Got yet another one for my Forum friends. (Warning this will get a bit long-winded.) I am the technical advisor to our local museum in rebuilding a destroyed rail yard diorama. (I'm the only model railroader of the bunch and famous or infamous in town for having a large model railroad.) I had been working on the display for a number of years before it was damaged. The wood base was warped beyond repair due to a roof leak a couple winters ago and it had weak spots before that anyway. (The building is not heated during September to April as museum is closed.) The issue with the roof has since been fixed.
What would be the "best" way to attach track given the following conditions: All flex track except for turnouts with some curves but mostly straight, non-powered rail (Display is static with no practical way to power the rail), attached directly to wood that has been painted to look like cinder ballast to match the era of the display, the possibility of "easy" removal in case of future damage to display (I hope it never happens again but it is wise to plan ahead) and the unheated building. (It has some A/C during the summer.)
The old track was attached with track nails but they were hard to remove from what I was told (I was not involved with that aspect of the process.) and some track was damaged. (More track has been ordered to have onhand for replacement as needed.)
I'm leaning toward using the chaulk method that I have read about but I've never used it or even seen how it works, especially with flex track. I have also thought about using a different type of nail. (Something closer to a 1/2" or 5/8" household nail which is what I have used for my own layout except with 3/4" nails.)
As a mural is going to be painted on the back wall of the display space before the track is replaced and none of the prep work has happened yet, I figure it will be next year before the track gets reinstalled so this is not an immediate need.
As usual, any ideas that can be provided would be most welcomed.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I agree with Bear regarding Peco nails.
I have never used caulk, so cannot answer.
My method on my layout is use Peco nails pinning the track to the board and dry ballasting. (Ballast is not glued down.)
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Hello All,
I presume you mean "caulk" and not "chaulk".
On my pike, the foam roadbed is caulked to the foam base.
Even when the caulk is cured, if I need to reposition the foam roadbed it peels up easily and cleanly without damaging the foam base.
I use GE brand Clear Silicone I or II caulk.
Apparently, the difference between the two is that Silicon II is, "Rain-Ready in 30 minutes."
I hold the foam roadbed in place with "T" pins and allow to cure for a full 24-hours.
For some, the smell of curing caulk is a dealbreaker.
I use Wire Brads (#19 x 5/8" [1.0mm x 15.9mm]) to temporarily hold the track in place while working out any problems.
Then I mix powdered Dap® brand Plastic Resin Glue with the ballast at a ratio of 4 parts ballast to 1 part resin glue, by volume.
It is spread over the track and roadbed using a 1-inch foam brush and dress with a 1-inch silicone basting brush.
Then 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, tinted with India ink, is sprayed over the ballast powered glue mixture.
If I need to remove the ballasted track, I simply wet it with warm water, let it soak for a few minutes and pull it up.
Check out this thread for more details...
Instant Track-Tackit Ballast Adhesive Questions
Regarding the warped wood base- -if you can- -replace it with 2-inch extruded foam which is resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations.
Many people deride my use of foam roadbed and extol the virtues of Homasote®.
Homasote® is a compressed paper product and- -unless properly sealed- -swells with moisture and humidity.
Good luck with your project, and as always...
Hope this helps.
Post Script: After the ballast has dried I remove the wire brads that held the track in place. H.T.H., J.J.D.I.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Anything special about Peco track nails versus Atlas, or is it an availability thing?
jjdamnit Hello All, I presume you mean "caulk" and not "chaulk". On my pike, the foam roadbed is caulked to the foam base. Even when the caulk is cured, if I need to reposition the foam roadbed it peels up easily and cleanly without damaging the foam base. I use GE brand Clear Silicone I or II caulk. Apparently, the difference between the two is that Silicon II is, "Rain-Ready in 30 minutes." I hold the foam roadbed in place with "T" pins and allow to cure for a full 24-hours. For some, the smell of curing caulk is a dealbreaker. I use Wire Brads (#19 x 5/8" [1.0mm x 15.9mm]) to temporarily hold the track in place while working out any problems. Then I mix powdered Dap® brand Plastic Resin Glue in with the ballast at a ratio of 4 parts ballast to 1 part resin glue, by volume. It is spread over the track and roadbed using a 1-inch foam brush and dress with a 1-inch silicone basting brush. Then 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, tinted with India ink, is sprayed over the ballast powered glue mixture. If I need to remove the ballasted track, I simply wet it with warm water, let it soak for a few minutes and pull it up. Check out this thread for more details... Instant Track-Tackit Ballast Adhesive Questions Regarding the warped wood base- -if you can- -replace it with 2-inch extruded foam which is resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations. Many people deride my use of foam roadbed and extol the virtues of Homasote®. Homasote® is a compressed paper product and, unless properly sealed, swells with moisture and humidity. Good luck with your project, and as always... Hope this helps.
