What is this 4'x8'x3/4" sheet of material

[richhotrain]

Keep us posted on your progress, Tom.

Rich

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Thanks all for your inputs and sharing your experience and thoughts.

I have a solution now!

Tom

[richhotrain]

The 1/2" Sande plywood would be perfect for your layout. On my layout, I support the 1/2" plywood on all of the edges with 2x4s, and interior supports with 2x4s every 24".

Rich

[NorthsideChi]

Sande plywood is great.  It works really well in basements too because it stands up to damp environments and stays flat.  

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Oops. Meant Sande ply.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Tom Bryant_MR

Thank you ndbprr and Rich. I'm close to Jarrell. I'll give them a call. Really makes good sense. Errors early on tend to get worse as work progresses.

Tom

Checked in Jarrell w/Danek hardware. No cabinet grade ply. He suggested using better quality at HD.

So, here are the "hardwood" plus available. I believe I can go with half inch birch ply as there will be 1x4x.5 joists every 2 feet.

Am I on the right track now?  Thoughts appreciated.

Thank you all!

[maxman]

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

That is not Homasote, that is partical board with white melamine.

Not at my local Home Depot it wasn't.

I looked at it and it was same as homasote.  Possibly it was mislabled.

 

See also:

http://www.homasote.com/assets/files/catalogs/440_brochure.pdf

 

[NorthsideChi]

Melamine board is intended as a finished shelf material 

It is a cleanable, so it's less accepting of paints and glues. Therefore it is a material not well suited as a substrate for model railroad layouts 

Pressboard interior is also not designed for long spans. It will bow even under minor load.  That is why shelves are typically limited spans in cabinets and have brackets when used in closets. 

I have so much of this stuff leftover in the basement in case one of the apartments in my building needs a shelf repaired.  Would not consider using it in this hobby for horizontal surfaces. 

I've said this in another thread.  I recommend taking layout tables and bench work seriously.  It's crucial to have a sturdy and workable surface.  It may cost $25 more a sheet for plywood these days, but you'll look back 5 years from now and realize what a thoughtful investment it was.  

[EMDSD40]

Back in 1980 built my first layout with five sheets of this stuff. Don't remember the price back then. Laid it over the top of a very well built 2x4 frame setting on a carpeted basement concrete floor. I probably could have parked a car on it. I do remember bending a lot of nails when putting down cork roadbed and track. This stuff was hard, and I think moisture could be a problem also. Room was heated and had AC so that was not an issue. Would suggest plywood instead of this stuff. Choose wisely.

[doctorwayne]

I used 3/4" fir-ply, good-one-side for the main level of my layout, but the majority of it was cut into 2" wide curves of varying radii, as sub-roadbed for track.  The radii varied from a minimum of 30" up to 48", with most of it on risers screwed to the 1"x4" open grid which supported everything.

When I finally got around to adding a long-planned partial upper level, I opted for 5/8" t&g fir-ply sheathing, cut into widths mostly matching that of the open grid framework, made with 1"x2" and 1"x4" clear pine.  Using the t&g allowed me to use fewer sheets due to the varying depths of the layout, with almost no waste. 
The t&g eliminates the chance of scenicing materials, especially water, glue, and plaster, from leaking through the joints between the plywood sheets, and onto the main level of the layout below.

I buy both plywood, Masonite, and clear pine for layout use from a nearby lumber yard, but also bought all of the various wood materials, to build my own house,  from them, too.

I am not a fan of big-box lumber suppliers.

Wayne

[dknelson]

gmpullman

That looks like the "Particle Board" I'm familiar with. This stuff is coated (laminated) both sides with white melamine which would make is suitable for shelving and/or cabinet building.

I used it as intended: for shelves in my basement, holding heavy railroad books, Trains, Railroad/Railfan and other magazines, and lots of slide carousels.  Over the years just about every shelf has developed a pronounced "dip" between the shelf brackets.  I had to use very strong brackets because particle board is heavy.

I screwed each shelf to its bracket just to avoid disaster and particle board is no picnic to drill into or screw into.  I also know that in half inch thickness, without the melamine, it is prone to cracking off if stressed.  It has its uses, but as others have chimed in, not the OP's use.

Dave Nelson

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Thank you ndbprr and Rich. I'm close to Jarrell. I'll give them a call. Really makes good sense. Errors early on tend to get worse as work progresses.

Tom

[richhotrain]

Tom Bryant_MR

I'll peek at the 1/2" plywood next time I'm in Lowes or Home Depot. I don't need an exorbitant amount - probably 2-3 sheets. Just wild paying $50+ for a sheet.

