I've read what I can find here on steel benchwork, but the comments are all a few years old, so I decided not to restart an old thread.
I'm planning an L-shaped layout, nine feet by seven and a half feet. The tabletop will be thirty inches. I know, that's a little deep, but I think it will work.
I'm planning on using single beams for the outer edge: two nine-footers, a seven-and-a-half footer, and a five footer. But how far apart should the joists be? I'm thinking eighteen-inch centers on the long part of the L, and fifteen-inch centers on the short part.
Is that too long, too short, or does it matter?
Thank you.
ah, steel benchwork. But I'd still suggest 15 or 16 inch cross beams is good for risers.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
What is the top? Is it flat or will you use cookie cutter with risers?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I'd stick with 16" centers, that works out with any type of sheet material you'll be useing for the top.
Maybe I didn't read your post right, but, what kind of steel? Like steel studs? used for framing walls?
Mike.
My You Tube
I'm curious why you'd want to use steel beams when you could use wood, which offers numerous ways to create solid support and is much easier to connect cross members and vertical support for roadbeds, using nails or screws, or even glue.
What are you planning to use to support the I-beams, and how do you plan to make connections with non-steel material?I used welded-together steel angle iron to make support brackets for my layout's partial upper level, and used lag bolts to secure them to the 2"x6" wall studs. The benchwork for the partial upper level is also secured to the wall studs using screws, but there's no need at all to fasten the wooden benchwork to the steel support brackets.
A couple of photos...
...this one is installed at one of the 10 corners in the layout room...
...and again, no need to attach anything to the support brackets.
Wayne
mbinsewi I'd stick with 16" centers, that works out with any type of sheet material you'll be useing for the top. Maybe I didn't read your post right, but, what kind of steel? Like steel studs? used for framing walls? Mike.
Right, the steel studs used for framing walls and hanging drywall.
For right now, I'll use plywood as the tabletop, reusing the wood from my existing, temporary layout.
mbinsewiMaybe I didn't read your post right, but, what kind of steel? Like steel studs? used for framing walls?
This is a very important question that needs to be answered. Steel studs on the horizontal are a non-starter.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
BATMANSteel studs on the horizontal are a non-starter.
.....Because? I know I've seen articles on steel benchwork.
An old thread in which Randy Rinker was considering it.
BigDaddy BATMAN Steel studs on the horizontal are a non-starter. .....Because? I know I've seen articles on steel benchwork. An old thread in which Randy Rinker was considering it.
BATMAN Steel studs on the horizontal are a non-starter.
Steel studs on the horizontal cannot take any weight unless there is a whole lot of bracing to the point that it makes them impracticable. If the bench width was 2' then they would probably be fine, more than that and they will bend and twist.
Given the dimensions given to us, he would likely have to climb up on it and it would collapse under the weight. I have built things out of steel studs and they are great for a lot of things. 2' x 8' module would work but bracing would need to be top and bottom.
Our neighbour built a patio cover using steel studs on the horizontal and it collapsed into a mangled mess with the first decent snow we had.
I did use one on my layout.
Thanks, if I hadn't asked I wouldn't have known.
I've seen it done, and it does work. But it is not as strong as wood and you need really good self-drilling screws if you want to stay sane.
They are designed to replace 2x4 studs in wall construction, which are meant to be installed vertically. They do well in that respect, but they cannot support loads the same way wooden studs can.
It's incredibly rigid when assembled into a structure, but you should approach crossmembers in the same fashion as you would with wood. Wood just offers a lot more flexible methods of fastening.
It is also hard to drive a wood screw into another screw, so you have to avoid the screws which hold the steel studs together.
We won't know just what the OP is using until he chimes in and tells us.
Maybe it's not steel studs, maybe it's angle iron, or small channel, we'll have to wait and see.
Steel studs are fragile and can collapse until the drywall is properly attached on both sides.
Without drywall sheets, and on the horizontal... NO!
They also transmit sound very loudly.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Scroll back up! The OP did answer my question about steel studs, eveidently, he was still being moderated, and his post just went though.
Now he'll have a chance to read all of the replies to steel studs.
If you can manage using square tube steel or angles, it does look good. For my temporary bench, I used 1 inch square tubes spanning 6' long with perpendicular pieces every 16 inches. I welded all the connections and then plywood top is screwed down.
Why the trouble and not use wood? Wood is less efficient It takes 2x4's which leaves less room for storage beneath. It just so happened my storage crates and tools needed enough clearance for 2 levels and a reasonable bench height. Additinally the slim profile of steel just looks nicer and sort of disappears visually.
Im assuming we're talking about angles, channels and tubes because basic framing material won't really work here. Good for walls and maybe a kitchen island thats clad with rigid material but not meant for an open framed object
But for all practical purposes, most people will use wood. It's readily available, easy to work with and requires less specialized tools.
mbinsewi Scroll back up! The OP did answer my question about steel studs, eveidently, he was still being moderated, and his post just went though. Now he'll have a chance to read all of the replies to steel studs. Mike.
I have been reminded that I should close this thread out.
Yes, I have now read all the replies. I have also visited a big-box store and looked at the material I was considering using: it is flimsier than I thought. As stated above, it won't work in this application.
Thank you, all, for your advice.