Then I mix powdered Dap® brand Plastic Resin Glue in with the ballast at a ratio of 4 parts ballast to 1 part resin glue, by volume.
Homasote® is a compressed paper product and, unless properly sealed, swells with moisture and humidity.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain- -thank you for your kind and respectful response.
jjdamnit I presume you mean "caulk" and not "chaulk".
Yes, that's what I meant.
As for using roadbed, I'm not going to use roadbed or ballast. As the display has a four foot wall in front of it and the deck is at the bottom of that, most of the people that see the display won't notice the lack of bedding especially with the new deck painted to represent ballast over the whole yard. I actually have to use a step stool on both sides to get in and out.
jjdamnit I use Wire Brads (#19 x 5/8" [1.0mm x 15.9mm]) to temporarily hold the track in place while working out any problems.
I actually have used wire brads like that for my own layout as I have kept changing my mind on track layout. The ones I use I think are 3/4" due to going through roadbed and into the deck. (I think I'm finally happy with what I currently have.) I also had the thought to use that same idea if I can't figure the caulk out.
jjdamnit Regarding the warped wood base- -if you can- -replace it with 2-inch extruded foam which is resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations.
A new wood base has already been installed and the deck is also the work surface so foam wouldn't be a good idea. (I walked and sat on the new deck to paint it. I also walked and sat on the old deck as well although it had a few weak spots even before the water damage that I learned to avoid.)
maxmanAnything special about Peco track nails versus Atlas, or is it an availability thing?
maxman Anything special about Peco track nails versus Atlas, or is it an availability thing? Not really to do with availability, but I prefer Peco Track nails as they have smaller heads than the Altas ones, making them more unobtrusive, easier to disguise. ¼ Cheers, the Bear.
maxman Anything special about Peco track nails versus Atlas, or is it an availability thing?
thanks
Interesting thread. I use nails, but I drill a hole first to make it easier to insert/remove.
Simon
snjroy Interesting thread. I use nails, but I drill a hole first to make it easier to insert/remove. Simon
That's an interesting thought. What nails do you use and what size drill bit do you use?
I use Atlas nails, but I would'nt know what bit size. Just use something slightly smaller than the nail. I use a pin vise to drill the hole.
snjroy I use Atlas nails, but I would'nt know what bit size. Just use something slightly smaller than the nail. I use a pin vise to drill the hole. Simon
I have enough calipers that I think I figure it out. Thank you for the suggestion.
FRRYKid snjroy I use Atlas nails, but I would'nt know what bit size. Just use something slightly smaller than the nail. I use a pin vise to drill the hole. Simon I have enough calipers that I think I figure it out. Thank you for the suggestion.
Since I'm a Homasote user, I don't need to pre-drill. Nails just push in.
Just as a note: the 'caulk' used here is acrylic caulk, not 'silicone' or long-life caulk (which is the stinky vinegar cure).
The caulk can be pre-tinted or loaded with colored aggregate before being spread; it does not have to go on 'straight from the caulking gun' (see SAP for tinting plaster brown or gray when making scenery...)
OvermodJust as a note: the 'caulk' used here is acrylic caulk, not 'silicone' or long-life caulk (which is the stinky vinegar cure).
Not me- -I specified...
jjdamnitI use GE brand Clear Silicone I or II caulk. Apparently, the difference between the two is that Silicon II is, "Rain-Ready in 30 minutes."For some, the smell of curing caulk is a dealbreaker.
Just for clarification.