easy or easier benchwork solution?

[DocDan]

I recently acquired a medium to large size layout that I would like to join with my existing medium to large size layout. The problem is it came without bencwork. Essentially it is handlaid track on true 3/4 inch wood.

I built the bencwork for my layout before my kids came along so time and money was not a factor. It is SOLID. Now, time is at a premium and I don't want to spend a great deal of time cutting wood and doing carpentery (the least favorite part of this hobby for me). Also, I would only be able to do it after hours and I don't want to wake th kids with noise from the basement.

My question is: is there an easy benchwork solution that won't break the bank. One idea was using unfinished wood book cases from the local arts and crafts store. They are pine and seem reasonably solid. I would use them at the ends of each section with 2x4 or 2x3 runners on top of the cases topped by the layout section. That was my idea. Has anyone done anything similar roi does anyone have a better or more efficient idea.

Help on this would be great since I am inching to get the super-sized layout going.


Thanks in advance,
Dan

[cwclark]

I like the L girder benchwork....it's solid and is especially good for running wires under the layout..it also is great for adding cleats and risers to bring the trains to different levels on the layout...here is my webshot page showing how i built my L girder benchwork...click the right arrow button and the next ten to twenty pictures show the benchwork with descriptions up to the cleat and riser building stage
http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/143341248VlGagO


...chuck

[dehusman]

Doing what you are suggesting will prove a pain later on.

Build open frame benchwork, 2x6 or 2x4 or what ever size you need "cells" of 1x4's with cross braces every 16-24". You can then support those cells on 2x2 legs or heavy duty plastic shelving units. Using the shelving units will make it harder to level.

Dave H.

[rrinker]

I actually HAD thought of using the bookcase idea at my old house. I even drew up details in 3rd PlanIt of what each section would look like, and even started writing a potential article on it. But, no matter what I did, I could never get the required stability with the cheap bookcases unless I added additional supports at the bottom for stability. And with all that work - it wasn;t any easier or cheaper than just building ordinary boxes from 1x4 lumber.
What I have built so far is on a series of 4 identical 2x8 foot boxes I made from 1x4 lumber, with cross braces on 16" centers. I built all 4 of these boxes in one Saturday afternoon, and I only had a hand saw to cut the lumber to length, even the 2x3 legs (Home Depot doesn't have 2x2's, which would be plenty strong for legs, so I used 2x3's) and the diagonal bracing. I did have my DeWalt 18V electric drill/driver to do the screws - I used regular wood screws and a countersink bit, plus yellow glue to hold it all together. A carpenter's square to mark the cuts, and a couple of sawhorses to hold it all up. If I had a power saw to do the cutting it would have gone even FASTER. ANd another timesaver would have been a second drill so I didn't have to keep changing bits - the countersink bit didn't fit my quick-change adapter so i was constantly swapping bits.
I took woodshop in high school, but I am not a professional woodwork or carpenter, and that was over 20 years ago anyway.

--Randy

[northern_blues]

Well, you don't say how big the layout is that you acquired but it is solid 3/4 (probably ply)

Possibly, you could buy steel folding legs and install them onto the bottom of the layout after reinforcing the area with an additional layer of ply.

Can you indicate the dimensions of the layout?

-Dave

[DocDan]

The layout is unsceniced with handlaid track and turnouts. The wood is dark and true 3/4" as opposed to the stuff we buy now which seems to be a little less than what its says it is. The wood is remarkably solid with NO play whatsover. In case of a serious storm or threat, this would be a great place to duck under.

As far as dimensions, it is comprised of about a half dozen secions joined with cabinet hinges (insert the pins to bring the sections together). It is somewhat rectangular in shape with the long sides running twelve to thirteen feet. One short side is about five feet. The other end of the rectangel curve out a bit so it is slightly longer. There is also one large piece that extends towards the center that is a tunrtable and track for a large roundhouse.

I bought it from the modeler's widow who simply wanted the room back. I couldn't resist the handlaid track. I didn't think I would ever have the time or inclination to do something like that myself and the flow of the track and turnouts is something you would never see with the sectional stuff I used on my existing pike.

That being said, I know the right answer is to build the benchwork the right way. Just looking for the easy way out (old high school habits die hard).

[dave9999]

QUOTE:
Now, time is at a premium and I don't want to spend a great deal of time cutting wood and doing carpentery (the least favorite part of this hobby for me).

Doc,
Building is not difficult, although I do it for a living. You can build a simple frame
from 1x4 lumber in no time. If you were close by, I would come over and give you
a hand.[:D]. The benchwork is one of my favorite parts of the layout process.
Good luck, Dave

[DocDan]

Thanks to all for the encouragement.

Dan

[Anonymous]

The easy and cheap way I found is to have a friend or relative with a saw build it for you for a case of beer or whatever.