Hello All,
to the forums.
Your first few posts will be moderated which will cause a delay in viewing.
After years of critiquing and providing alternate track plans, I have come to realize the power of this statement...
"A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception." - -John Allen, "The Wizzard Of Monterey"; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
With this in mind, committing to a "final" track plan can be difficult.
As many great folks on these forums will attest, "No pike is ever 'completed'."
flyboy14295Again, all of this with the thought that I could get up and running with a loop, and build this out as time goes.
With that in mind, I suggest simplifying the "spaghetti" section of turnouts in the upper middle of your track plan.
I would avoid crossovers as they can be points of frustration.
flyboy14295I also decided to add a mainline...this would be more exciting.
You might consider opening up the radii of your mainline (outside) curves since you have the real estate.
Consider the inner loop as a shortline that requires more switching.
With this running in mind, you don't need as many crossover points from the main line to the short line.
Regarding the crossover section at the bottom of the plan; when the radii of the mainline curves are relaxed, the turnouts can be increased to a #6, which will allow for a smoother transition from the main line to the shortline.
Yards tend to be conveniently placed on the outer edges of model pikes.
This enables easy access to things like building trains and adding/removing units from the track.
Consider moving the yard to one edge of the pike.
Even better- -on the bottom edge of your track plan make two (2) yards in the open spaces.
Then the main becomes the connecting track and limits on movements between the two (2) yards becomes another element of running.
On your final plan, you note two (2) industries, with a scenic divider.
Are these industries connected or separate?
Connecting these two industries enhances the short-line possibilities.
Towns were typically set along the mainline.
Having a town on a dead-end spur is not typical.
Consider eliminating that section for now.
The spur in the inner side of the upper right-hand side has not been identified.
By eliminating this section- -it also eliminates the crossover (see comments above).
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Forgive me for being new, my posts are taking some time to get approved.
I've made a new plan with some of the modifications mentioned. The setup will be in my basement out in the open. I'm an average 6 foot tall guy(and pretty young), so reaching 2.5 feet into the middle of a layout isn't much of an issue for me.
I've heeded all of your advice and opened up the radii, not realizing that a 15" would really hamper things. Also closed the slew down from what essentially was an 18" run. Making a 5x9 is no matter, I am going to be making the benchwork from scratch anyways.
I also decided to add a mainline, because with my fascination of signals, along with their cool double head aspects, this would be more exciting. Again, all of this with the thought that I could get up and running with a loop, and build this out as time goes.
27" outside, 24" inside, and a minimum 18" on all industry.
Thank you everyone for your advice.
The plan is good if you like to model buildings, but the 15" radius will be limiting. Most steamers and passenger cars will struggle with tight curves, unless you like old time era equipment or small switchers and short cars.
Simon
Flyboy: Where is the current plan to be located? Do you have room on all 4 sides of it; whether 4x8 or 5x9? If so, you might look at doing an 'around the walls' type as that would get you bigger radii, longer yard tracks along with longer loop runs. I have found that a lot of people have included some sort or draw bridge to get into the inside of it and those have worked out good. Don't know your age or physical ability, so think future stuff and try not to have some sort of duck-under if you can help it. With an around the walls type, keep reach-in to something reasonable. I use 28" as I don't have to stand on tippy-toes to reach stuff near the rear. Of course, I am height challenged, you might be that 7ft guy.
Later
Todd Hackett
Libby, Montana 59923
I take only pictures then leave footprints on railroad property that I know is not mine, although I treat it as such...
I'm inclined to agree with PennsyLou about the 5 x 9 but in any case consider replacing the outside straights with VERY big radius curves from flexi track. The slewing may only be an inch or so but it will be enough to avoid a totally geometric look about your trackwork... it is something I wish I had done for my own track at the front of my layout.
Cheers from Australia
Trevor
Editor and Publisher
Railway Modeller Australia
I would move the depot yard ladder track switch to where the industry track switch is, to make the yard tracks longer. Industry switches can be moved most anywhere.
Thanks for the reply!
Modeling "larger" isn't an issue as I'm going to build a bench for it. It's going in a large unfinished basement(or a bedroom should the CFO let me) so space isn't an issue. Longer runs would also allow me to have larger blocks for my signalling and possibly a dedicated passing track for freight. Funny that you mention the view block, the original MRR plan called for one. It would be a good test of my artistic ability!
I hope to start with the big loop and staging and then build from there. It allows me to get started and then build into the center.
The plan is a pretty good one, a lot depends on your objectives and it seems to meet the ones that you stated above. Consider expanding it to 5 x 9 (Ping-Pong table size) which would allow to go increase the curves to 24" minimum radius, which in turn will open up a lot more possibilities for engines and rolling stock. Scenically, a view block down the center of the layout would be helpful. Considering that signaling is important to you, think about how different operating scenarios might justify the operating signals, i.e. having a junction or crossing, long passing siding, etc.
Hello all.
I come to you as a newbie to the MRR forum. I am getting back into the hobby after my father introduced me to it with a basement O scale model. I have a decent bit of HO track and train and I would like to use that as my base to jump off of. I am interested in some switching and yard operations, but also want a loop to just watch the trains run. I also would really like to deep dive into the signal system that I am going to install, ABS and prototype modern signals are a must for me. I have recreated a plan in SCARM that I found in the database and would like some input!
My plan is to run a Digitrax Zephyr for the trains, and a more analog Atlas all-scales system with control board for my signals and block detection. I am much more of a tactile person, and I'd much rather have a physical speed wheel and console to run from, along with a switch panel and LED indication, vs. something like a JMRI system.
Let me know what you think! This was designed for a 4x8.