Sheldon)
In the track laying department, I feel its safe to say I would stray away from cork roadbed here and there. That and the ability to make a piece of trackwork not commercially found.
That interests me albeit a layout is still far away. I may not even need a custom turnout or crossing. Id still like to drive some spikes just to experience the aspect of it.
Those ive seen done always caught my eye. I like the look of home made track.
I checked the link you posted, pretty neat stuff! Just hope they, and all the others that are here today... are still around when I get to retire and finally needing their services.
If I hadnt said it above already, I always enjoyed trackwork. not so much the roadbed work.
Douglas
Hello All,
I use Woodland Scenics HO Foam Roadbed on 1-inch foam.
To attach the roadbed to the foam I use clear silicone caulk- -for some the odor of curing silicone caulk is enough to turn them off.
I've found the smell dissipates in a matter of hours in a well-ventilated space.
Simply run a bead down the center, spread thinly with a plastic putty knife, and put in place.
For curves, I mark the centerline with a homemade trammel, then split the roadbed. I put 2-inch "T" pins along the centerline as a guide.
Then I use 2-inch "T" pins to hold in place until cured.
Another advantage of silicone caulk is, after it is cured you can still peel up the roadbed without damage to either.
Then you simply rub the silicone off- -it comes off in little balls- -then reattach.
For the track, I use silver wire brads; #19 x 5/8-inch, to hold it in place then ballast the track.
Once the ballast has dried I remove the brads.
For super elevation I use wooden stir sticks that are 3/64-inch thick (Approximately 4-inches [scale]) and 5-1/2 inches long. I cut them in thirds and put them under the outside ties of the curve.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
rrebell Homosote is not good if wet and a lot of our scenery stuff involves water now. The foam distorts easily and can not be sanded for transitions at the top of rises. Cork is pretty much water proff as far as we are concerned, is easily trimed and sanded. Sometimes if it ain't broke, try not to fix it.
Homosote is not good if wet and a lot of our scenery stuff involves water now. The foam distorts easily and can not be sanded for transitions at the top of rises. Cork is pretty much water proff as far as we are concerned, is easily trimed and sanded. Sometimes if it ain't broke, try not to fix it.
Forty years, never had any problem gluing ties to Homasote with white glue for hand layed track, plastering scenery right up to the edge of it, ballasting track with various glues, or using glues for scenery ground covers.
If you have not done it, don't assume there is a problem.
Sheldon
gregc kasskaboose I glue it to my 2" pink foam sub-roadbed,. what type glue? thanks all
kasskaboose I glue it to my 2" pink foam sub-roadbed,.
what type glue?
thanks all
Definitely something foam compatible (some adhesives will start to melt the foam). I use foam compatible adhesive, DAP PL 300
BigDaddy I see Eco Foam Cork Maybe it's the same stuff fake wine corks are made of? I'm surprised they would have "remnants"
I see Eco Foam Cork
Maybe it's the same stuff fake wine corks are made of? I'm surprised they would have "remnants"
OK, interesting. Not sure why I did not find it?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
selector I have used a plasticized cork underlay and a thinnish cork underlay, both available at the big box stores and hardware stores where they sell contractors' materials. I cut the roll remnant, often 4-5' worth, into 1.25" wide strips, kerf the outer radius to enable flat curves, and use DAP to adhere it. Works really well. I don't need the beveled shoulders/edges because the angle of repose of my beach sand ballast takes care of that effect.
I have used a plasticized cork underlay and a thinnish cork underlay, both available at the big box stores and hardware stores where they sell contractors' materials. I cut the roll remnant, often 4-5' worth, into 1.25" wide strips, kerf the outer radius to enable flat curves, and use DAP to adhere it. Works really well. I don't need the beveled shoulders/edges because the angle of repose of my beach sand ballast takes care of that effect.
Interesting, a search of my home centers here did not show products of that nature in stock?
PM Railfan The homasote I had was a 4x8 sheet for my first real layout. At the time I was too young to know diddly about Model Railroads, but i was old enough to have been in the community and was asking the local guys how its done. Worst thing I ever noticed about homasote was its ability to shrink and grow with ambient humidity. Best thing about it was it was very quiet (if you like that) and pretty easy to work with. I would love to try hand laying track. And may do a bit just so i can experience it (can of worms just waiting to be opened?). I use track nails through cork into wood because its just enough grip to hold track firmly, but easy enough to remove without damaging anything should a tear down be needed (or realignment for instance). Over the years I have noticed some turnouts (commercial) tend to 'straighten out'. nailing track gives me the strength I need to prevent this. With added nails ofcourse. Im thinking a caulk might be a solution here as an added preventative. Lastly, if you cut homasote, its cut. If your off by a degree in a curve, or just whatever reason.... you need a new piece. For cork. its just pull the nails back out and re-lay it. Im all about some things being easy. Douglas
The homasote I had was a 4x8 sheet for my first real layout. At the time I was too young to know diddly about Model Railroads, but i was old enough to have been in the community and was asking the local guys how its done.
Worst thing I ever noticed about homasote was its ability to shrink and grow with ambient humidity. Best thing about it was it was very quiet (if you like that) and pretty easy to work with.
I would love to try hand laying track. And may do a bit just so i can experience it (can of worms just waiting to be opened?).
I use track nails through cork into wood because its just enough grip to hold track firmly, but easy enough to remove without damaging anything should a tear down be needed (or realignment for instance).
Over the years I have noticed some turnouts (commercial) tend to 'straighten out'. nailing track gives me the strength I need to prevent this. With added nails ofcourse. Im thinking a caulk might be a solution here as an added preventative.
Lastly, if you cut homasote, its cut. If your off by a degree in a curve, or just whatever reason.... you need a new piece. For cork. its just pull the nails back out and re-lay it. Im all about some things being easy.
Hand laying track is not hard, it does take patience and time. I only use those skills now to build special trackwork when needed, but even then I have developed techniques to make curved turnouts from commercial straight ones, or use frogs and points from commerical turnouts to make specials.
I have never built a layout in an unstable (always heated and cooled, well insulated, stable humidity and temperature) environment. BUT, the Serverna Park club I mentioned is in an old railroad station and is only heated or cooled then people are there - again, since 1965.
Admittedly, in 50 years of this hobby, I seldom ever concerned myself much with salvaging track from previous layouts. With hand layed track all you can save is the rail. The ties are glued to the roadbed which is likely pretty secure to the subroadbed in one way or another.
Now that I glue down flex track, again you can pull the rail up........
On my last layout I had several big hidden staging yards that were nailed, not glued - I saved them and most turnouts which were not glued. And I saved a lot of rail - deciding how I might use it? Central Valley ties maybe.
I have an engineering background, very seldom have I needed to realign a track route.....
I don't generally "cut" Homasote into roadbed. I use large sheets for yards and such.
But in more modern times (like the last 30-35 years) I have used commercial products like this:
https://www.cwhomaroad.com/
Just like cork, only Homasote.
