This is a brass kmt R1325At some point somebody changed the drive shaftNow it only goes mostly straight. The shaft hits the fuel tank at a 28 inch radious. How can I rebuild the drive or repower so it can actually run? or is this a unit to be made into an unpowered version? My layout has 24" 22" and 20" as the majority of radious with some 18
Shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Hi there. Have you considered changing or thinning the tank reservoir?
Simon
On models like this, I replace the entire mechanism with Athearn.
EMD Mike has made some run good, but I do not even try.
Some older brass diesel bodies do look good, but they all run terrible.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I would replace that drive shaft with one from Hobbytown of Boston.
https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61
This is the Cadillac of all drive shafts!
Rick Jesionowski
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it looks like that drive shaft is just transmitting power from one truck to the other, right? So it's just a universal joint between the two trucks?
Looks to me like you can just take it out and have a loco that drives from one truck only. Won't it run that way? (maybe without pulling much). Then maybe replace the drive shaft with some plastic tubing?
Hobbytown now has a universal drive shaft that has sockets for a press fit on a 2MM shaft as well as the original kit for 3/32 shafts and a third kit with a mix of 2MM and 3/32 sockets.
Ron High
There is a large group on Groups.io that is dedicated to repower and regearing a very helpful bunch of people you should consider joining. No cost and lots of help!
RepowerAndRegear@groups.io
https://hobbytownofboston.com/
The Hobbytown components are excellent, but they are also likely to hit the sides of the reservoir. Removing the U-joint altogether, as suggested by JPG is worth a try. I doubt that flexible tubing would work given the length and the extent of the torsion.
I tried removing the shaft and worm gears. Ran like it was pulling a lead sled Maybe a frame and guts from a p2k gp20?
I suppose that means the unpowered truck is not free-rolling and is providing drag. You could take it a part and lubricate it, maybe remove some gears or something, or you could replace it entirely. Or you could head down another path entirely. Maybe it's got peanut butter grease for lubrication? I would expect some hit to pulling power, but if it runs slower with no load without the U-joint then that other truck is providing resistance, and that you should fix in any event.
NVSRRMaybe a frame and guts from a p2k gp20?
I would ue an Athearn GP-9, but that sould work fine.
adding a universal joint in the very middle might make the shaft take tighter radius curves