You have to install the track as you assemble the helix. Essentially, you assemble the bottom loop of the helix, then lay the track around the bottom loop. Assemble the next loop, then lay the track on the new loop. Keep this up until the entire helix is assembled. You can attach the track using adhesive caulk or other appropriate glue. I built two helix structures this way and they both run nicely.
Hornblower
When I attached my flex to my Proses helix I used some canopy glue . Ran a bead down the center track line. Then clamped the track down using spring clothes pins. Once dry remove the clamps and continue up the helix. Has survived a year with no issues. --- Ken
I didn't use any base for the track - it was glued directly to the mfd I used for the helix surface.
The trains move slowly on my helix so no need for foam or cork to deaden any sound.
https://kaleyyard.wordpress.com/the-helix/
Trevor
Crossthedog, that plywood is called sandeply and it smooth and holds nails well I agree.
I ran to Home Depot yesterday witg a piece of track and looked for something to use. I sttled on #4 screws 1/2 inch long with #6 washers. So far it seems to work well. I drill holes between the ties and screw the track down just tight enough to hold it in place. Using a test car, the coupler trip pins dont catch on them as they are barely below the railhead but its working.
I'm with Wayne. Or if you have the vertical clearance, substitute the foam for cork.
I tried the WS foam roadbed and got undulations in the track where the foam compressed from weighting the track down while the glue dried. Since then it's been cork for me.
Pete.
santafejeffAfter each level is assembled, there is a 1/16" foam layer that goes down, then the track should go on top of that. I am using code 83 flex track and was told this wouldnt be an issue however, the foam covers the mdf so using an adhesive isnt going to work.
I 'd guess that with a helix, it might depend on how far you've progressed. If there's ample room in which to work, I'd drill holes, slightly smaller than the diameter of the track nails that you intend to use, then it shouldn't take too much effort to push the track nails into the mdf.An alternative option would be to eschew the foam and instead put down the track using contact cement.When doing so, I always put down waxed paper atop the almost dried contact cement, then simply pull it out of the way as the the track is pressed into place. I doubt that it would be overly noisy without that thin foam in place.
Wayne
santafejefftrack nails wont go into the mdf very easily.
Since this is a helix and out of sight, the wood screw sounds like a good idea if you can find one with a shallow enough head to stay out of the way of air hoses.
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
I have the Proses hobby 4.5 level 2 track helix kit. It is modular laser cut mdf and goes together quite easily but I have a question for those who have one.
How does the track get attached?
After each level is assembled, there is a 1/16" foam layer that goes down, then the track should go on top of that. I am using code 83 flex track and was told this wouldnt be an issue however, the foam covers the mdf so using an adhesive isnt going to work.
I was considering using #0 wood screws if I can find some long enough because track nails wont go into the mdf very easily.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated