I'm starting to install grade crossings, using wood beams or tie-length beams in some cases as my research photos show. In the photos, it looks like the beams are held down by counterboring holes in the beams and using nuts on threaded rods that go into the ground. What I can't tell from photos is if the fasteners are driven into the track ties or into the ground between ties. The fasteners do look like they are usually in a row perpendicular to the rails even if the crossing is at an angle to the rails. I'll drill holes to represent the counterbored holes but don't plan on trying to put tiny hex nuts in the holes.
The lag screws simply pass through the crossing planks into the track ties. Often they would have square heads rather than hex heads. The holes in the crossing planks might be drilled in the field to match the tie spacing.
John
Here's some information:
PRR MOW Standard Drawing by Edmund, on Flickr
And the drive spikes:
I cheated and used laser-cut planking on some of my crossings:
Crossing_grade by Edmund, on Flickr
Regards, Ed
I use strip styrene for planks on some rural crossings, using a dragged razor saw to add some "wood" details, but haven't bothered to add the bolt detail, even though I have a pretty good supply of plastic NBW castings on-hand...
...while crossings that are less frequently used get just the planks on both sides of both rails, with gravel (and/or dirt) to fill in the crossing...
These crossings use angle iron (styrene) to help keep the flangeways clear of debris....
...while the crossings are a combination of gravel and dirt.
Wayne
Thank you, John, Ed, and Wayne! That's just the information I needed. The drawing really helps to show the details and cross section. I'll use that as my guide. Interesting to see the Blair Line laser cut crossings. Looks like a good product. Wayne, the photos of the crossings on the turnouts is very helpful as I have some crossings just like that (with gravel roads, too) and wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Using rails and gravel like you did is better than what I thought I would do trying to fit wood planks in those triangular areas.
Thank you, again! I'm on my way to make some crossings!
JR Santa FeInteresting to see the Blair Line laser cut crossings.
I like the Blair Line product. The downside to any model RR crossing is the extra wide flangeway necessary.
Crossing_4-22b by Edmund, on Flickr
In the case of my curved crossings shown earlier it was less hassle to use the Blair crossings which were already cut to the closest inner and outer radius which worked out well for me.
Crossing_grade1 by Edmund, on Flickr
Asphalt_Crossing1 by Edmund, on Flickr
I filled the area between the tracks with Durham's Water putty.
There's a prototype for Doctor Wayne's rail-formed crossings, too:
Crossing Using scrap rail by Edmund, on Flickr
I've seen examples of the above where scrap rail was used as the filler between the running rails, too.
West Side of Alaskan Way Viaduct at S. Main Street by Kheel Center, on Flickr
Good Luck, Ed
I've scratchbuilt my crossings as well.
http://photos.app.goo.gl/GKsqUpkYa2gFkQB26
You'll need to zoom in a bit as this is the only photo I have handy. They are actual railroad ties used for handlaying track. I have since run out and now use stripwood cut to size. I also have a curved crossing built from the same ties. Don't have a picture of that one handy but it was recycled from my old layout.
I'm getting ready to build a few more crossings on my layout as well. Interesting to see that other people are building wood ties crossing as well.
Ed, thanks for the additional photos and drawings. The drawings are so detailed, right down to the 1/4" min. between the top of the main rail and the guide rail! I've printed out the drawings to keep as references. I like your pavement. I may try the Durham's Putty myself. I've used it on various projects, but not on the layout. I know it dries really hard.
Thanks, JR! Another paving material I like to use to simulate asphalt is EVA foam. The top photo in my above reply, with the Mail truck, is EVA foam. I use gray and black depending on how 'old' I want the pavement to look.
I haven't 'weathered' it yet here but I was trying to show that the siding had been removed and fresh asphalt used to pave over the roadbed:
Hadlock_Machine-OA by Edmund, on Flickr
siding_view_4-22 by Edmund, on Flickr
This pavement is EVA foam:
Chem_pave-tar3 by Edmund, on Flickr
Sometimes it needs to be patched up from time-to-time:
Pave_crew-1 by Edmund, on Flickr
Pave_crew by Edmund, on Flickr
Have Fun! Ed
Ed, Thanks for the additional pictures. All I can say is WOW! I love the asphalt crew repairing the cracks with tar! Very creative. And I see steam and smoke coming out of the asphalt buggy. And I also like your abandoned siding. There are a lot of details to look at in those pictures.
I happen to have a sheet of that craft foam, and I only have a couple of small areas that will be paved, so I think I'll try that. If I mess it up the first time (and I usually do), it's easier to redo than the Durham's putty. I think the foam can be painted grey and detailed to look old, so I'll try that.