ran up from the basement to ask a question about soldering

[streettrains]

this just popped into my head[:p] while soldering downstairs...
I know I should solder the joints in the curves.. now is it necessary to solder everything?

what's the skinny[:I]

will leave computer on[^] ..back down to the basement

[egmurphy]

Short answer is "no", it's neither necessary nor desireable. Soldering everything can lead to problems with buckling due to expansion if it gets warm (may not be a big problem in your basement.) A few small gaps here and there solve that problem.

Some people may do it. My guess is that the vast majority do not.


Regards

Ed

[streettrains]

that is good to know.. I soldered most of the track underneath ( one long loop around..) so this will save time up top...

but definately the curves are a must.....
thanks

[dwRavenstar]

From my years as a tech/engineer and electronics instructor I recall that there are two reasons to avoid breathing the fumes when soldering:

1. It destroys your memory

2. [%-)]

Wait, I'll get it...............

[streettrains]

FUMES??? hey man what fumes....!!!!

breathe my friend breathe

been watching the fumes....

[JBCA]

I live in Calgary. Because of the NHL lockout, I've been fuming 'cause I can't watch theFlames!

[dwRavenstar]

de colorz, de colorzzzzzzzz

[streettrains]

de plane, de plane..

must be the FUMES......

I tend to hold my breath when soldering *LOL*

[RedSkin]

I think its time for me to get back to the Fumes....hehe Gotta love them....

[howmus]

How many of the connections should be soldered depends on severfal factors. If your layout is in the basement and your basement stays the same temp all year long and the humidity is controlled to stay about the same. Then you can solder most of the rail connections without problems. If, on the otherhand, your pike is a garage that is 105° in the summertime and 90% humidity, then changes to 45° in the winter and 10% humidity (my first attempt at a model railroad) then you will have problems whether you solder anything or not. I would leave some small gaps for expansion every 6 to 9 feet depending on your conditions. If you are using DCC, I would solder all connections that feed directly from each feeder drop and leave one between feeder drops as a gap for track expansion. My layout has almost all the connections soldered and I have had no problems at all.

[streettrains]

I have the temp change in my basement... will run a dehumidifier during the summer.... the basement can be cool in the summer and warm in the winter....

[lyctus]

May I pick up on this thread and skew it slightly ? I am wanting to read up on methods and techniques of soldering flextrack to avoid the hassle of cutting,scraping, teasing and cussing whilst laying flextrack on a curve. This has been alluded to in recent articles in MR, RMC but I don't recall a description or how to article. Can some-one give me a lead here please ?

[gmpullman]

Geoff...Flex track on a curve. The idea is to solder the rails while they are both straight so the joint does not kink while bending the curve. I use Walthers/Shinohara code 83 that is pretty stiff to curve. I'll lay the curve stopping about 6" short of the end of the last piece I laid, trim the inside rail which is always the longer one. Then closely bend the next section to lay and trim that inside rail so the joints are approxamitely across from each other. Solder the joiners while the rail is tangent and when the joint is cool, continue to gently re-curve the track along your radius so there is no kinking at the joint. Then use a #11 Exacto to trim the spikes off a 2 or 3 tie scrap section and slide it under the newly made joint. Apply just enough heat to soften the tie under the joiners to fill the gap under the new joint... all done!
If I'm laying Atlas code 100 I like to keep the "stiff" rail on the outside of the curve and the "floppy" rail on the inside... just my preference since the outside rail would be the more critical for maintaining the gauge and the contour of the curve.

[Anonymous]

Should joints along curves be soldered offset so that the 2 joints are not made at the same location? I remeber reading this somewhere.