N/S flex track - bending?

[Anonymous]

[%-)][?] Is any special way(s) to bent the flex track or special tools and what would their name(s) be?
I just bought a box of 100 - 3 footers (N/S code 100).
I would like to do it right the first time.

Thanks, ennout

[SpaceMouse]

You're not the guy that beat me to it on eBay are you? (Wanna sell about half?)

[rrinker]

No special tools, really. The Atlas flex track (if that's what you have) is fairly easy to form into smooth flowing curves. The only special tool yuo really SHOULD have is a Xuron rail nipper, it's a top-quality tool that makes a nice smooth cut when cutting the flex track to size. And never EVER use it to cut anything harder than the rail, which is a fairly soft metal.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse

You're not the guy that beat me to it on eBay are you? (Wanna sell about half?)

[:D] No, not me. I did not win this on ebay, I got (one box of 100 N/S code 100) from trainworld.com for $119.99 + shipping, not atlas, but I am hoping that is going to work out OK. The Wife has both hands around the checkbook and is screaming if I get close to it !!!!

It seemed to me someone here was saying something about a special tool that keeps the curves more uniform, I had so much other stuff (building platform and ebay, wife, etc.) on my mind at the time. I do't remember what it was called.

thank you guys for your help,
always learning,
ennout[:D]

[SpaceMouse]

The thing I've heard used (like I'm the big expert) is a Yardstick with holes at 18", 22", etc. to keep the track uniform.

[2021]

Don't know and never heard of a track curve tool. There are so many variations in curves people use that I can't think of a particular tool that would satisfy every condition. Many people make templates of the main curve radii but these only give you the centerlines. The use of a yardstick and Xuron track cutters as mentioned is still the best way. I use a yardstick by drilling a small hole at 1inch and then at the radii I will use (remember that first 1 inch so for example a 28" curve would need a hole drilled at 29").
Good luck, Ron K.

[mgruber]

Mark your curves onto the sub-road bed with some type of compass. [Stick with radius drilled into it.] Lay down your roadbed following the lines you put down for your radius. Before you tack down any track, it's best to solder a few pieces of track together first. This will give you a nice easy curve . Be sure the flex part of the track is on the inside of your curve. [Thats the side where there are spaces between the bottom of the ties.] Now just follow your roadbed, or lines if not using roadbed, and you're there. Hope that helps.

[roadrat]

If you have any old sectional track around you can solder 2,3,5,6 pieces together and have a ready made template for 15"18"22".

bill

[jddav1]

be sure to keep the flex part on the inside of the curve. I would not pre-solder sections together first because the rail connector will not slide through the flex track ties.
Jeff

[Anonymous]

There are pieces of aluminum sold as sweeps that you slide inside of the rails to produce an even curve. I have found this to be unecessary with code 100 (or any other code). Draw the centerline on the subroadbed with a trammel (stick and pencil used as a large compass) and lay the track down. I have found code 100 bends very easily into a nice curve using this method. I slide the inner rail around about 1/2 way down the length of the flex to stagger the rail joints, I curve the track, mark the spot , cut the ties out at the joint, solder it straight, curve it and lay it down. You can get very smooth track work this way.

[Anonymous]

thanks again , I sure am glad you guys are out there. Maybe someday I might be able to give an other newbee some advice.

[Anonymous]

Don't have any advice but had to comment on your comment about the wife's death grip on the checkbook! Made for a good chuckle, guess that's one thing all of us married model railroaders have in common! I'm surprised your wife even let's you see the checkbook... I'm not even sure where ours is. When I go to train shows I'm only allowed to leave the house with cash and a limited amount at that!

[foxtrackin]

Sounds like you bought model power track. I have some of it too, but found that it works best for areas needing straight track like in yards. Atlas track is a little more expensive but seems to flex alot easier for doing turns. I cut the first tie off on each piece of flex track. Then use a rail jointer and solder it together when straight. Then make the radius and nail it down and cut off the extra rail. Then replace the ties that I cut off earlier.

[Anonymous]

just remember to add easements into curvesalso if you have scrap of plywood or masonite,cut curves out on them and use as template