Soldering Track Practice

[HAZMAT9]

While waiting for more funds to come in to purchase track, I decided to practice up on soldering a couple of pieces of old sectional track I had laying around to get the feel of it before tackling it on my good stuff. Here's what I did, can I get some feedback to see if I'm doing this right?

1) Removed one tie on both piecs

2) Cleaned soldering joints with scrubbing pad (not steel wool)

3) Added rail joiner

4) Applied flux to joint

5) Added clips to both sides of joint to take the heat

6) Soldered bottom side of rail joint and let the bead run the length of the joiner

6) Filed smooth with small metal hobby file

Only problem I had was a few small globs of solder on the side of the rail although the trucks of a few boxcars didn't seem to touch them. When filing, I'm afraid of filing too much causing a low spot in the rail, should I be using another type of file or can I use a dremel with a wire wheel? Don't know if I'm doing this right, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve

[2021]

It's normally best to solder the outsdies of each rail joiner. This can be done before or after installation of track (I usually will join two sections at a time for curves and none on tangents; I then solder all joiners and cut and insulate the blocks away from the joiners seperatally). By doing outside of rails with minimal solder, you don't have to file and it is not on the inside of the rail where the wheels will ride. Try to avoid filing as much as posible.
Ron K.

[HAZMAT9]

Forgot to mention that I soldered just the outside of the track and ran the bean up/down the rail. I guess I'll make some rail ties to make up for the pieces cut and insert them later. Steve

[Seamonster]

As far as filing solder, it is much softer than the rail, so if you file very carefully, you should be able to file down the solder without damaging the rail. When I'm soldering rail together (N scale) I pass the tip of the iron back and forth over the joint a couple of times while the solder is still liquid to prevent lumps. It usually works. Also, try to keep the amount of solder used to a minumum and let the joint get good and hot before applying the solder.
...Bob

[sailor38]

Steve:
I would NOT recommend using a Dremel or any other power tool to smooth the work. Unless you are EXTREMELY skillful and careful, you'll be through a lot more metal than you ever wanted in the blink of an eye.

Does this sound like "been there, done that?" [V]

Chuck

[HAZMAT9]

Thanks for all the info, yeah had a problem taking a bit too much off with the dremel, decided that wasn't a good tool to use for that. I let the bead of solder run back and forth on the outside of the rails, this seems to work fine....the rail joiner is tacked pretty strong and less chance of causing conflict with the trucks. I'm using a 45 watt iron and even that's pretty hot. Thanks all for the info...Steve [:)]

[snowey]

1) is it soldering ok?

2) is the joint solid?

3) do your trains run over it ok, and not "ride up"?

if the answer to all these is "yes", then I have another question: is that what you wanted? If the answer's "yes" then you're doing it right!

I've found, over the years, that soldering track is really finding a way that works for you, and then sticking with it!