As pictured in my earlier post in this thread.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL PM Railfan First layout, dad built, straight track to board (he wasnt a Railfan). Tracks never moved, never had issues, perfect! But it was a bit noisy. Track was very hard to remove when the layout was dissambled. Second layout i did myself. I had been advised by fellow Railfans this time to use homasote. Its ok for something like a table top layout (4x8, 5x10, etc) but not for a pro layout (exception - sound deadner on the risers or trusses). It doesnt hold track nails, gets a bit dusty to work with (think asbestos), is expensive additive not needed. I would only recommend this depending on the layout and its use. It can peel/flake under certain circumstances, which are not favorable to scenary. Last layout I built i wasnt fooling around this time. CORK on wood! Its flexible, doesnt compress, is thin enough standard track nails can be used, not gutter nails like on foam based layouts. A glue to hold track in place can be used, but definately is not needed - at all (also unlike foam layouts). Sound qualities are just right for model railroads. removal of track is a cinch, and no damage doing it either! totally reusable which homasote and foam are not. The last layout I worked on was 8 years ago. One of these new fangeld ideas using foam like most new layouts built today. Geesmus what a mess! Foam is ok for scenary, it sure beats plastor and wire or paper mache. But for trackwork, its the worst thing you could ever put under your ties! I had to redo as much of the mainline for the layout owner (who also built it) as I could reach. It was aweful. Foam will not hold track in place. It will not remain even, even if your using the same thickness all the way through the job. Its just sad. I wouldnt recommend this to anyone. I cant believe MR does. Out of about half a dozen layouts Ive worked on over the decades, cork is the only roadbed that stood the test. As for manufacturer Ive used the gammut. Cork is cork. You can shave it, shape it, cut it, torch it, twist it, turn it, drill it, glue to it, bite it and /or cuss at it.... anything you want to do. Cork.... shaken not stirred, thats my recommendation. Clear Ahead! PMR Interesting. I started using Homasote when I was hand laying all my track. Campbell profile ties, glued to Homasote, and spiked not thru the ties but next to them. Never an issue. In fact the trackage at the Severna Park Model Railroad is all hand layed in that way. It is still working fine after 60 years of service. That said, if you use two piece Homasote road bed, track nails in the center for commercial track will have to go thru into the sub roadbed. But my experiance with cork is similar. As noted above, I don't use track nails to any great extent. I have never had any kind of delamination with Homasote? There are imitation products that may be inferior? Our views about foam are the same. Sheldon
PM Railfan First layout, dad built, straight track to board (he wasnt a Railfan). Tracks never moved, never had issues, perfect! But it was a bit noisy. Track was very hard to remove when the layout was dissambled. Second layout i did myself. I had been advised by fellow Railfans this time to use homasote. Its ok for something like a table top layout (4x8, 5x10, etc) but not for a pro layout (exception - sound deadner on the risers or trusses). It doesnt hold track nails, gets a bit dusty to work with (think asbestos), is expensive additive not needed. I would only recommend this depending on the layout and its use. It can peel/flake under certain circumstances, which are not favorable to scenary. Last layout I built i wasnt fooling around this time. CORK on wood! Its flexible, doesnt compress, is thin enough standard track nails can be used, not gutter nails like on foam based layouts. A glue to hold track in place can be used, but definately is not needed - at all (also unlike foam layouts). Sound qualities are just right for model railroads. removal of track is a cinch, and no damage doing it either! totally reusable which homasote and foam are not. The last layout I worked on was 8 years ago. One of these new fangeld ideas using foam like most new layouts built today. Geesmus what a mess! Foam is ok for scenary, it sure beats plastor and wire or paper mache. But for trackwork, its the worst thing you could ever put under your ties! I had to redo as much of the mainline for the layout owner (who also built it) as I could reach. It was aweful. Foam will not hold track in place. It will not remain even, even if your using the same thickness all the way through the job. Its just sad. I wouldnt recommend this to anyone. I cant believe MR does. Out of about half a dozen layouts Ive worked on over the decades, cork is the only roadbed that stood the test. As for manufacturer Ive used the gammut. Cork is cork. You can shave it, shape it, cut it, torch it, twist it, turn it, drill it, glue to it, bite it and /or cuss at it.... anything you want to do. Cork.... shaken not stirred, thats my recommendation. Clear Ahead! PMR
First layout, dad built, straight track to board (he wasnt a Railfan). Tracks never moved, never had issues, perfect! But it was a bit noisy. Track was very hard to remove when the layout was dissambled.
Second layout i did myself. I had been advised by fellow Railfans this time to use homasote. Its ok for something like a table top layout (4x8, 5x10, etc) but not for a pro layout (exception - sound deadner on the risers or trusses). It doesnt hold track nails, gets a bit dusty to work with (think asbestos), is expensive additive not needed. I would only recommend this depending on the layout and its use. It can peel/flake under certain circumstances, which are not favorable to scenary.
Last layout I built i wasnt fooling around this time. CORK on wood! Its flexible, doesnt compress, is thin enough standard track nails can be used, not gutter nails like on foam based layouts. A glue to hold track in place can be used, but definately is not needed - at all (also unlike foam layouts). Sound qualities are just right for model railroads. removal of track is a cinch, and no damage doing it either! totally reusable which homasote and foam are not.
The last layout I worked on was 8 years ago. One of these new fangeld ideas using foam like most new layouts built today. Geesmus what a mess! Foam is ok for scenary, it sure beats plastor and wire or paper mache. But for trackwork, its the worst thing you could ever put under your ties!
I had to redo as much of the mainline for the layout owner (who also built it) as I could reach. It was aweful. Foam will not hold track in place. It will not remain even, even if your using the same thickness all the way through the job. Its just sad. I wouldnt recommend this to anyone. I cant believe MR does.
Out of about half a dozen layouts Ive worked on over the decades, cork is the only roadbed that stood the test. As for manufacturer Ive used the gammut. Cork is cork. You can shave it, shape it, cut it, torch it, twist it, turn it, drill it, glue to it, bite it and /or cuss at it.... anything you want to do.
Cork.... shaken not stirred, thats my recommendation.
Clear Ahead!
PMR
Interesting.
I started using Homasote when I was hand laying all my track. Campbell profile ties, glued to Homasote, and spiked not thru the ties but next to them. Never an issue. In fact the trackage at the Severna Park Model Railroad is all hand layed in that way. It is still working fine after 60 years of service.
That said, if you use two piece Homasote road bed, track nails in the center for commercial track will have to go thru into the sub roadbed. But my experiance with cork is similar.
As noted above, I don't use track nails to any great extent.
I have never had any kind of delamination with Homasote?
There are imitation products that may be inferior?
Our views about foam are the same.
kasskabooseI glue it to my 2" pink foam sub-roadbed,.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
I use ME HO scale cork for everything. It is easy to shape and apply. I glue it to my 2" pink foam sub-roadbed,.
I've used the WS foam roadbed on plywood for a couple of my modules. I ended up with slight undulations in the track that doesn't affect operation and you have to get eye level to see. Since then it's been all Midwest cork. For transition from roadbed to ground level, I used left over cedar shingles. They taper smoothly to the thickness of the roadbed over a long enough distance for smooth operation. Easy to cut with a utility knife and you can even bevel the sides.
Pete.
MidlandMike What are the advantages/disadvantages of foam roadbed?
What are the advantages/disadvantages of foam roadbed?
It's very easy to work with. It's very flexible and does not need shaping like wood or homosote, so the process is faster. It comes in long rolls, so it takes very little space to store and you can lay out many feet of it in one continuous strip. If you're using foam subroadbed as well, an awl is all it takes to punch through to the underside of your layout for wiring.
Eventually, I ballast all my track. The ballast and glue leaves a hard surface so the roadbed doesn't deform under finger pressure.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
On my current one, I used a combination approach. For exposed edges, I used a single piecce of Midwest HO scale cork. For the rest as I have yard areas for most of it, I used sheet cork. (On one area of sheet cork I ended up putting some spackle as it didn't match the quality of the rest.) Where the mainline comes out of the yard, there are two pieces of Midwest cork to match the standard track profile.
gregc i'm wondering what else could be used as well as something thinner for spurs that should be lower than the main track?
On my HO layout I use Midwest cork roadbed for the mainline and siding/passing tracks. For spurs and yard tracks I use 1/8" thick cork; sold in rolls at Hobby Lobby, cut in strips just like the roadbed, making it easier to bend and follow the centerline.
