ChrisVAI got this Durango Press car
ChrisVA the mine trestle.
ChrisVAI was thinking of painting it first: gray primer, then mostly black/metal, then assemble with CA/hot stuff per the instructions.
I would prime it in flat black, then drybrush the lighter colors.
ChrisVAShould I paint it first, then assemble?
No, I would assemble it first. No doubt about it.
ChrisVAUse CA/hot stuff per the instructions or something else?
I prefer Loctite Gel Control Super Glue for these types of models.
ChrisVAHow to hold the small pieces together while using CA without it smearing all over the place?
Position the model so gravity hold it together while the glue sets up. Glue on one piece at a time. Loctite Gel Control Super Glue takes about 5 minutes to set after each piece. Use just a little to avoid smear.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I got this Durango Press car, now I want to paint and assemble it and add to the mine trestle.
I was thinking of painting it first: gray primer, then mostly black/metal, then assemble with CA/hot stuff per the instructions.
Should I paint it first, then assemble?
Use CA/hot stuff per the instructions or something else?How to hold the small pieces together while using CA without it smearing all over the place?Thanks!
While looking for something else I found a relevant article the OP might want to locate and read
"Install Lightweight Liftout Panels" by Bob Werre in the March 2010 Model Railroader, page 58.
Dave Nelson
MisterBeasley My advice is to wait. As you develop more of a layout, plans will change. Small changes of a couple of inches in your overall design might require adjustments to your track plan or slight relocation of buildings.
My advice is to wait. As you develop more of a layout, plans will change. Small changes of a couple of inches in your overall design might require adjustments to your track plan or slight relocation of buildings.
I agree! If you have a more "finished" concept and not a module, you're able to have concrete plans. If you want to secure the structures, you could use double-sided tape. Cut the pieces into narrow strips and anything visible can get covered with ground foam.
Don't give up on good old white glue. All my modules are glued with it. From foam to wood frame, painted earth colored before structure placement. The structures are removable to facilitate transportation. Roadbed and track goes down next. Then scenery. My modules are still holding up great after fifteen years and most of them going to train shows.
Pete.
Hello All,
Many of the mining structures here in Colorado were set on stone or concrete foundations, depending on the age.
For the foundation of my kitbashed Walthers HO Northern Light & Power Powerhouse, I used a wood frame and covered it in strips of Chooch Flexible Cut Stone Wall- -Small Stone.
The Cut Stone Wall strips are slightly taller than the wooden frame so the structure sits within the foundation.
Gravity holds it in place.
In some situations, the area between the mining structures had bare earth while others had gravel or concrete pads.
Again, a framework could contain or border these areas modeled as timbers or cribbing.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
What I might suggest is build the structure, and a foundation that it can sit on. It would be that foundation that, if you feel it is important, would be affixed to the foam core board with clear adhesive caulk (I'd suggest Gator board for its greater structural strength). A slightly tacky adhesive, or just random bits of adhesive caulk, could permit the structure to sit safely on that foundation but you would have committted yourself to nothing if layout plans, and layout topography, change. You might build a new foundation for it when the time comes.
My general watchword for ambitious projects is, make as many decisions reversible as possible.
First lay out your track, caulk in in place with clear acylic caulk, when dry paint your track. Next use painters tape on the track and then do your dirt.
I set the cork roadbed on foamboard using caulk, making sure the caulk was foam compatible. Some caulks will start melting foamboard. I used track nails to attach flex-track. If your purpose is to build a diorama to add to a future layout, why wait?
Well, I built my roundhouse/turntable set up to be moved when the time comes. The photos are pretty self-explanatory. If you want to move a scene as a whole, I think it is doable. I dropped mine into place taped the crack and put down groundcover. So far so good. When/if I move it, I just find the tape and pull it up and lift out the panel. Ground repair will need to be made once it is in its new home, but that is no big deal.
While I was building the RH I would put it on and off the layout so I could play with it. My layout gets built at glacial speed.
I can't remember what I used to stick the RH down with, but it was probably caulk, I use that stuff everywhere as it makes removing things easy.
For the ground cover, I paint on white glue, sprinkle the ground cover, and then spray lightly with a glue water mix. I have been using tile grout more often as a ground cover because I find even my finely sifted dirt was just too coarse to look good. I just use leftover grout and thin-set from the endless renovations and paint it with the airbrush to the appropriate colour.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
MisterBeasleyMy advice is to wait. As you develop more of a layout, plans will change. Small changes of a couple of inches in your overall design might require adjustments to your track plan or slight relocation of buildings.
I agree with Mr. B.
You'll likely get more structures and eventually a track plan, and it's better to have a collection of structures (or scenic ideas) that might enhance the single scene that you're currently experimenting with. A flat ground surface is useful for some structures, but an irregular surface is sometimes not only more prototypical, but also more interesting, which can, in turn, lead to more interesting terrain for your trackplan, too.
Wayne
This outfit says they have it in stock (4 units) - maybe you want to call them to make sure you get it before someone buys them out from under you Durango Press 43 - 18" Gauge Mine Car - HO Scale Kit - Midwest Model Railroad (midwestmodelrr.com)
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I recently built AMB's Martinsurg Mine structures. I want to attach the buildings and track to some foam board and later "drop it in" to a future layout as a module, when I have enough space.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rUwW2jIl-rhU7Td1vUXxQRf_1KR1G4uy/view?usp=sharing
I wanted to get suggestion/ideas foow to affix structure to the foam board? What adhesive to use?
How to affix the track to the foam board? (I will be using flex track code 70) Clear caulk?
The "order" in which to attach things to the board, i.e. ground cover first, or structure first, then add ground cover? I have some finely sifted real dirt I want to use, but I don't know if I should put that down first and attach building to that, or just attach buildings and then apply dirt?
If I attach strutures first, how to attach ground cover and get it into all of the "nooks and crannies" without making a mess and getting on buildings.
Also, I'm thinking of putting some code 40 rail on the trestle and then maybe putting a Durango press coal coar on the "track". However, I can't seem to find a Durango press coal car, they are out of stock everywhere. Any links to one of those appreciated.
Anyway, suggestions appreciated for building a cool diorama from these components!
Thanks!
I