 x 3 3/4. So what I do is use a 1 x 4 joined along its length with a 1 x 3. That way both sides of the L are the same width. I join them with a horizontal 1 x 4, attached with carraige bolts, lock washers and wing nuts. Very sturdy.

Trevor

[turbine682]

Hey all,

Thanks for the info. I'm sure other folks are getting some good tips, too!

--Ed

[CBQ_Guy]

This is just my opinion and experience on the subject, and is worth every penny you paid for it!

The "standard" leg for a layout in my just under 50 years in the hobby would be the 2x2. Having said that, they have always seemed a bit too flimsy for me to be comfortable with, though many who use them that I've quizzed on their use have been very satisfied. And to make their use even more questionable in my mind is that in recent years the lumber has been made even smaller than the traditional 2by of old. If I did use them on a layout I would feel somewhat better using a LOT of cross bracing with long, diagonal 1x2's at as close to 45 degrees as I could get them for maximum strength/stability.

As a kid I learned to build my first 4x8 train table from a slot car magazine! For legs, they recommended making what basically could be called an L-Post using two pieces of 1x6 lumber. These were bolted into each corner of the layout framing. I have used these, or some variation of them on a couple small layouts and have had good success.

My most recent layout in the old house, which was built as an around the room layout, in an area of roughly 16 by 11 feet, used a couple of the "L-Post" legs I had saved from older table type layouts, and the rest I felt more comfortable using 2x4 legs. The first time I got some flooding in that train room, which was in my basement, I wished I had used treated lumber for the legs and I slipped some scrap pieces of same under EACH leg of the layout, AFTER removing each leg one at a time and cutting their length down so that the combined length of the treated scraps in addition to the existing non-treat legs, came out the same height as the layout itself. Basically a real PITA project.

Recently I have discovered that you can now buy a 2x3 which to me seems to perfect to use for legs -- not too thin and not too thick. I would go with these personally IF they came in pressure treated or if I wasn't building in a basement.

On the new layout I will be building in my basement I will be using pressure treated 2x4's for legs. I got them for free from one of my past jobs, in the form of four foot long 2x8's which I have ripped some already into two, 2x4's. Although I am toying with using a cantilevered support system, at least in some of the narrower areas of benchwork, eliminating the need for legs altogether. A couple friends of mine around here have already done that on their layouts and it seems to work well.

Hope some of this rambling helps!

[TBat55]

2x2s warp too much in my NY cellar so I use 1x4 and 1x3 together to form an "L" (looks like two 1x3s"). Layout is sections bolted together small enough to get out of cellar doors. Braces are 1x4 about a foot long because legs are removeable.
You might want to consider this:



folded up:

(leg at right is for control panel)

Yesterday I turned my 5x9 layout 90-degrees using one hand (8 casters).

[northern_blues]

Yeah, I'm using 2X2"s and that's lots.

On my first table, I ripped some old 2X4's so the actual dimensions are 1 3/4" X 1 1/2 to use as legs. For the next couple of tables, I bought 2X2's from HD. The legs are braced and bolted to the L-girders using 1/4 inch bolts. I use T-nuts and carriage bolts and adjusting nuts in combo as leg levellers as my basement floor is poured concrete.

-Dave

[Anonymous]

I've tried the 2x2 seems ok for the legs never really had a problem thats was some time ago.When i get started on my layout I'll probley use 2x2 for the legs.

[rrinker]

2x2's are PLENTY, as long as you have the proper braces. But HD is the only place left aroud me to get lumber, and they don't carry 2x2's, except as deck railings. And I don't have a table saw to rip down 2x4's, which is probably the most economical way. So I ended up using 2x3's. Well, at least it won't fall down...

--Randy

[ndbprr]

Anybody tried PVC pipe? It seems like it could be made quite sturdy with a couple of tess and braces.

[turbine682]

Thanks to all for the info. "Stand on 4 x 8" is just an expression indicating that any benchwork built is not weak and wobbly.

I've built 2 tables using the L-Shape 1 x 4 legs - these have lasted for years and several moves.

Good article in a recent MR about using 1 1/2 PVC caps as part of leg leveling device.

Aside....

We have a work table (not used!) in our store that isn't even framed correctly. Someone used 3" L-brackets to attach 4 x 4 posts to 1 x 4 rails. Pu***his baby from the end and watch it swing back and forth like a pendulum!

Again, thanks.... happy railroading!

--Ed

[HAZMAT9]

Just finished up my bench and used 2 X 2's. In fact, for a 5 by 9 layout I used 8, 4 for the ends and 4 in the middle for extra stability. I placed levelers on the bottom of the legs as well to keep the table straight.

[Anonymous]

1x4's in a L shape with 1/2 inch plywood on the table top. Seems to be working fine and looks better than a 2x4.

[vsmith]

My layout uses prefab metal bench legs that the framework is attached to, also using metal sawhorses for the larger area, both types of these legs luckily are equal in height and have a 1ton capacity each, so I'm not worried about how much crap I put on top. The legs and sawhorses were from Home Despot.

[IRONROOSTER]

For legs on my layout I use 2 1x4's glued together in an L shape. Makes for a very sturdy leg. They have held up very well for 10 years now. I did it this way so I wouldn't need cross bracing.
Enjoy
Paul

[cwclark]

I use "L" girder benchwork and everything on it are 1" x 4"s except the cross braces which are 1/2" x 3/4"...I used to use 1/2" plywood but it began to sag on a layout I built in the 80's so I use nothing but 3/4" plywood from then on...it's heavier, stiffer, and more***bersome to use, but the end result is a great looking roadbed that won't bend, sag, or warp...Chuck

[orsonroy]

2x2s and 1/4" plywood should be more than enough for legs. 2x4s are "too much gun", and you'll swear every time you have to move them. Heck, my Ntrak modules are supported by 1" PVC legs and they work great.

Stand on a 4x8 layout? Why would you want to do that?

[turbine682]

Thanks for the info!

FYI to all,

The tables are intended to support N, HO, and O gauge layouts - basically "flat" layouts that do not require the use of risers and cleats (as in Open Grid or L-Girder).

Additionally, the tables are meant to be free-standing in a room vs. benchwork that can be attached to walls.

TIA,

--Ed

[dwRavenstar]

Personally I've always used 2x2's without gussetts but then again all three of my layouts (2 in N-scale and now in HO) have been attached to the wall across the back.

dwRavenstar

[turbine682]

Good day to all!

Few questions regarding your preference for Leg Construction. The table sizes range 4' x 6' up to 4' x 8'. Frames are constructed using (crappy - I hate boards) 1' x 4's with appropriate frame cross braces. Table tops consist of 1/2" pine plywood. I've seen several plans that utilize 2' x 2' legs or 2' x 4' legs. Regardless of the chosen legs, I would use the appropriate cross bracing and long bracing consisting of 1' x 2's. ( I have several MR Benchwork Manuals as reference)

1. Which do you prefer? i.e., 2' x 2' or 2' x 4's? I'd like the tables to be sturdy enough to stand on if necessary.

2. Do you think 1/4" plywood gussets are strong enough regardless of leg material? Or do you recommend 1/2" plywood?

3. If I stick with 2' x 2' legs, what do you recommend for gusset thickness (see question 2)

Thanks in advance... Happy Railroading!

--Ed