Eliminating a duck under

[Anonymous]

My available space is a 6 by 7 foot rectangle. I am modeling in HO gauge and am planning a continous double loop mainline with a double crossover and two industrial sidings. I decided to build a mounted around the wall L-girder 18 inch shelf with a duck under along the room side of my layout. I have completed the benchwork, but believe that the duck under will deter me from developing my layout (sore knees and one bumped head already). I have purchased "How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork", "Practical Guide to HO Model Railroading", and The abc's of Model Railroading". They all say to avoid duck unders, but provide no directions, plans or alternatives on avoiding them.

I am seeking direction/advice on how to build a bridge/gate yet maintainin track alignment and how to wire it. I am planning to go DCC.

I have made a cardboard template of my proposed layout and it looks like an 18 inch shelf will not be wide enough for my plans or provide adequate work space in the middle of the layout (no I am not overweight).

Any direction, advice, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your time and efforts.

Rudy [:)] [:)]

[ndbprr]

You only have three choices:
1. a lift out section
2. A bridge that can be raised high enough to get under it
3. A hinged section

I'd reccomend #1 or 3. In the first clamp the section to the main framework and bore four holes through the movable section into the substrate. then you can glue four dowels into the removable section for perfect allignment. In #3 you do the same thing but you use a hinge on one side like a door hinge or piano hinge based on the width. it can either be raised vertically or moved horizontally. If vetrical make the hole for the pin horizintal to the ground and just pull it out when you want to raise the railroad. Years ago there was one in MR where the guy had a little pool of mercury in the bottom of the holes and used brass rods for the dowels. That way when the section was raised it cut off power for a distance on either side so nothing went into the great abyss.

[Jetrock]

Ways to avoid duckunders:

1. Point-to-point operation. If you don't have a loop, you don't need to go all the way around a room.

2. Lift-up or drop-down bridge. Solid benchwork and door hinges are a good way to accompli***his--piano hinges also come highly recommended. Wiring: Two wires leading to the track segments that drop out should be all you need. If you want you can install a "safety" switch that kills the track for a foot or so in either direction when your bridge is open.

3. Dog-bone track plan with a loop on either side of it.

Is your railroad area 6x7 feet TOTAL--like a walk-in closet?

[IRONROOSTER]

As you have learned, it's easy to say don't have a duck under. But when you have a small space up against walls, it's pretty hard to do and still get the most layout is the space. In my case I have a room 11x18 and built an around the room layout with a duckunder to get into the room (I rehung the door to swing outward). Because I needed the storage area under the layout, I built the layout with the track at 58". I built a permanent bridge across the doorway using two pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together. This gives me 56" of clearance for the duckunder. This has worked quite well even though I am 57 and not as limber or skinny as I used to be. I, also, feel the viewing angle is better at this height. So my thought is raise the layout and avoid the whole swinging gate/bridge problem.
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

There was an article in some issue of MR or a book that told you how to make a bridge for a walk-through into the room.

[jwar]

If you decide on a swing up, consider the flush mount kitchen door hinge. The pivot point will be above the rail a tad and clearence at the pivot point of the stuucture is easier to make.

I built three swing ups and used door hinges and one drop in. One is a strait track and the other two are much wider as 90 degree turns are mounten on them as well as a turnout and four tracks.. I believe the secret is building them bullet proof and quick to use.

If you use the drop in type, think where it will go when not in place. Mine was put on the scenery by a visitor and on a stool by another. It now has it own shelf to slide in into under the layout.

If you wi***oo, email me your address and I will shoot a few pics of them for you. Take care...John

[dehusman]

There is one other option. Raise the whole layout so you can walk under it without ducking. Then build a raised platform to stand on in the middle of the layout to operate it. You can have a drop hatch to cover the stairs so there is no hole to fall in.

With a 6x7 layout it souldn't be that hard to buid the center platform.

Dave H.

[jdolan]

I built a raise up bridge for our layout ,because both my wife and I have arthritus and don't do well with ducking and crawling. Was fairly simple because only 2 tracks cross it. Used door hinges and will be wired to cut power when raised up. It is 1/2 inch plywood with 1x3 frame under it, made it very sturdy, lines up on pins.
Jack

[Anonymous]

i saw it wonce done at a show ins mass. that they had put wires so you did not have any conectors the wires just go to the section on the platforme and to the section after it

[Anonymous]

If you build a hinge door to swing out make sure your track and opening are cut at a 40 degree or so angle. This makes sure that at least one wheel of your truck is on the tract as it runs over the gap.

[jwar]

Rudy.
Pics in the mail, let me know what you think....John

[grayfox1119]

As for cutting the power with whatever method of bridging you choose, you can buy push button switches at Radio Shack, and install them on the main support ( fixed support). When you lift the bridge, or section out/up, it instantly cuts power. It is a terrible thing to see your favorite engine take the deep 6.