For the transition from Midwest to the HL cork, I use a Stanley Surform tool to shape the roadbed as a ramp to meet the thinner cork.
I use code 83 track for everything, but based on a tip in MR some years back, for spurs and yard tracks, I remove every 4th tie and then re-space the remaining ties. This visually suggests lighter construction.
Jim
So to offer a little more detail, on my previous layouts, and my new one, yards and industial areas will have track layed directly on large flat sheets of Homasote.
Mainline trackage will be homasote roadbed and transition down to those yard and industrial areas.
I actually nail the Homasote roadbed down with a brad nailer, its fast, easy and accurate.
Then I glue track down with clear PolySeamSeal adhesive caulk - except turnouts. Turnouts are held by the surounding track and sometimes a track nail or two.
Unless they are insulated - ALL rail joints are soldered.
On the rare occasion I feel some need to allow expansion/contraction room on a long run, I solder jumpers around the rail joint.
Note here - I have always build layouts in stable controlled environments.
If need be, because I often build "deep" scenery, I put a pdded board on my track and support my weight, I have never damaged doing this. I don't use foam for any aspect of the layout.
MidlandMike MisterBeasley I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. It’s very easy to work with. If you want a thinner version, N-scale is available. You can get it in sheet form and cut any width you want with a knife or even scissors. What are the advantages/disadvantages of foam roadbed?
MisterBeasley I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. It’s very easy to work with. If you want a thinner version, N-scale is available. You can get it in sheet form and cut any width you want with a knife or even scissors.
I use Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. It’s very easy to work with. If you want a thinner version, N-scale is available. You can get it in sheet form and cut any width you want with a knife or even scissors.
The disadvantage - it's foam, I can distort it with my finger.
gregc i see that there is cork roadbed and homasote roadbed. i'm wondering what else could be used as well as something thinner for spurs that should be lower than the main track?
i see that there is cork roadbed and homasote roadbed. i'm wondering what else could be used as well as something thinner for spurs that should be lower than the main track?
California Roadbed has been out of business for while now, but they did offer different thicknesses.
So does this guy. I helped him refine his product line when he was getting started by offering my thoughts and sharing what I know about he history of both Homasote and wood roadbed that has been offered over the decades.
https://www.cwhomaroad.com/ho-roadbed
Personally, I am a "firm" roadbed believer. My first layout was TruScale wood roadbed. All my other layouts have been Homasote or a combination of wood and Homasote.
While I have used cork roadbed helping others build layouts, and building store displays when I managed a train department in a hobby shop, I would not use cork for my home layout.
I would mill my own homasote first if necessary - I have a nice table saw, and a shop vac - Oh, that's right, I have more than one of each.....
I don't like cork, its too soft in my view. I have seen it dry out a fail underneath ballast, etc.
Several years ago, there was a guy who was a very prolific poster who had a large layout that went through a couple of significant revisions. I think his name was Michael Rose.
He used some stuff called Taskboard. It is kinda spongy, but firm, kinda similar to gator board or foam core. It comes in sheets (thickness from 1/32" up to about 1/4", or maybe thicker) that he loaded into a large format laser cutter. He basically cut out strips about 1-1/2" wide by 24" or so long. He cut out both straight sections and curves of all radius. Cutting them out in the laser cutter meant that every piece fit perfectly, like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
I've used that stuff for other purposes, and I think it would make a perfectly acceptable track base. I would have used it on my current layout, but I didn't get my laser engraver/cutter until after all track was installed. I would seriously consider it for future layouts.
LINK to SNSR Blog
You can use N scale cork roadbed.
I think there is/was N scale homasote roadbed (the ready to use item). Both of these are thinner than HO and will give you the result you're looking for.
Edit: https://www.cwhomaroad.com/n-roadbed
I think Pele Soderberg (sp) had an article where he used thinner cork and small code rail to simulate siddings and yards.