trevorsmith3489 I use thin black plasticard. Turn the turnout upside down and cut the plasticard to fit around the motor and large enough to cover the hole in the roadbed/cork.
I use thin black plasticard.
Turn the turnout upside down and cut the plasticard to fit around the motor and large enough to cover the hole in the roadbed/cork.
I did exactly as Mr. Beasley. I marked the card stock to where the pin from the motor and the four tabs are located and made appropriate cuts, then placed the card stock between the motor and turnout. Easy peasey.
Regards, Chris
I model in HO and I typically use a piece of thin cardboard painted gray to match the surrounding ballast.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
How about simple Modelling clay in grey????
Just a thought!
Take Care!
Frank
Or, a piece of 0.10" styrene sheet.
I do that when I drill holes in my plywood surface to feed resistored LED wires through the plywood, then fit styrene sheet over the hole so that the signal post does not fall through the hole.
Rich
Alton Junction
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I model in N scale. I want to attach Peco switch machines directly beneath Peco turnouts, using the metal tabs on the switch machines. This requires cutting a 40mm x 24mm hole in the cork roadbed and the 1/2" plywood roadbed under the turnout. Is there a good way to patch this hole after installation of the switch machines, for aesthetic and ballasting purposes?
i know I can avoid cutting the hole by using an extended pin switch motor, but for a number of reasons, I want to use the metal tabs instead.
Many thanks for any suggestions on the patch!