I'm starting my first layout. I have been collecting trains and track for years now.I have about 9 different types of HO track, different colors and different shapes,not sure if I can combine them.
"Code" refers to the height of the rail in real (i.e. not scale) measurement. So "code 100" rail is .100"; or 1/10th of an inch, high. Code 83 is .083" high, etc. Generally, it's pretty easy to connect different track pieces from different makers as long as the rail is the same code. (However, there are adapter tracks and track connectors you can buy to connect say code 83 and code 70 rail if you want to.)
You want to use track with nickel-silver rails. If you have track with brass rails, you can use them for storage tracks off the layout, but brass tends to have electrical problems as it ages so don't use them on your layout.
Be aware of the radius of curvature if you have any curved "sectional" track. You don't want anything smaller that 18 inch radius curves. Most equipment can't handle such tight curves. If you have the room, try for larger curves.
Good trackwork is essential to enjoying a model railroad. Take your time and do it right. As you lay down track, test, test and retest.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
9 types, Wow!
I'd ditch the brass. It doesn't look prototypical. Years ago there was a steel track with fiber ties, I'd ditch that too.
I'm a fan of flex track vs sectional (9" pieces) and track without roadbed vs Kato or Bachman. If you have either of those it's hard to connect to regular track.
Mr B is correct. Unless you are modeling with very small locos and rolling stock, 18" is a minimum and 30" is an aspiration, achieved by many here.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddyMr B is correct. Unless you are modeling with very small locos and rolling stock, 18" is a minimum and 30" is an aspiration, achieved by many here.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
9 types of track suggests some of it is the kind with the built in plastic roadbed -- LikeLike, Bachmann, Atlas and Kato all offer that kind. Ordinarily they do not mate with each other -- proprietary fastening methods. It IS possible with some "plastic surgery" to get them to mate but there are also differences in overall height (quite apart from the Code 100/Code 83 differences). There are certainly some nice features to the better brands of integral track that comes with roadbed. But for practical purposes and avoiding frustration you really do have to choose a brand of that kind of track and then stick with it.
But in my opinion I prefer the options and choices that regular track with plastic ties put on cork roadbed offers. As another poster has pointed out if you need it even 15" radius can be mated with flex track or other sizes of section track.
So reluctantly I think some of those 9 types of track will need to be put aside. Making a choice has its costs but in the long run it is worth it
Dave Nelson
Except for hidden track, I hand lay mine. Don't forget. The plastic ties can be varying heights as well with different brands and different decades. Rail joiners sometimes differ too. But not as much between brands as with different rail codes. If some of that track happens to be European, theyhave different radio us and list it as radious They just call it first, second, or third. Best to start with sorting out what you have and by what manufacturer
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Why nine?
I use ME (micro engineering) and love it. While more expensive than Atlas, it keeps the shape when curved. You just need to cut ties underneath near the curve since two often make a "V" shape.