Thanks

Tom  

Cabinet grade plywood may cost a bit more than that. But, look at it this way. You need two or three sheets. That may cost $150 to $200 total, but the quality of the surface is one of the most important considerations in layout building. 

Rich

[richhotrain]

I really dislike big box store plywood.

Tom, do yourself a favor and call Danek Hardware & Lumber in Jarrell and ask for the price of 1/2" thick cabinet grade plywood in 4' x 8' sheets. I used 1/2" cabinet grade plywood on my most recent layout and it cannot be beat. Very strong, perfectly smooth, takes moisture well, no warping. Ideal for layout surfaces.

Rich

[ndbprr]

If it helps I have started to use old flat panel interior doors for modules. I get them for free by checking ebay frequently.  I now have a lifetime supply.  They are the equivalent of an I beam construction with the two exterior panels. They don't need much support and are already brown.  The one disadvantage is the thickness for installing switch motors.  I also use flooring underlayment foam for my track substrate to deaden noise.  Cheap, sturdy, and relatively light weight.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

So, I looked online @ Home Depot. Is this more inline with what has been suggested using plywood?

Thanks, Tom

 

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

maxman

Is it your plan to affix roadbed/track directly to this material?  Or is your plan to use this material to support another layer of "something" to which you will affix roadbed/track?

For a long time the traditional method was to use plywood as the support layer, and the "something" material was called Homasote.

The local Home Depot near me has this product.  Sometimes they have it labeled as Homasote, and sometimes they have it labeled as soundboard.

 

 

That is not Homasote, that is partical board with white melamine.

Sheldon

[maxman]

Is it your plan to affix roadbed/track directly to this material?  Or is your plan to use this material to support another layer of "something" to which you will affix roadbed/track?

For a long time the traditional method was to use plywood as the support layer, and the "something" material was called Homasote.

The local Home Depot near me has this product.  Sometimes they have it labeled as Homasote, and sometimes they have it labeled as soundboard.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Wow. Glad I asked!

I'll peek at the 1/2" plywood next time I'm in Lowes or Home Depot. I don't need an exorbitant amount - probably 2-3 sheets. Just wild paying $50+ for a sheet.

Thanks

Tom

 

 

Thanks all. I knew you all would steer me right

[wrench567]

  I wouldn't use that at all. For a shelf layout you can get away with plywood as thin as 1/4 inch by glueing and screwing a one by two on edge between the shelf brackets but half inch or five eighths would be better.

   Pete.

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

Not something you want to build a layout on - trust me!

Sheldon

["JaBear"]

Gidday Tom, I have to be careful because the nomenclature between countries can vary, but that’s what I’d call “particle board”, and personally it would not be my layout bench top of choice.    

 

I suspect that you’ll get, mainly, recommendations to use plywood, the thickness will vary, but I am more than happy with 9mm MDF supported by a frame work of 3”x1” timber.

 

Cheers, the Bear.

[gmpullman]

That looks like the "Particle Board" I'm familiar with. This stuff is coated (laminated) both sides with white melamine which would make is suitable for shelving and/or cabinet building. It does NOT take edge fastening well at all.

MDF is different.  It is more like a paper product pressed into sheets. it does not like to get any moisture on it at all.

OSB is short hand for "Oriented Strand Board" and this stuff is often used for roof and outside wall sheathing. It is OK for model RR sub roadbed, just barely. I personally don't care for it but others seem to be OK with it.

Plywood I'm sure you're familiar with. Dozens of grades depending on number of plys, type of wood and adhesive. CDX grade is probably the lowest. Other furniture grade plywoods are excellent to work with. A-C used to be one of the most common, grade A (plugged and sanded) on one side with grade C on the other.

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/choosing-the-right-sheet-goods-for-your-next-woodworking-project/

 

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https://www.lowes.com/n/buying-guide/particle-board-buying-guide

 

 The stuff you're looking at has an extra inch in length and width (49 x 97). I guess this is because so much edge damage occurs it is just as easy to give you the extra inch or is it so you can cut four 12" shelves and allow for the saw kerf?

 

Good Luck, Ed

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Good evening all. Out shopping today for layout decking building materials. Of all the 4x8 materials this was the least cost (@ Lowes).

I'm not familiar with the shorthand on the label. Please help me understand.

Intention is a shelf layout on three walls and 2' deep.

Proposed layout.

 

 

Much appreciate the help

Tom