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Attaching roadbed to subroadbed

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Attaching roadbed to subroadbed
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 4, 2005 10:29 AM
I am confused as to what method is best when attachng cork roadbed to the subroadbed. I have read utilizing nails, glue, or caulk. Will nailing increase noise? If gluing, is it more difficult to alter track plans (inserting turnouts) than if caulk is used? If caulk is utilized, which is the best product? Will caulk, after drying, cause cause distortion of the roadbed? Is there other methods? I realize that everyone has their preferred method, but am trying to decide which one is best. Would appreciate thoughts of wisdom. [8)][:)][:)]
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Posted by Javern on Friday, March 4, 2005 10:47 AM
carpet tape
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Posted by cwclark on Friday, March 4, 2005 12:14 PM
I use a bead of white glue or wood glue between the sub roadbed and the cork roadbed and tap in a few Atlas rail spike nails with a small tack hammer to hold it in place until the glue dries...I don't use very many nails, just enough to hold it in place..maybe 5 to 8 per cork roadbed section...more nails in curves..just enough to hold the curves in place...Chuck

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Posted by orsonroy on Friday, March 4, 2005 12:15 PM
Carpet tape is absolutely horrible for laying anything but temporary track arrangements. Humidity and dust will cause the glue to debond after only a month or two. I've tried it on several Ntrak modules, as well as a section of my HO home layout, and will never touch the stuff again. Stay away from spray adhesive too.

That said, you can use just about any other sort of adhesive or nails, depending on what you prefer. For traditional layout construction (wood, homasote, etc) nails are the traditional favorite. They DO transmit noise to the benchwork though, and nails can either throw track out of gauge if installed too tightly, or cause lots of derailments if added too loosely by catching the coupler trip pins. Glues and caulks all pretty much work the same, and hold track well. TOO well for many people, which is their one downside. Latex caulk is generaly the best, since it doesn't hold track too aggressively, allowing you to move track if necessary, and it won't distort the roadbed in any way (neither will any other adhesive I've tried, and I've tried almost all of them). Caulk or glue is a must for foam-based layouts.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by simon1966 on Friday, March 4, 2005 1:51 PM
My subroadbed is foam and I used an ahesive caulk and this worked well. I also tried foam compatible liquid nails and this was fine also. It is easy enough to remove, just slide a blade under it.

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

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Posted by claycts on Friday, March 4, 2005 3:22 PM
Caulk? is this the silicone or the white latex for tub and bath?
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
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Posted by orsonroy on Friday, March 4, 2005 3:47 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

Caulk? is this the silicone or the white latex for tub and bath?


Yep. Caulk is the new "wonder adhesive" for model railroading. With many of us building foam-based layouts, adhesives are a must. We've been experimenting with every conceiveable adhesive, and caulk is quickly becoming a favorite. It works well, is available everywhere, and is inexpensive.

You can use either silicone or latex caulk, but they each do different things. Silicone caulk is a bit rubberier, so works better as a sound deadener. It also creates a REALLY strong bond, so is probably best for gluing together foam. The latex caulk has a weaker bond, but that means you can remove track without destroying it in the process.

I've used both, and have settled on using silicone for gluing foam to foam, and latex for gluing down track. You only need a small (1/8")bead of caulk down the centerline of the track for a good hold (speread out with a trowel), so a tube of caulk will last a LONG time.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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