My 18" Atlas Code 83 HO single track through truss bridge kit arrived today. The instructions recommend using a "plastic bonding adhesive such as Plastruct Plastic Weld". It seems I have to buy a new caulk or cement or other adhesive for every single thing I want to do on my layout. I don't really want to buy yet another jugga glue. Can I use the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement I already bought for styrene models? The bridge kit doesn't actually say anywhere on the box that it is made of styrene, but I'm assuming it is.
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
Yes.
rrebellYes.
It will work fine. The only downside is the Plastruct bottles tip over easy. At least for me
That's the beauty of being in the glue business. We have to keep so many different ones on hand that half of the time they dry up or evaporate before we need them again. So we buy new ones and repeat the process.
Jim
I just used the old style Testor's glue in the red tube, came out OK.
https://cs.trains.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/1000x0/__key/telligent-evolution-components-attachments/13-755-00-00-02-28-84-03/St.Paul-Route-Bridge-Patterson-River.bmp
(Sorry link is dead, it's the PC I'm using.)
I buy MEK (methyl-ethyl-ketone) and industrial-grade lacquer thinner in gallon cans, as both work well as bonding agents for styrene. In the long run, it's much cheaper than the made-for-model-work brands.
I use a piece of flexible metal tubing, (meant for sink hook-ups), to transfer the liquid from the can to the bottle with a brush-in-cap applicator: simply dip the tubing into the can, then place your thumb or finger over the top end, then lift out the tube and move it over and into the bottle, then remove the finger from the top, to allow the liquid to drain into the bottle. Repeat as necessary, until the bottle is filled. (I usually place the bottle to be filled on top of the can, so that there's little spillage when transferring the liquid from can to bottle.)
The bottle which I use was originally filled with Walthers Solvaset, meant for decal application. It has a brush-in-cap, with bristles that are not adversely affected by either type of styrene cement.Since it's a fairly tall bottle, I made a simple holder for it that prevents it from easily being knocked over, as the contents of a bottle of that size could do quite a bit of damage to your work surface and the items on it...
It's nothing more than a scrap of 2"x4", with a hole drilled through it using a spade-type bit that's almost big enough to accommodate the bottle, which, as you can see, is square. To allow the square bottle to fit into the round hole, I used a coarse file to make room for the bottle's corners.
While the MEK works very well with styrene plastic, it does evapourate quite rapidly, which is not a good thing if you're attempting to cement a large surface of styrene to other similar-sized items, as both surfaces should be wet when brought together. If you coat one surface, it will be dry before you've finished coating the second surface.
For items like that, lacquer thinner is a better option, as it is slower to evapourate, but just as strong as the MEK.Some years ago, most lacquer thinner was altered to remove a supposedly harmful ingredient, which left the thinner still capable of thinning lacquer-based paints, but rendered it useless as a cement for styrene.I don't know what that removed ingredient was, but I recently found a variety of lacquer thinner that is intended exclusively for thinning industrial maintenance coatings.What I got was direct from a Sherwin-Williams industrial distributor, not one of their paint stores. If you can find such an outlet in your area, the lacquer thinner is type K119, and it works well for cementing styrene, just like the older stuff used to do.
Wayne
Wayne, one reason I like that Tamiya bottle is that it's very low and squat, not likely to tip over. I've also seen some creative solutions like your bottle holder, some for holding a number of tall glue bottles and tubes. Also, I hear you about trying to apply cement to two large surfaces and getting a bond before the stuff dries. Good ideas here, guys. Thanks.
I'm seeing less MEK solvents sold in US stores, although is still used in small specialty solvents. For example, plastruct has one such that will work on acrylic but their cement in the white bottle won't. The phase out appears to cut down on ketone solvents sold as consumer products in the US. With the large cans, people will use way too much, espcially when it's fast drying and the differences between using a respirator or not are quite noticeable. The substitutes sold in stores I believe are Ethel acetate. I'm curious if anyone has tried to bond styrene pieces or acrylic. I know it won't work on 3D printed PLA as I've seen it mentioned on forums, but MEK solvents certainly will, but I usually settle for safety and superglue that stuff and paint over the mistakes
I've had good luck with it kitbashing hobby store bought bridges Matt.
These Atlas Warren truss bridges I'm still working on fused to Evergreen styrene.
The same Tamiya solvent used on micro-engineering girders and the guts of Kato truss bridges for these girder plate sisters. Too bad the bridge shoes I found look way too big and won't fly.
And these cut up Kato girders fused together well. Sometimes I need to buy bridges and cut them up to end up with the bridge I need.
I've been wanting to try Wayne's MEK solvent. I haven't found it yet but still keeping an eye open.
TF
Here's a LINK to Sherwin-Williams outlets in the U.S., although it doesn't appear to specify if they're paint outlets only, or also sell industrial products, too.
The place where I purchased mine may also sell paint, but it seems to be more of a distribution centre for industries or other businesses.The first time I visited there, I was asked for my reason for wanting to buy a gallon of MEK, and they seemed amused that I was using it to build plastic models. I also bought a gallon of laquer thinner, mainly to thin lacquer-based paints. When I got home, I tested it on a couple pieces of styrene, and realised that it's not the bastardised version that's offered nowadays, but appears to be very similar to the good stuff I used to buy at Canadian Tire.
I don't plan on buying more MEK once I use-up what's left, as the less volatile lacquer thinner will last longer and go further.When building plastic models, an open jar of MEK or lacquer thinner is not all that noticeable, scent-wise. However, for bigger projects or airbrushing lacquer-based paints, I always work with a fresh air input and an exhaust fan and filter in my paint shop, and I always wear a two-stage respirator.
Cut out two 3" squares if at least 1/2 plywood.
Cut two round holes, one to fit a MM jar, and an eliptical hole like a CA bottle. Glue the 2 pieces together. No more knocked over bottles
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I made a holding fixture for my glues/cements; problem solved.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR