how do i cut lexan

[Anonymous]

Ok everyone whats the best method to cut 1/4" lexan into strips without melting the edges and having to do a lot of cleanup? My ideas so far are rotozip,cordless circular saw, or router with a 1/8" straight cut bit. Give me your tips and suggestions please.

[cacole]

I use a table saw with a carbide blade. Pu***he Lexan through the blade very slowly to avoid overheating and melting. I would not attempt to use a router or rotozip because they are all too fast and hard to control. The cordless circular saw may work if you can devise a good straightedge and have a carbide blade in it.

[Anonymous]

I made Lexan windshields for my old race car, and found that the roto-zip or dremel was way too fast and hard to control to not melt the edges. If you are cutting straight edges only, you can actually use a very sharp utility knife and eventually slice through. Tedious work, but you will see a result that is next to perfect.

Since windshields are not all straight edges, I had to come up with a way to make the curves as well. Place your sheet between two pieces of aluminum flashing then clamp and tape the whole thing together securely. The flashing will prevent splintering of the Lexan edge. Why not use plywood? Because you must use a metal cutting hacksaw blade and it will get clogged if you have to cut through plywood. Wood cutting blade teeth are simply too large and ruin your work. If you are cutting a small amount., go ahead and use your hand hacksaw, but if you have large amounts, you will want to get a variable-speed jig saw like http://images.lowes.com/product/039725/039725017932.jpg?wid=158&cvt=jpeg.
Run the saw slowly and do not force it in the Lexan. Replace the blade often, and make sure that it is kept free of aluminum swarf.

Hopefully this helps. Remember, my techniques were for an item much large than would be used for a scale model, so unless you are using Lexan as part of your benchwork, you will most likley have to modify my methods to suit the size of the end product your are looking for.

[jrbarney]

Virginia Toolbox Guy,
Another possibility might be a variable speed scroll saw, such as a Dremel Model 1680 which has a shop vacuum port, using a metal cutting blade. You didn't state how long a strip and you would probably need to rig a temporary fence to keep the cut straight. Just a thought.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[CBQ_Guy]

I used to cut some 1/4" Lexan on the job back in the early 1970's and we used a fine tooth blade in a circular saw.

[Anonymous]

Thanks everyone, have a friend with a large woodworking shop so will see if i can use his table saw, since he has larger tables than mine and it's easier to handle 4X8 sheets there. I guess i should of told everyone that what i was trying to do is make edges for the layout to keep stuff from falling. Thanks again.

[Leon Silverman]

I checked with Lowes': Lexan can be cut similarly to glass, except that you have to score it a little deeper with a utility knife. Once the score is made, the piece can be snapped off. No power tools needed, no goey mess.

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by toolbox_guy_va

Thanks everyone, have a friend with a large woodworking shop so will see if i can use his table saw, since he has larger tables than mine and it's easier to handle 4X8 sheets there. I guess i should of told everyone that what i was trying to do is make edges for the layout to keep stuff from falling. Thanks again.

Why not go with something thinner/cheaper?

I have a couple friends who used, IIRC, clear acetate or some such they picked up at Menards. It comes in various dimensions and thicknesses. Of course, if you have access to a plastics supplier the Lexan may be more economical than the Menard's stuff, but OTOH, the thinner stuff should be cheaper there, too.

The guys I referenced earlier took the higher up screws out of their fascia, stuffed a few inches of the clear plastic behind it, used the screw holes as a guide for drilling the hole through the plastic, and replaced the screws. Piece of cake.

For the joints, one guy just used 2" clear packing (Scotch) tape up, over and down the back of the joint. Of course, this isn't the best aesthetically, but it works and doesn't look completely terrible. The other guy used some sort of plastic (for paneling?) channel strip to dress up the top and align the sections of plastic. At the Mendota, IL Union RR Depot & Museum layout, they had some strips of aluminum about four inches long bent over with the edges rounded and slipped them over the top at each panel joint.

Hope some of this rambling is helpful to you.

[Anonymous]

I used to work at a place where we made all sorts of stuff out of acrylic and lexan. Things for the beauty shops (display cases) and casinos. We used a 80 tooth triple chip blade on the table saw, I have no idea where to find one (maybe it's called something else out of the plastics industry) if anyone knows I would love to get one. For finishing we used a torch with hydrogen and oxygen, it glosses up the raw edge to a nice finish. You should be able to use a propane torch, just practice on scrap first, all it takes is a well placed medium paced pass. For glueing it's a solvet, can't remember what but I could look it up if anyone has a need. You can use a router for cutting but you need to move quick, it took time to learn and only those who were proficent at the other jobs got an opputunity to use the router.

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, it' late and I really need sleep. I can clarify later if need be. Night all.


Chris

[topcopdoc]

For straight cuts in Lexan you can buy a tool in Home Depot or other hardware stores. Mine cost be less than a dollar. It looks like a flat piece of steel about 5" long with an angle on the top which has a chisel edge. Use a good straight edge and score a line. Turn the Lexan over and bend it until it snaps at the line. It cuts just like glass. A small block plane with the smallest exposure is good to finish any rough edges.