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TRACK JOINTS

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
  • 2,047 posts
Posted by claycts on Wednesday, February 9, 2005 2:30 PM
Thank you for the input. As soon as by items from Micro Mark get here I will do some curve work and feeders.
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Wednesday, February 9, 2005 2:03 PM
Good point on soldering clusters of turnouts. I'm going back and doing that before I go any further. So far I've only soldered sections together on curves.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,300 posts
Posted by Sperandeo on Wednesday, February 9, 2005 1:11 PM
Hello George,

This subject must be on a lot of people's minds, as it keeps coming up. One more time, here are my recommendations:

• Do solder the joints in curves (including easements) as you've been doing, not for electrical continuity but for smooth, kink-free joints in curved track. Leave the last couple inches of one section straight, solder on a new section while that's still straight, and then bend the curve.

• Don't solder joints on straight track, and use a spacer like the edge of an NMRA gauge to leave some space for expansion between the rails in the unsoldered joiner.

• Do solder feeders to every length of flextrack, especially where the rail joints are unsoldered. (You can drop feeders from every other length of track where the joints are soldered and you probably won't ever see any difference, but why not make it bulletproof the first time?)

• Solder joints between turnouts in closely spaced groups, to help maintain their alignment.

Enjoy your layout,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Wednesday, February 9, 2005 11:45 AM
Everybody has their own opinions on this one, George. I guess I might as well jump in and offer mine. IMHO, it is better to not solder track joints. BUT, don't depend on the rail joiners to carry the electrical current. Provide a feeder to the track between every joint. Don't solder track to turnouts. If anything's going to fail, it will be a turnout and it's much easier to replace them if the track isn't soldered to them. However, there is one place where you really should solder track together and that's on a curve. If your flextrack is making a curve and it requires more than one piece of track, join them together with rail joiners on the bench where they're nice and flat and straight. Then solder the track across the rail joiners to make one continuous 6' (or 9' if you need it) piece of track. Bend that oversized piece of flextrack around the curve and cut it to length. Give it two feeders.
...Bob

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
  • 2,047 posts
TRACK JOINTS
Posted by claycts on Wednesday, February 9, 2005 11:25 AM
I have seen both Solder or no.
Question:
1. I am using code 83 Atlas Flex Track (purchased 3 cases)
2. Will be using Walthers Code 83 DCC Frindly (I guess the go to lunch or something) Turnouts.
3. Will be 100% DCC Digitrax 4 or 5 power zones
4. Buss wire will be SOLID #14 max run 22ft on Bus.
5. Will use resistance soldering for all track and wiring work
HOW OFTEN DO YOU SOLDER RAIL JOINTS? I am doing 100% on curves and easements. DO I NEED TO DO ALL THE TRACK? ALSO at Turnouts, DO YOU SOLDER THESE ALSO?[?]
I am so close to starting this 26 year delayed project and am to old to do it over and over!
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!

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