0.042 is pretty heavy for a Tortoise. I find 0.032 is sufficient for a Peco with the spring intact. However, that said maybe you need 0.042 for the depth you are working to. The point is that it would take a fair force to cut and that will heighten the chance of slipping and damaging the point. Myself, well I would use a direct mount Peco motor rather than the Tortoise.
bagal
gmpullman trainnut1250 I would use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to avoid the shock from the wire cutters This may not be a very good solution either. An awful lot of heat can build up quickly in the wire and possibly melt or distort the fragile throwbar. Just a word of caution. Good Luck, Ed
trainnut1250 I would use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to avoid the shock from the wire cutters
This may not be a very good solution either. An awful lot of heat can build up quickly in the wire and possibly melt or distort the fragile throwbar.
Just a word of caution.
Good Luck, Ed
Ed,
Yes that can be a problem. I usually cut partway and then let things cool before finishing the cut. Or as Mike suggested, remove the rod and cut at the bench (if possible).
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
trainnut1250I would use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to avoid the shock from the wire cutters
There are lots of variables here so I'll try and keep this succinct. Yes, I have experienced that issue with peco's own solenoid switch motor that mounts under the turnout. I was using code 100 switches – an earlier electrofrog design.
The issue I found was that when the throw bar is not laying on a flat surface (ie over the hole for the motor) any downward force will knock the tabs holding the point rails loose from the throw bar. The motor I was using required a pretty big hole for the motor to fit directly under the turnout and attach from below.
In your case, sounds to me like the considerable force necessary to cut piano wire with diagonals is breaking the turnout by moving it or snapping it when you cut it. I would use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel to avoid the shock from the wire cutters
I didn’t have any problems with the side mounted switch machines (these were all in staging so looks weren’t an issue). I don’t recommend the specific type of Peco solenoid motors I was using based on my experience described above. I’m sure others have different outcomes, but I wasn’t too happy with the situation.
I’m sure you can repair your turnouts with a copper circuit board throw bar but that is a lot of work on a new $45 turnout.
I'm not a switch machine user, but its my understanding that Peco makes switch machines that are compatible with their turnouts.
- Douglas
I've been trying to install a Peco #6 Unifrog turnout at a cross-over point for my mainlines. I'm using Tortoise switch motors with a .042 wire as the bed height is about 4 inches. Everything looks great until I snip the piano wire coming up from the switch machine. Each time I snip it, the tabs holding the point rails to the switch rod break and the turnout is rendered useless. I'm not contacting the switch when I snip the piano wire, but it seems like the slightest knock to the switch rod causes the small connector tabs holding the point rails to break.Is anyone else having this problem or experienced this? I'm about done with trying as I've broken 3 switches (at $45 a piece!). Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I've never had this happen before and would like to know if anyone else has experience this before I try contacting Peco to tell them their new switches stink.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.