I used Lexel clear silicone, and is has held up very well, no yellowing.
Most hardware and building supply stores carry, I think Wal Mart does too.
Mike.
My You Tube
I tried the clear DAP and it worked pretty good. It took a good week+ for the deeper areas to cure out clear but I think I will continue to use this method for smaller areas. I have some Modpodge so I will try that to.
Andy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Milwaukee native modeling the Milwaukee Road in 1950's Milwaukee.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/196857529@N03/
Rob Spangler recommended gloss Modpodge. I tried it and it works well.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I bought a small tube (didn't have to buy a whole caulking gun size tube) of clear Lexel for a waterfall. It remains flexable so it can be shaped to the layout even after it dries. Did a little dry brushing and it looked pretty good even though the surounding area was not fully scenicked. Sold the layout before any pictures were taken.
Think it could be used like WS Water Effects too.
Good luck,
Richard
the DAP alex plus with silicone dried clear on my layout, it was white when wet / not cured. i didn't notice any yellowing in the last eight years ... but it does cure with a bit of flexibility, is this what you want ?? it's not totally rigid ??
The DAP Alex Plus with Silicone dries clear and glossy, but somewhat yellow-tinged, or did last time I used it. Otherwise, I think it should work. I prefer to use two-part finishing epoxies, but I paint the bottom of the 'vessel' that will hold either water product black. This helps with reflections of the surrounds, most notably a blue sky or the backdrop It makes the puddles pop.
Take a small piece of foam or something else and give it a try. Go do a search on Youtube for videos using caulk for water features, I have seen them in the past showing how to use caulk for waterfalls and running water and the results were pretty good.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Some use clear gloss water based polyurethane too. Most use combinations. Using the best of each for different situations
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I use Epoxy since my waterbodies are to mimic lakes and ponds.
For what you need, DAP clear acrylic might work:
https://www.mylargescale.com/threads/dap-ultra-clear-and-waterfalls.23833/
As I've been laying track this past year I've noted that the clear DAP I use dries to a nice sort of opaque, semi-gloss sheen. This has me wondering if small water features like standing pools of water between yard tracks or small drainage ditches can be modeled using the same caulk?
I would rather use this than mixing batches of resin and dealing with the exposures to the products of the curing process.
Caulk obviously won't work for larger features but has anyone tried this on smaller things like little creek beds or single-barrel box culverts?