Modular Construction

[Anonymous]

If you don't mind going narrow gage (are you narrow minded?) or are modeling in N scale, check out the micro layouts. They're small projects that can help you practice your skills and try new or different techniques. Because they're small, you can have a compleated layout sooner. Also, if you plan it out so, they can be a part of a larger layout.
http://carendt.com/microplans/index.html

[Anonymous]

If you are building a shelf type layout, try a module that is 2 by 4 feet. Still small enogh for one man to move, yet allowing for a great amount of detail. If you are building a layout that is not a shelf type layout, then try, if you have some extra men lying around, a module 3 by 6 feet. Two men should easily be able to move such a module. You might also look at the Atlas Modular Layout system.

[bcammack]

I'm thinking real hard about doing a modular system using hollow core door blanks with a standardized edge interface location. If I start with one blank, I can expand gradually over time. I've got a 2'x4' layout (N scale) now, but the only potential interface for another module is off the back at the left-most edge and it doesn't really make for a convenient connection to this interchange track with another module.

[mcouvillion]

mdwilson610,

We built our modules originally with 2"x2" legs. The tables were terribly unstable. We then changed to a section of 3/4" plywood held in place between the modules by all-thread with flat washers and wingnuts. Works GREAT! All were built to a template so they fit anywhere, and we routed out a significant part of the mass of the wood, to lighten the load. Our modules were originally built with a 3/4" difference between them to try cabinet hangers (a strip of 3/4" plywood cut on a 45 degree angle that mates better the more weight is applied), but there is no appreciable weight, so it didn't work well. But, by removing the cabinet hangers, we had room for the 3/4" legs, which another club has used successfully for 20+ years. Fast, easy, solid!!! But don't forget to remove a bunch of the extra weight of the legs, 'cause they are HEAVY without it.

We attached a hardwood strip on the floor end of the plywood to prevent splitting, then used T-nuts and adjustable feet to allow for height adjustment.

Mark C.

[Anonymous]

Regarding modular construction has anyone thought of constructing units that have only legs on one end so that they are articulated? The corners could have four legs, but the linear modules could be two legged.

[mcouvillion]

Another comment on sectional layouts:

I was involved in building a 12' x 24' sectional layout with a home remodeler. He suggested offsetting the top of each section by 1/2" so that the top of one section rested on the top of the adjacent section, making alignment so much easier. It's the smartest thing we did when building the layout.

Mark C.

[dehusman]

Just a point of clarification on terms.

Modular generally applies to a design where the track configuration is the same on the ends of each module. The various modules can be rearranged in any order, they all mate with each other. An example is N-Trak or Freemo.

Sectional generally applies to a design where the benchwork can be separated into pieces, but there are unique track arrangements at the joints. A sectional layout typically only goes together one way. An example is David Barrow's Domino's.

You can also mix and match , like having 1 N-Trak module that "plugs" into a layout.

It is hard to make a home layout with modules because the fairly rigid interface standards and module sizes, plus many modular systems are designed to be operated from the back but viewed from the front. The sectional layout offers more opportunities to customize the benchwork and trackplan.

Dave H.

[jaybird1]

Joe,
If you are going to do a modular system I recomend a 2x4 size and use the NMRA standards so that if you move you can still tie in to another club. also check for clubs in your area that get together and setup a couple times a year.

[RedSkin]

Well I'm in sorta the same situation. I am in the Army as well and am stationed overseas. I decided to build my first layout as a 4X8, but a broke it up into 2X4 sections that will just butt together, held in place by "C" Clamps. Here is a Picture, I've gotten track layed on one of the sections.

I hope this helps.
Spc. West

[rdettmer]

first post, has anyone tried out woodland scenics mod-u-lars?

[tomkat-13]

Here is a six foot modular I did the scenery on for my RR club..

[johncolley]

Check out Free-mo.org for modular groups all over that get together and make large point-to-point layouts and operate like the real thing! It's so much better than the roundy round setups, but any railroading you can do is better than none, eh?

[Bob Hayes]

Check out David Barrow's "dominos" article in Model Railroad Planning 2004, pg.20. He uses 18"x48" modules which sit on 48" legs. When you need to move, just disconnect the modules from each other and lift off the legs.

Bob Hayes

[jhoff310]

modular is the way to go inf you know you are going to be moving. If I were goingto build a modular layout I would make each section no longer than 6 or 8 feet that way it is still easy enough for one person to move. Thats just my humble opinion
Jeff

[Anonymous]

Hello-
After an almost 27 year hiatus, I'm interested in model railroading again.
Was always hard to do since I'm in the Army and move quite a bit. Since I still have a few more moves ahead of me, was looking for some hints, ideas and pictures of modular construction.
My interest is PRR, since that's where I'm from, so I'm "thinking big" probably too big, but I'm sort of starting from scratch.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Joe