Glue for plastic models

[cmurray]

If you want a better CA type glue, check this out:

http://www.thelastglue.com/index.html

It works on a slightly different principle - oxygen deprivation - as opposed to oxygen exposure. Unlike regular super glues, it doesn't thicken in the bottle over time. I've had the same bottle for about 5 years and it's still as good as the day I bought it.

It used to be called PascoFix but now it's called The Last Glue. It's initial cost seems expensive, but when you consider you don't have to replace it (ever!) it's really quite economical.

I find it gives a better bond than regular CA glue and it doesn't bond your skin as firmly, meaning you can work your fingers apart after gluing them together.

[davekelly]

Tenax is fantastic stuff. Of course it won't work if you need some time to play with the parts, for that I use Testors or one of the Plastrut glues.

As for painting before or after assembly - my thought always has been both. Structure walls are easier (at least to me) to paint and apply mortar before assembly. I also would rather paint the window frames while they still are on the sprue. On the other hand, sometimes it is easier to build unpainted subassemblies and then paint or the whole model then paint. I don't think there are any strict guidelines out there for when each is preferrable. It's one of those things that you pick up over time. Me? Well, I've mostly learned after I do something - find it next to impossible to do and say "you know - next time I'm gonna do it different."

I would suggest that you stay away from the tube types. Way to messy.

[topcopdoc]

Thanks for all the help.

I did use the Testors in the Blue tube and agree about it setting up. I will try some of the other glues that were suggested. Has anyone tried the Gorilla glue?

[Jetrock]

Use a pushpin stuck into the nozzle of the tube of CA glue to keep it airtight when not in use--CA glue solidifies in the presence of moisture, and if not sealed the moisture in the air will turn it solid.

[Anonymous]

I use Testors, CA and Tenex depending on application. I like Tenex for it's capillary action. I use the old style Testors, not the non-toxic in the blue tube. I don't think the non-toxic ever sets up.

[orsonroy]

If you've used a Floquil-type paint, liquid plastic cement WILL eat through it and bond the plastic, but it's generally best to follow Clark's suggestion and remove paint at glue joints. That's why I generally assemble my plastic kits FIRST, and spray paint them afterwards.

Don't bother with the "designer" superglues. All ACC's are pretty much the same except for their fillers and additives, which affect drying time and gap-filling properties. They also all weaken the glue bond. The thin, cheap stuff, four tubes for $1.25, is generally the best stuff out there. Virtually all of the resin freight car kitbuilder "professionals" use the cheap thin stuff. If you MUST have a gap-filling supeglue, add baking soda to a wet ACC joint.

[cwclark]

what you need to do is purchase a hobby knife and carefully scrape away the portion of the paint and expose the plastic before putting the glue on it...that's about the only thing that will work ...most plastic glues won't work on paint...I use the testor's model glue if i'm building something that i can take my time with...i use the super thin C/A glue if i need the joint to dry in a hurry...i apply both with a toothpick or piece of old spring wire that may be laying around in my MR junkpile box...

[topcopdoc]

I am presently building some plastic bridges and due to the difficulty of painted them afterwards, I painted some parts before applying any glue. The Testors glue does not seem to hold. The pieces pull apart easily.

The "CA" model glue seems to dry up quickly after it is opened and at $4 per bottle it can be expensive. Does anyone have experience with other types of glue which I might buy in a craft or hardware store which would do the right job?