Microengineering track

[Anonymous]

I currently have a lot of atlas code 100 flextrack but have really enjoyed the code83 stuff at my local club layout. Since I have yet to actually lay my track, I figure considering I like the look and functionality of code83 better, why lay code100 now if I'll more than likely just switch down the road?

In particular I'm impressed with the look of microengineering track I've seen on finished layouts.

However...I have yet to find any pictures of UNFINISHED track! My LHS doesn't carry microengineering products. I'd really like to see what their weathered track looks like as compared to their unweathered. I'd like to see if the dollar difference is really worth it.

Does anyone have pictures of either, particularly the pre-weathered stuff? I'd be most appreciative to see it.

[Anonymous]

The MicroEngineering code 100 looks very similar to Atlas code 83. You have to put them side by side to see the difference. The ME product has brown ties like the Atlas cd 83. They're smaller ties than the Atlas cd 100 product too.

The big difference is how you bend it for curves. Once you bend it, it stays bent!
I am replacing my Atlas code 100 turnouts with Peco code 100 and I am relplacing my Atlas code 100 track with ME code 100. There are a couple of places where I have Atlas code 83 and I will leave it in place. Once the ME 100 and the Atlas 83 are painted and weathered I don't think you can tell the difference unless you're a real nitpicker AND lookiing VERY closely.

I have had some problems with the Atlas turnouts and my DCC system. The problem does not happen with the Peco product so I'm swaping them out a few at a time.

Good luck on your layout.

Ed

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input. I guess I was really wondering if it was worth the extra buck to go with ME's pre-weathered product, or if I'm really further ahead to just do the weathering myself. Either way I'm planning to go with ME's code 83 flextrack on my main and code 70 on my sidings and yards. I've looked at Peco switches and it's what we use in my club, but have gotten to work with some Shinohara and really prefer that stuff. Cost isn't much of an issue, I was just wanting to know if the extra dollar for pre-weathered track was a waste or not...that's why I was hoping for a close-up picture, I wanted to see what the stuff looks like. I am a stickler on the appearance (hence ME track) because I plan to take a LOT of pictures, most of them close-ups at track level.

[wp8thsub]

QUOTE: Originally posted by actionplant

Cost isn't much of an issue, I was just wanting to know if the extra dollar for pre-weathered track was a waste or not...

The weathered rail is just the regular rail treated with a chemical metal blackener that works a lot like gun blue. I've heard that ME used to sell (still sells?) bottles of the weathering chemical. The ties look exactly the same. Picture track with brown plastic ties and dark brownish-black rails.

There's a photo of one part of my old layout on Blair Kooistra's site here:

http://www.wwvrailway.com/images/gbg40yard.jpg . Note the lower deck on the right side of the aisle, where a piece of unweathered ME code 83 ended up between weathered pieces. It's not a close-up but might help. Other shots showing finished track are elsewhere on the site: http://www.wwvrailway.com/gbg4.htm
.
I like using the weathered rail because it isn't easy to get the rail to blacken evenly once it's molded onto the tie strip due to what appears to be release agent residue on the rails, and the residue can be difficult to completely remove. It's worth it to me to avoid the hassle. Unlike paint, the blackener won't chip and leave shiny spots to kill realism later on. Blackened rail also has more "tooth" to hold the paint used for finishing the track before ballasting.

When the track's done, you won't see much of the "pre-weathering" of the rail, but determine if it's worth the extra cost to avoid what shows up when the inevitable happens and the paint chips. You will probably want to get something like "Blacken-It" (my bottle was purchased when the company was still called A-West) or gun blue to treat the turnout rails and joiners as well.

[Anonymous]

I don't like the pre-weathered track because it is hard to solder cleanly. I know you're supposed to clean it with a wire wheel, but it is an extra step. I am going to paint the track anyway because the tie color is wrong. I am ordering un weathered from now on...

As for looks, the pre-weathered looks great.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input guys.

[steel]

Call Microengineering at 800-462-6975. They will send you a sample of their track. Part No. 50-101. $.50 plus $1.00 for shipping.

[Anonymous]

I too have been wondering about Micro Engineering's weathered track as I have been making plans to build a model railroad, and I appreciate the questions and ideas offered above.

Micro Engineering does not offer any weathered turnouts. For this, they sell a "Rail Weathering Solution." http://www.internettrains.com/micenrailwea.html

What experience have folks had with this solution? Are the results just as good as the weathered flex track that they sell? Does one apply it with an artist's paint brush?

[wp8thsub]

QUOTE: Originally posted by donnigro
Micro Engineering does not offer any weathered turnouts. For this, they sell a "Rail Weathering Solution."

What experience have folks had with this solution? Are the results just as good as the weathered flex track that they sell? Does one apply it with an artist's paint brush?

I haven't used this product, but I have been under the impression that it's a chemical metal blackener. The primary problem with using blackener on plastic-tie track is getting any stray mold release or plastic residue off the rails before applying the blackener. I've used mineral spirits to clean rail, and it does as well as anything I've tried. Be especially careful to remove all of the soldering flux from rail joiners and such. Don't expect your results with blackener to look exactly like the pre-weathered track (they should be pretty close), but they're certainly better than shiny nickel silver, and more than adequate to serve as a base for a final coat of paint that will actually stick.

I scrub the rails with an old toothbrush dipped in mineral spirits, then apply blackener with a stiff artist's brush. Come back the next day with a spray of water to "deactivate" the blackener. If you leave too much of it on plastic ties for too long it can eat the plastic (ask how I know).