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Foam and tortoise switch machines

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6 replies
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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 8:07 AM
Worst case, I have to reballast the section I pulled up.
The club I used to belong to had hundreds of Tortoise powered turnouts. Not one EVER failed. I'm not worried.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: N.W. Ohio
  • 166 posts
Posted by nslakediv on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 7:53 AM
first idea looked great, but what happens if machine goes bad and scenry is complete. I would be more inclined to cut a oversized hole from the bottom and glue in the luan like rails5 mentioned. tortise is a good motor but not guarenteed for life.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 14, 2005 2:39 PM
It does also work to mount from below. Drill or cut a suitable hole all the way through the foam. Glue a piece of scrap plywood using a strong foam-friendly cement (e.g. liquid nails for projects) and fasten the switch machine to it. This is the only practical way to mount Switchmaster or Hankscraft switch machines.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Sweden
  • 2,082 posts
Posted by electrolove on Monday, February 14, 2005 9:49 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

I drop them in from the top, with the Tortoise mounted to a small square of perf board. There are some pictures in the construction section of my web page, also, I got the idea from here: http://www.pbase.com/tracktime/norcalf

It works great, and since the machine is so close to the turnout, you don't need to replace the stock actuator wire with a stiffer one. You can remove them, too. I've already removed two due to a slight change in plans.

--Randy


Thanks a lot for this, so simple and nice [:D]

Peter
Rio Grande Zephyr 5771 from Denver, Colorado to Salt Lake City, Utah "Thru the Rockies"
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Monday, February 14, 2005 8:23 AM
I drop them in from the top, with the Tortoise mounted to a small square of perf board. There are some pictures in the construction section of my web page, also, I got the idea from here: http://www.pbase.com/tracktime/norcalf

It works great, and since the machine is so close to the turnout, you don't need to replace the stock actuator wire with a stiffer one. You can remove them, too. I've already removed two due to a slight change in plans.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 14, 2005 7:49 AM
I have the same dilema. My layout is 2" foam over a wood frame, no plywood.
I was thinking of glueing strips of luan plywood up under the foam from the bottom, between the "joists".
Anothe option I had considered was using a short piece of 1x3", mounting the Tortoise to it and screwing it to the joists.
Getting it located properly and drilling up through the foam without trashing the turnout could be rough in either case.
I guess I should have done some better advanced planning!

Doug
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Sweden
  • 2,082 posts
Foam and tortoise switch machines
Posted by electrolove on Monday, February 14, 2005 4:43 AM
How do I apply a tortoise switch machine when using foam to build the subroad and scenery? Foam is a soft material so must I do something special to make it work?
Rio Grande Zephyr 5771 from Denver, Colorado to Salt Lake City, Utah "Thru the Rockies"

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