I make my panels from a plastc-coated white Masonite used for shower enclosures. I build a wood frame which matches my wood bench work, and bundle the wires and tie them securely. The panels attach with a couple of screws. I have small panels for sections of the layout rather than a large panel for the whole layout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
At my old club we used tags like these which allow you to write details on the tag itself. It is very helpful to be able to tell which wire goes to what when you are dealing with a bunch of wires of the same colour. They are tear resistant. I got them from Amazon.
When I built the panels for the club it seemed to make sense to have them hinged at the bottom so that when they were opened everything was easily reached. However, I don't think it makes a huge difference where the hinges are. It is more important IMHO to arrange the wiring so that the wires leading to the layout don't cross over the wires in the panel. In other words, if the hinges are at the bottom then the wiring leading to the layout should exit the control panel from the bottom. When the panel folds down, the wire exit point is closest to the layout.
Here is the back of one of the temporary panels. The LED indicators have not been installed yet. We used masonite initially until the wiring design and switch locations were finalized:
The tags shown above were not installed until after the panel was in place and had been tested. The temporary panels could be adjusted relatively easily if adjustments were made to the track plan, of which there were several. Another advantage of using temporary panels is that you will quickly identify any mistakes, of which there were a couple.
I used 3rd PlanIt to draw the track plan and glued it to the front of the temporary panels:
Once everything had been finalized the club used black plexiglass and tape for the permanent panels.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hello All,
crossthedogWhat are the odds?!!!
Sometimes you find the best tools in the oddest of places.
In the NMRA magazine there is a "Tool Junkie" column that highlights finds like this.
Noting aginst alpha-numeric coding, but as an old master electrician once told me...
"Ya don't have to 'read' a color!"
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnitAn eight (8) pack is available with the following colors on the same spool: Orange, Blue, Brown, Green, White, Black, Red, and Yellow, which corresponds to the NMRA color coding.
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
To make the track layout on my control panel, I used a product called Tape N Tell. It is designed to color code surgical instruments and is able to withstand the pressure and heat of an autoclave.
It is 1/4-inch wide and comes in a variety of colors, which can also be used to color-code layout wiring.
An eight (8) pack is available with the following colors on the same spool: Orange, Blue, Brown, Green, White, Black, Red, and Yellow, which corresponds to the NMRA color coding.
The control panel face is painted black. I used the white color to make the entire track diagram.
I could have used other colors to denote sidings and/or power blocks.
Mine is printed on paper from my CAD program. It is printed on legal size paper total 6 panels. My panel is 18" x 24".
I’m constantly making changes to my switch panel so I print it separately, 2 panels.I tack the drawings to the Aluminum base panel using rubber glue then sandwich it with the Plexiglas top panel.Lots of hole drilling.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
Mel (and others),
How did you print your track layout? Is it on paper, or is it printed on some kind of more solid material?
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
My panel is mounted almost vertically so that people don't swonk into it carrying bags of groceries in from the back of the car. Accordingly, it's hinged at the bottom; hingeing it at the top would be useless. I'll edit this and put in a photo when I get out of this Teams meeting (blah blah blah).
EDIT: Here's my panel.
I'm a little embarrassed to show this photo in this company; my construction skills are "tree-fort level" and my wiring is... well... the rats' nest behind this panel would drive most of you screaming into the tall grass. But it does what I need. -Matt
My control panel hinge is at the bottom and I used a nylon cord on each side to support it in the open position.I also used connectors on the wires so that I can remove the panel to work on it at my workbench, very handy for adding more goodies down the road.
My control panel is a single piece of Luan plywood and swings up for access underneath.
When in the down position it sits at a slight angle.
I framed it with quarter-round molding with the flat side inwards so small objects like uncoupling picks don't roll off.
Bottom hinged, like in the picture, brings the work closer to you.
I am going to build a control panel similar to this one that Paul has talked about several times:
peahrens My DCC HO layout panel is made per a MR article of early 2012.
My DCC HO layout panel is made per a MR article of early 2012.
I like the idea of having some room to set down throttles and to store some papers under it. In searching for panel ideas I have found examples of panels with the hinges mounted on the top so it swings up and on the bottom so that it swings down.
For those that have panels on hinges which way did you go? Was the decision based on a particular reason?
Rick