Has anyone used this three part system to weather items where you want a rusted look?
I bought the kit and ran a test on a scrap piece of styrene. I used various combinations of the base paint, primer and and iron paint and have figured out what to expect. What I haven't been able to find is if the primer step is to afford some protection from the activating solution (which contains acid and copper sulfate) or if it is just for coloration. The instructions call for two coats of it, but if I want some of the base color to come through that will be too much.
Does anyone know?
Rick
I'd not heard of this product before, but found a short video on its useage.
While it seems pretty simple, you could probably get similar results using flat model paint or oil-based pastel sticks to create the same effect.
Personally, I found the presenter to be of much more interest than the product.
I don't have much in the way of rust-bucket freight cars, but I often airbush a light coat of rust-colour on the interiors of gondolas and hoppers....
Even a black hopper...
...can have a rusted (but not rusted-out) interior...
Wayne
Call me lazy, but I use a combination of burnt umber and burnt sienna artist paint that I apply with a toothpick. I either put the paint on things in small cirlces of streakes. What my wife reminds me is def true of rust: less is more!
The advantage of this system is that it gives texture as well as color. I intend to use it on some of the cars in my steel mill. Here are pictures that inspired me to look into it:
I've used a product called Instant Rust which sounds about the same. It is a two-part product, first a thin paste of fine iron filings, and then a chemical agent that attacks the iron and rusts it. Mostly, I've used it over a flat rust-brown primer. You can thin the iron paste to let more of the original surface show through. I've never had a problem with the chemical rusting agent damaging the surface.
I usually use rust colored weathering powder to get a rust effect.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
FWIW the March issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine has a good article on rusting out the interior of a gondola that might be on interest as well.
@hbgatsf (rick)
Sorry I can not answer your question, I did not pay that close attention when messin with it. I would think that I followed the instructions at least for the first couple of times. Rust comes in many shades.
It is just one of many ''rust'' techniques I use.
In the first and second picture below, the ''load'' started out as a smooth piece of plastic. You can see the finished rough texture.
The below picture is sheet styrene
The below picture is resin I think, maybe Bar Mills.
The below picture is stainless steel.
It was used on the left Corrugated panel. The right panel was just heated/burnt with a hand torch.
PC101 @hbgatsf (rick) Sorry I can not answer your question, I did not pay that close attention when messin with it. I would think that I followed the instructions at least for the first couple of times. Rust comes in many shades. It is just one of many ''rust'' techniques I use. In the first and second picture below, the ''load'' started out as a smooth piece of plastic. You can see the finished rough texture.
Those pictures show the texture much better than the ones that I posted. Did you use a sealer on it after the MM?
As for my original question about the primer, I found this in the TDS:
Modern Masters – Metal Effects Primer (AM203) is a unique water-based acrylic primer. Unlike other primers, it is especially formulated to block Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions and Activators from reaching the metal, wood, or reactive substrate. This helps prevent the formation of rust or other oxidation products from forming under the paint film. Metal Effects Primer will also block out alkali salts, tannins, acid salts, or other unwanted contaminates from ‘bleeding through’ to the Metal Effects Iron Paint film and causing adverse reactions and unwanted color changes in the oxidized finish.
That leads me to believe that on styrene it would be used more for coloration than protection.
hbgatsf PC101 @hbgatsf (rick) Sorry I can not answer your question, I did not pay that close attention when messin with it. I would think that I followed the instructions at least for the first couple of times. Rust comes in many shades. It is just one of many ''rust'' techniques I use. In the first and second picture below, the ''load'' started out as a smooth piece of plastic. You can see the finished rough texture. Those pictures show the texture much better than the ones that I posted. Did you use a sealer on it after the MM? Rick
No sealer was used.
PC101, Bob
PC101 No sealer was used. PC101, Bob
That was my inclination. Here is what the TDS says:
Modern Masters – Metal Effects Permacoat Xtreme is an all-in-one water base, clear, non-yellowing, protective sealer and top coat designed to work over Metal Effects Rust Activated Iron Paint. This innovative clear coat chemically arrests the oxidized metal finish, minimizing any further corrosion and then self-crosslinks to create a weather resistant barrier. The application of Permacoat Xtreme is highly recommended over the Iron/Rust finish. Particularly on interior surfaces where there may be contact or exterior surfaces to prevent runoff of the rust finish caused by rain or sprinklers onto surrounding areas. Permacoat Xtreme can be brush , roll or spray applied.
My layout room doesn't have any moisture issues and these cars won't be handled (unless there is a derailment) so I am not going to worry about it.
Here are my results from using the MM rust system.
I started with the ingot buggies and molds since these would be the cars that would be the worst for wear. If I was to do it over again I would try making the buggies a little less rusty than the molds but I am OK with the way they turned out.
I learned a lot from doing these cars. When I tackle the slag cars and torpedo cars I will be able to be more discriminating and leave areas in a less rusted state.
hbgatsf Here are my results from using the MM rust system. I started with the ingot buggies and molds since these would be the cars that would be the worst for wear. If I was to do it over again I would try making the buggies a little less rusty than the molds but I am OK with the way they turned out. I learned a lot from doing these cars. When I tackle the slag cars and torpedo cars I will be able to be more discriminating and leave areas in a less rusted state. Rick
@hbgatst/Rick, I have not tried it but...Do you have any dry powders in a gray color? Maybe a light touch of powder on the Buggies will make them look less rusty.
PC101 , bob
That's one idea that I plan to try. I am also going to try a wash.
What is interesting is that I only put a small amount of the iron paint on the buggies. They came out very close to the molds where I had applied a heavier and second coat.
Very rusty steel coils going back to the mills as scrap. Could this really happen in real life, I don't know. But it is something different.